What would cause the first few layers of the base to stick to the build platform, and the rest of the print to stay in the vat? Is it more of a support issue or would it be the platform height? I am almost tuned in, and can’t figure it out…thanks.
I think the material and a screenshot of the parts in preform would help diagnose the issue
It’s my first form printer, so I used most of the clear v4 testing / trial and error and all around learning after fixing the peel motor provided by support.
This is printing using the black v2/0.1mm setting with a platform height of .8 (lower)
Is it overcuring? I am just expierementing untill a new vat and resin arrive, now that ive learned my lesson its just easier to stay with form resin…
If mirrors are clean and pdms clear then the material is underexposed. Initial layers are exposed longer so the base sticks to the platform and the resin is harder in order to support the rest of the model which is marginally exposed (green state) so that it extends the life of the pdms and why post curing is required.
Also check the date of the resin and make sure it isn’t expired. FL suggest less than a year though I have some clear left that is still printing at a year and half out but you can notice a separation in the material in the tank and I just mix the @#$@#$ hell out of it prior to printing.
I mixed the resin up good, seeing as how it is a mix of clear v4 and a 3rd party neon green , i’m going to run a print on castable v2 with a thicker base thickness, watching the print it seems at a certain point the print is to high out of the resin after the start of a few layers into support… so my theory is, the resin will cure and a thicker layer base to keep enough of it in the resin to be exposed. Instead of rising out of it and the rest being exposed in the vat.
I would guess that if it is a 3rd party resin then the exposure setting is wrong. There might be a better setting for OpenFL for that resin that someone may have already set.
You could try using black resin setting as a test if you don’t have OpenFL installed. When using a different setting take note on how fast the pdms clouds. Print in a corner so you don’t leave a big dead spot in the middle of your tank when testing. You should be able to get a few prints out without any noticeable clouding. If it clouds after 1 or 2 objects then try a gray setting.
Tried running a series of blacks, and grey, some black resin versions had too little exposure to stick it to the build plate, grey versions were only able to stick about 3 layers to the plate. so not enough, castable v2 appears to work to the best on this mix,
I have a print now, upped the base thickness to 3 and topped off the tanks slightly above the line, my problem doesn’t seem to be exposure, I can get the build to stick I just can’t get it to complete. It’s not that it falls apart, the problem is the print seems to be pulled out of the resin to early so it can not be exposed and keep building.
If it is an exposure issue then tweeking the laser power down just a little would work in OpenFL except I don’t know the speed or the power in castable or even black to begin,.
Check this link on the forums for that material. It might be there and already solved:
Thanks, I looked on that list and also another one before posting, I found online, mixing the resins throws the profile off,
thing is i was in the middle of a print that was actually showing serious signs of completion but then my peel motor gave out… lol. so maybe it was a combo of peel motor and resin…
Realizing I used some cheap super glue I had placed on the set screw I ordered some locktite 263, going to allow that a 24 hour cure and retry.
Seeing as how this vat is already ruined in my eyes w/ a new one on the way ,I will keep it as a test vat, i may even mix in a little ultra sensitve DLP resin to bring down the exposure time… I have had perfect results, mixing a little DLP resin in with mostly SLA and getting succesfull prints on a much weaker DLP machine,
I think the FL tanks seem to be a bit expensive to experiment with the resins. There is a tank someone made and sells that uses fep film and the fep lasts longer and is replaceable at a much lower cost, think around $12 a sheet or so from what i remember.
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