Recommended Orientation for print

Just got my Form3 the other day. Tried to print something last night and it stuck to the tank.
I used the auto-orientation with mini supports. I just updated PreForm and now auto-orientation is much different, before it would give me different results depending on how I had the model rotated, now no matter what its always the same.
I do have another resin printer, so I’m not a total beginner, but my other printer has a small build platform and there was only 1 way to rotate it and have it fit.

I took some screen shots, maybe I could get some advice on what orientation to pick.

This was the print that failed, should I try something like that again with full raft?

This is what the update auto-orientation is giving me, I did change one thing, one models surface was facing down, so I flipped it.

Here is something I manually orientated. Uses more resin, and I’m worried the screw holes wont be perfectly round.

I know there is more forces required when its flat, but I think the holes will turn out better. I’m just afraid of it failing.
And I havent seen how much post-process is required, it may be hard to do on the inside, causing the case to not fit together.

Here is another flat one, again holes will probably turn out the best this way. But all the supports being on the surface might affect the visual fidelity, although it is relatively flat. Would it be easy to sand the supports to where they are unnoticeable?
I’m kind of aiming for this one, but again I’m worried about the forces causing it to fail, any suggestions?

I would actualy do the first orientation again, but with a full raft. I haven’t had good luck with the From 2, larger/broad part orientations with the mini rafts (though I would think that the "low-force nature of the Form 3 would make my problems moot). I think pic #1 is the best mix of cleanest cosmetic surface and mininum finishing. I’d also go with a 0.40mm touch-point size to aid in support removal.

Second choice is #3. As a rule, I ALWAYS drill/reem screw/pin/insert holes (FDM or SLA). It’s fast, and assures that there is no non-washed residual material that will cause problems. With my reem-rule, you don’t need to worry about the screw holes because of the off-axis orientation to the Z-axis (which is a valid consideration).

#4 and #5 are finishing nightmares (high support density because of large-area sections).

Lastly, if adhesion to the platform is a continuing problem after this next go-around… then you may need to adjust the z-axis down, to assure better adhesion. This is for certain a Form 2 thing… but I presume it also applies to the Form 3.

Cool man thanks, that was very helpful.
I’ll look into Z-height, didn’t realize that could be an option.

I would second using the 1st orientation but using a full raft. So much easier all-around dealing with full-raft prints. Cleaning the build platform is easier. The print job is more reliable. Removing the part from the supports is easier.