Nice styff bro, like it verry much!
Iām happy that you liked my work but are you going to help me please
Why it comes shrinking and not fitting
Ok you wonāt get any good results using cartable resinā¦ I use grey V3 and it fits perfect.
You can cast with regular investment like ego wireline, increasing temp 2Ā°/min until 900 Celsiusā¦ takes a while or you can use Sheravest Rp or whipmix resin vest which are specially developed for casting resin.
I Use shera
I virtually space about 0,05 mm between model and framework, fitting is good for me like this.
Thank you David for at least answering me and sure Iām going to try it but how about after printing how I wash it and curing please
I dip the parts for 5 min in the first bath, the agitate in the second for a few seconds.
For posturing I use the firebox, and run the standard program, 60Ā°C for 60 min.
Good luck with your prints
still no succes with casting formlabs castable resin. So stressful, already got orders, but we are facing this issue again and again. I already cured the resin for 24 hours using nail curing lamp, tried the lacquer method, use phosphate investment, whatās left now is the correct burnout cycle, since my casting house is just using a manual gas furnace. Iām planning to buy now my own oven just to save this business that I started, Do you think im on the correct path?
You might try making molds of your prints using the yellow silicon and then cast the wax from the molds. I have had success with this. I even use one of the standard resins fro printing and mold making. The casting resin seems a bit difficult. for you
Kathleen
Is that a liquid mold? Or the one that needs to be heated?
kristian1990
You must follow the Formlabs burnout cycle exactly. If buying your own burnout furnace is the only way to do this, then I think you should. Make sure that you have good ventilation to clear out the decomposed resin fumes.
I have no connection with Formlabs, but I have used a similar burnout cycle for years using traditional RP resins in industry.
Do not expect 100% yield of good parts, but most should be almost perfect.
I see lots of advice and opinions voiced on the forum concerning this topic. I am not saying that my suggested way is the only way - I am sure that there must be other ways. Some say they get good results and, I guess, that is the object of their advice. I do suggest that you try any procedure a number of times before giving up on it. I guess it is kinda like pancakes; the first batch you have to feed it to the dogs.
Bill Box
Kathleen
I just read about a new RTV that sets up quickly and has zero shrinkage. Look at http://www.castaldo.com/english/products_eg/lfi/lfi.html . It is called LiquaFastā¢ ICE.
I hated waiting 24 hours for conventional zero shrinkage RTV to set up. If you tried to hurry things along by heating it up, I always got significant shrinkage.
Bill Box
Bbox
Thanks bbox.
I just ordered bluecast, since i saw many positive results using it with just traditional powder and casting method.
Have you tried this brand of resin?
I will literally feed the formlabs resins to the dogs because its useless lol just kidding
Kristian
@kristian1990, I use the BlueCast, and am really happy with it. I was having very rough casts with the FL castable. I used the FL burnout schedule, and also started experimenting. I cured the resin for days. Occasionally I had a good cast, but couldnāt figure out what I had done differently. The BlueCast is pretty consistent, and requires no curing.
One warning with ALL castable resinsā¦donāt store them in the tray, or if you do, store them in the box, and check the tray for cracks before putting the tray on your printer. I also use a baby bottle warmer to warm the BlueCast, sand your build platform, and adjust your Z axis if you have any incomplete prints.
Iām also using the Castaldo ICE RTV. It works really nicely, but sets up more firmly than traditional moldmaking rubbers. I find that I have to create more vents than I would expect, but it sets up fast and doesnāt require a lot of equipment. I use this frame I bought at Rio Grande: https://www.riogrande.com/Product/castaldo-u-shaped-mold-frame-for-room-temperature-vulcanizing-compounds/701230
It comes in different thicknesses. I use it with this mold clamp and the wax injector: https://www.riogrande.com/Product/Rio-Mold-Clamp-2-12H/701115
Hi katkramer,
Really? Nice, bluecast might save my business.
Last option for rtv since its additional process, and it might cost me more. I will focus first on bluecast.
What you do is after every print you brought it back inside the bottle?
Kristian
Yes. Storing back in the bottle is recommended by BlueCast, but I also store my Castable V2 in a plastic paint container and the tray separately, in the box. I use something like this for storing the Formlabs resin.
The Castaldo ICE is pretty expensiveā¦maybe $60 US for a 1 kg kit? Iāve gotten better about measuring more accurately.
The only thing Iāve learned from my experiments with any resin is that more sprues work betterā¦I understand that better airflow results in cleaner casts. As Iāve added multiple sprues, the model seems to dissipate better and my results are better. I hope thatās helpful! Iāll PM you as well.
Noted kat.
Will just wait for my bluecast order.
Thanks,
Kristian
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Iām going to do more experiments with extra sprues and the Formlabs castable resin. If Iām creating a model to make an ICE mold with, I use the castable V2 resinā¦the BlueCast is more of a matte finish. Hopefully I didnāt mention that already in this thread!
Hi kat,
How are you? I saw you posting about bluecast using WD40 PTFE spray, may i know which kind? Dry lube?
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Hey there! I am actually NOT using any spray at the momentā¦itās actually out of laziness or forgetfulness, but I just keep investing and then realizing I didnāt spray. But it works fine with or without if youāre using BlueCast.
When I do use it, itās this one. https://www.wd40specialist.com/products/dry-lube/
Hey, are you printing with BlueCast? I saw that there were earlier posts from 2017 on thisā¦just curious how itās working for you.
Thank you @katkramer , some how I cant imagine investing something without putting some kind of stuff on it on it
Yup! I know. I used to use debubbleizer, too, but always forgot. I am using a vacuum assist casting setup, so perhaps thatās how I get away without using anything? I also saw that my earlier post said I was experimenting with more spruesā¦I have since debunked that theory. I cast some pieces last week with a single 2mm sprue. A recent class with Kate Wolf of wax tool fame helped me āthinkā about sprues differently. It also eliminated problems I was having with porosity.
Anybody else interested in a thread about sprues?