Whits Resin Fails ! Is this money wasted?

Hi, something is a miss.

Previous: Rev.02 FLBuild Platform / Rev.03 FL Tank / Black (FLGPBK01) Resin - With this setup i can print my items just fine.
Current: New Rev.04 FLBuild Platform / New FL Rev.04 Tank / White (FLGPWH02) Resin - Print is not sticking to the Build Platform.

Item Printing - 3DHubs Marvin. Default setting for all parameters.

Yes the following has been done:
Mirrors Clean / Inspected
New Tank
New Base
New Resin
Correct settings in PreForm
Multiple locations of print tried.
Moved Fine Tuned (Z) down to max / up to max
I have also made sure the printing room is at the optimal temp for the resin before and during printing.

Versions up to date: PreForms : 2.9.0 updated today
Form 1+ Firmware : 1.40, this was done today ( its downgraded from a 1.44)

I feel i have just wasted a load of money on an order of 2 x White 1 X Castable 1 x Flex.
I am not even going to open the Flex / Cast if i am not confidant the White will not print something simple.

Any Advise?

I have been using the White V2 for several weeks (since it was first available), and have not had any issues with it. In fact, It is practically the only resin I use, now, since I do mostly large lithophanes.

Previously, I had some general platform issues - not sticking, sticking too much, etc. I finally found a process that works 100% of the time FOR ME - ymmv. Before each print, I clean the platform thoroughly with IPA - takes about a minute or less. I then sand the entire platform face with 320 git sandpaper (another 1 minute or less). Finally, I clean it again with IPA, to remove any sanding residue (30 seconds). With this investment of less that 2 and 1/2 minutes, I get prints that stick well to the platform, but are easy to remove.

Beyond that, if you have having issues with it not sticking, I suggest you check the flatness of the platform and check to see if it is out of parallel with the tray.

Thanks for the info. What process would you take to check the flatness?

Im thinking its not this as i can print with Black. but worth investigating.

So ive done two prints with white so far. One failed (my fault) and the other stuck so much that it actually broke slightly around the base (it was a no support test chess piece).
So I may employ twehrs method for parts.

Actually, there is the issue of being flat and the issue of being parallel to the PDMS.

For flatness, clean your platform thoroughly and place a straight edge across at different angles while back-lit. Look for gaps.

As to being parallel, you can run a test of thin parts in various positions and then measure the post-cured thicknesses. That will let you know whether you are getting more compression in some spots compared to others.

Look at this post.

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