Bad axel rod grease affecting prints?

I greased the axel rod with some standard yellow grease I found in a grease gun. Though since then prints haven’t been quite the same. Just wondering does the axel grease need to be that specific grease (the really expensive stuff from the US) or can it be any sort of grease (is. Vaseline etc.) has anyone found a good grease to use in the Uk?

This would be a great question for FL to answer. I don’t remember seeing this ever asked or answered.

Was there a grease on it before? Most light machines use a white lithium grease or none if there are oil impregnated bronze bushings. FL should answer that. In either case it doesn’t make sense how that would affect a print since servos drive the mechanisms and will go to a certain point right?

The grease used should be ok but an official answer from FL is best.
My original peel motors rod had a white grease on it that I did not put there.

I think the best way to test if the Z axis is getting hung up on a dry or worn spot is to remove power (disconnect the power plug from the printer) and remove the build platform. I would leave an empty vat in place to prevent anything from falling onto the main mirror Carefully rotate the rod through the range of motion being careful not to bury the arm into the end stop switch at the top of the Z axis travel or into the vat at the bottom. I think if it is getting hung up enough to mess up a print, you should feel resistance in it while moving through the full range where the problems are occurring in the print. Obviously your mileage may vary and use my troubleshooting tips at your own risk. FL may have a different procedure they would want you to follow to troubleshoot this.

My Robo came with grease that seems similar to the yellow grease Edward said he used. Though I have not used it on the Form 1+ I gather that it would be ok.

Lubricants contain “Volatile Organic Compounds”. VOCs “outgas”. You want to be sure you’re using a low-VOC lubricant or it could “cook off” and coat your mirrors requiring you to do both the main and galvo cleaning sooner than normal…

Good poin t Randy. I have wiped the grease off with a tissue and done a test print overnight which I need to check. The axel definitly needs to be greased up to ensure smooth movement. If too dry it can be a little stiff that could affect the prints. This is the actual grease reccomended by FL Magnalube-G PTFE grease

I looked it up but it was pretty costly to import from the US. Though might just have to cough up the cash.

The magnalube is relitively cheap, though not cheap if you are outside the US. Look at those ridiculouse postage fees?!

We use super lube for stock Form 2s and which should be readily available in most places. With heavy use, it’s good to apply a bit of grease and the Form 2 is usually plenty vocal with alerting you as to when this is. There are some lubricants that could potentially cause issue and bind up the lead screw. If you get in touch with our support team, they can send you little self-serving packets of lubricant and can help diagnose any print issues you’re having.

Thanks Frew, those packets would be great. I found out the yellow grease I was using is used in the large projet so I assume its ok for now though will keep my eye on it.

The Z-axis screw on my Form2 lost its lube and started resonating the whole machine to sound like Chewbacca in heat. All I had was spray red grease for automotive use but that did the trick. Later I noticed that all the original grease had been pushed just below the build-plate’s lowest point on the Z-axis screw. I scooped it off and reapplied it further up the screw. It was dark gray in color but I’m sure that wasn’t the original color. In any case, the beast is behaving quite well again.

Yeah I think the bad peel lines are where there is very little grease on the axel. I think ideally it needs to be caked in grease all over.

It’s technically called a “lead screw” not “axel”. And as far as smooth motion of the lead screw goes, too much grease can cause its own problems with uneven motion. “Caked” is a bad idea IMO. You probably shouldn’t just glop it on. Apply a little on the lead screw just below the build platform when the platform is at the top of the screw, and maybe a little more half way down the screw, and then let the nut that rides on the screw smear the lube out as the platform does it’s thing during a print.

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Yeah that sounds good, cheers. I’m going to wipe of the current grease and get the proper stuff for this.

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