Casting jewellery


#282

Nice styff bro, like it verry much!


#283

I’m happy that you liked my work but are you going to help me please
Why it comes shrinking and not fitting


#284

Ok you won’t get any good results using cartable resin… I use grey V3 and it fits perfect.
You can cast with regular investment like ego wireline, increasing temp 2°/min until 900 Celsius… takes a while or you can use Sheravest Rp or whipmix resin vest which are specially developed for casting resin.
I Use shera
I virtually space about 0,05 mm between model and framework, fitting is good for me like this.


#285

Thank you David for at least answering me and sure I’m going to try it but how about after printing how I wash it and curing please


#286

I dip the parts for 5 min in the first bath, the agitate in the second for a few seconds.

For posturing I use the firebox, and run the standard program, 60°C for 60 min.

Good luck with your prints


#287

still no succes with casting formlabs castable resin. So stressful, already got orders, but we are facing this issue again and again. I already cured the resin for 24 hours using nail curing lamp, tried the lacquer method, use phosphate investment, what’s left now is the correct burnout cycle, since my casting house is just using a manual gas furnace. I’m planning to buy now my own oven just to save this business that I started, Do you think im on the correct path?


#288

You might try making molds of your prints using the yellow silicon and then cast the wax from the molds. I have had success with this. I even use one of the standard resins fro printing and mold making. The casting resin seems a bit difficult. for you

Kathleen


#289

Is that a liquid mold? Or the one that needs to be heated?


#290

kristian1990

You must follow the Formlabs burnout cycle exactly. If buying your own burnout furnace is the only way to do this, then I think you should. Make sure that you have good ventilation to clear out the decomposed resin fumes.

I have no connection with Formlabs, but I have used a similar burnout cycle for years using traditional RP resins in industry.

Do not expect 100% yield of good parts, but most should be almost perfect.

I see lots of advice and opinions voiced on the forum concerning this topic. I am not saying that my suggested way is the only way - I am sure that there must be other ways. Some say they get good results and, I guess, that is the object of their advice. I do suggest that you try any procedure a number of times before giving up on it. I guess it is kinda like pancakes; the first batch you have to feed it to the dogs.

Bill Box


#291

Kathleen

I just read about a new RTV that sets up quickly and has zero shrinkage. Look at http://www.castaldo.com/english/products_eg/lfi/lfi.html . It is called LiquaFast™ ICE.

I hated waiting 24 hours for conventional zero shrinkage RTV to set up. If you tried to hurry things along by heating it up, I always got significant shrinkage.

Bill Box


#292

Bbox

Thanks bbox.

I just ordered bluecast, since i saw many positive results using it with just traditional powder and casting method.

Have you tried this brand of resin?

I will literally feed the formlabs resins to the dogs because its useless lol just kidding

Kristian


#293

@kristian1990, I use the BlueCast, and am really happy with it. I was having very rough casts with the FL castable. I used the FL burnout schedule, and also started experimenting. I cured the resin for days. Occasionally I had a good cast, but couldn’t figure out what I had done differently. The BlueCast is pretty consistent, and requires no curing.

One warning with ALL castable resins…don’t store them in the tray, or if you do, store them in the box, and check the tray for cracks before putting the tray on your printer. I also use a baby bottle warmer to warm the BlueCast, sand your build platform, and adjust your Z axis if you have any incomplete prints.

I’m also using the Castaldo ICE RTV. It works really nicely, but sets up more firmly than traditional moldmaking rubbers. I find that I have to create more vents than I would expect, but it sets up fast and doesn’t require a lot of equipment. I use this frame I bought at Rio Grande: https://www.riogrande.com/Product/castaldo-u-shaped-mold-frame-for-room-temperature-vulcanizing-compounds/701230

It comes in different thicknesses. I use it with this mold clamp and the wax injector: https://www.riogrande.com/Product/Rio-Mold-Clamp-2-12H/701115


#294

Hi katkramer,

Really? Nice, bluecast might save my business.

Last option for rtv since its additional process, and it might cost me more. I will focus first on bluecast.

What you do is after every print you brought it back inside the bottle?

Kristian


#295

Yes. Storing back in the bottle is recommended by BlueCast, but I also store my Castable V2 in a plastic paint container and the tray separately, in the box. I use something like this for storing the Formlabs resin.

The Castaldo ICE is pretty expensive…maybe $60 US for a 1 kg kit? I’ve gotten better about measuring more accurately.

The only thing I’ve learned from my experiments with any resin is that more sprues work better…I understand that better airflow results in cleaner casts. As I’ve added multiple sprues, the model seems to dissipate better and my results are better. I hope that’s helpful! I’ll PM you as well.


#296

Noted kat.

Will just wait for my bluecast order.

Thanks,

Kristian


#297

I’m going to do more experiments with extra sprues and the Formlabs castable resin. If I’m creating a model to make an ICE mold with, I use the castable V2 resin…the BlueCast is more of a matte finish. Hopefully I didn’t mention that already in this thread!


#298

Hi kat,

How are you? I saw you posting about bluecast using WD40 PTFE spray, may i know which kind? Dry lube?


#299

Hey there! I am actually NOT using any spray at the moment…it’s actually out of laziness or forgetfulness, but I just keep investing and then realizing I didn’t spray. But it works fine with or without if you’re using BlueCast.

When I do use it, it’s this one. https://www.wd40specialist.com/products/dry-lube/

Hey, are you printing with BlueCast? I saw that there were earlier posts from 2017 on this…just curious how it’s working for you.


#300

Thank you @katkramer , some how I cant imagine investing something without putting some kind of stuff on it on it


#301

Yup! I know. I used to use debubbleizer, too, but always forgot. I am using a vacuum assist casting setup, so perhaps that’s how I get away without using anything? I also saw that my earlier post said I was experimenting with more sprues…I have since debunked that theory. I cast some pieces last week with a single 2mm sprue. A recent class with Kate Wolf of wax tool fame helped me “think” about sprues differently. It also eliminated problems I was having with porosity.

Anybody else interested in a thread about sprues?