Warhammer 40K Imperial knight Paladin

Did you print those as assembled joints? If so how much clearance did you have to have. And what material are you printing in?
Oh, and they look great!

You can read all about it here:


No, the upper leg was printed in 2 halves. I tried and tried, but eventually gave up.


The part were printed in Black v2. resin. @ 100nm

Here is a quick shot of the legs and pelvis, next to the model kit equivalent, showing the difference in size

and here is a semi assembled closeup. Only the left leg is finished, the rest is pretty much raw print


Unbelievable!!! Super super super!!!

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Great prints.

Probably one of the COOLEST things I’ve seen on here so far! WOW.
Well done!


Hi , I’m new beginning for this site recommend I thank you for everything.

Wow, this is amazing. What is your background?

How does solid works compare to programs like Inventor or Rhino3d? Currently I found that if I make basic rough shapes in rhino3d, I can export them to Zbrush Core and then work on them there. But I’m just a beginner and no where near where I could make a model like you did.

I’ve been a little behind on updates on this model, as I have had to deal with a bunch of issues with my printer which have been documented on other threads.

I did however print a few more parts, as can be seen in the photo below. so far, I have all the parts for the legs, all the leg armor, the pelvis armor, the hanging banner, the main body bottom, front and back section, the chest armor, exhaust pipes, head, cowling helmet and face mask

Still remaining to do are the body side walls, top cover, arms, shoulder pads, chainsword, thermal cannon and a few miscellaneous pieces.

I’ve also worked out an issue I had with the ball joints.

The foot i supposed to provide the socket for the lower leg, but unfortunately i’s just too loose. Yes, I can put the model in a pose but if I pick it up, it simply comes apart, the socket for both the leg and the shock absorbers are simply too loose. Making them tighter, prevents any sooth movements, or even inserting the ball in the socket.

The solution, Magnets… I drilled out the bottom of the socket and glued in a couple of back to back 6mm diameter Neodymium disk magnets, then I cracked the ball on the leg, which is hollow, cleaned up the couple of internal supports, and put a 7mm diameter Neodymium sphere magnet.

Since the ball magnet is free floating, it allows the leg to be position at any angle, and it stays there, it doesn’t try to snap into one position as it would have if the magnet would have been glued or fixed in place. It simply rolls around inside the ball while being attracted by the socket magnets. The solution works perfectly.

I’ll post another followup once I get my printer going again.

I have no idea, as I’ve never used those programs. I started with Sketchup, but found out pretty quick how restrictive it was, So when the opportunity came up at work to do some 3D modelling, we chose to do it in-house rather than farming the work. So we bought Solidworks and I get to use it at work as well as for my personal stuff.

wow just in time for DOW 3

Here is another quick update, showing the leg joints movement. I took a little while to work it out, but it works.

It’s all about magnets, so as previously mentioned, I used magnets in the ball and socket because the actual socket can’t hold the ball andkeep the whole thing from separating. The same applies to the ball joints for the shocks on each side of the legs.

So I reprinted the shock piston with a hole in in the ball end, and glued a 6mm ball magnet in it. Then I had to have something for the magnet to be attracted to, and small miniature screw just below the socket did the trick.

Here are some photos and a video showing the motion.



It’s been a while since I posted any updates. As some of you may have read elsewhere, I’ve been having problems with my printer, and have been struggling to print using certain resins.

But that has changed in the last few days. I now have a new (to me) Form 1+ that is printing as it should, and I was able to find some Grey v2 resin as well. So this past few days, I’ve been printing some of the more challenging components of this model, and as of now, I have all the major parts already printed, and waiting to be assembled.

I’m also considering reprinting some parts that I’m not entirely happy with, like the shoulder pads and the pelvis, but last night I printed the top cover/carapace and it came out perfect. So I though I’d put the main body together temporarily and take a few snap shots. Most of the parts are primed with flat black, some others like the head, carapace, pelvis and leg pistons are still in the natural resin color.

Everything will eventually be primed in black prior to getting the final paint


All the parts have been printed and some re-printed. Here is the model loosely assembled, minus some of the parts that couldn’t be hung, like the leg armor, hanging banner, chest armor and exhausts.


SO SEXY!!! For the Emperor!

A few more updates:
One of the problems I encountered with this model, is that it’s so top heavy, that the joints can’t support it.The
joints are not stiff enough, and the friction between the moving parts is not high enough to keep the model upright in most positions, and even when I manage to set him up standing straight (like in the photo above), all it takes is a little bump for him to fall.

The hip ball joints specifically were a problem, and to a lesser extent the knees. I could have put something between the parts for friction, but then it becomes too stiff to move, so for the hip joints I drilled a hole in the leg (circled area), and used a grub screw to apply the pressure on the ball. Did the same where the hip shaft goes into the pelvis. Sop I can position the legs like I want them, then tighten the screw to hold the position.

Here is the model set in a bent knee position that would not have held up before. Now it does perfectly.

BTW, the screw holes will not be visible, as they are behind the armor plate that’s press fitted into that slot.

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I started painting some of the parts already, the main body and legs are gun metal grey, and I’m using bright silver to create highlights and a worn look of bare metal showing through. Instead of green I’ll be using dark red for the main color.

Here it is partially assembled with about 85% of all the parts.

BTW, the top carapace and shoulder pad are flat black, the purple reflections are from the overhead fluorescent light.


Amazing dude!

Slow going, but getting there…