Hi!
I’ve got this print which I will do next, it consists of many cylinders, some hollow, some not.
Im planning to print this in three different prints, it doesnt feel good to fill up the buildplate like with all even if its possible in PreForm. But do you have any recommendation regarding rotation of cylinders like that? Some of them are set up with internal supports which will be a bit messy to clean out.
How would you rotate especially the longer cylinders?
For parts like these, I would generally rotate them 12º from vertical in both X and Y, add default supports with internal supports off. It’s hard to say exactly how it will print best with only a picture, but I would start with that approach.
That’s about what I would try as long as there are no internal overhangs.
I would also manually add a few more support tips at the very bottom. You can see that in the rightmost part, there are few supports on the bottom so it may wobble during printing.
The red marking isn’t necessarily accurate in indicating issues, you should be fine with what you have there. You may need some more supports on the smaller smooth cylinder though, looks like there’s not enough near the bottom. There’s also some better distribution of supports you could do if you do it manually. I usually like to make the spacing more even. Do a staggered line up the angled side and then a couple on the sides to keep it stable.
Thanks all! And in general, rotating a hollow cylinder with one closed side should be done with the opening facing upwards right? I will upload a screenshot of all three prints before starting them I think 
I uploaded my PreForm files here: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B21eOSeJjbALY0JHUkdGOFV3a2c?usp=sharing
Not asking you guys to adjust it for me but I’ll get a more clear picture of the situation with the files I guess
Started the largest print now, have to go over night, 6 hours, holding my thumbs
How did it come out?
Pretty good I would say, I got some splinters on the bottom parts of the cylinders where the supports was pretty dense and connected to the sharp edge, but nothing to bad I think. I’ve only water sanded the part roughly so far with 600 and 1200 grit paper, its good enough. Printing the rest of the parts now (3 hour print and 2 hour print) I hope that I’ll be able to deliver this tonight!
The design guide specifies 19 degrees as a minimum overhang angle so I might use that to have the bottom surface come out a bit more cleanly. I often orient hollow cylinders at 30 degree angles without internal supports and haven’t run into any issues.
This is the result that I delivered to the customer! Could have been sanded alot more but they were satisfied with this!
I do see a slight yellow tint in the clear print, can this be controlled with the time in the UV chamber?
Regards Patrik
These look great! The yellowing is a product of continuous UV exposure. Sun exposure will yellow a part similarly (although more slowly) than a UV chamber so it’s often best to UV cure anyhow to get proper mechanical properties. Some users opt to coat the parts in a UV resistant coating after printing to reduce yellowing, but this keeps you from being able to fully post-cure parts.
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