I have to agree to everything @Alex_Vermeer and @Thomas_Judy have said… take this rook as an example: I printed a similar part at 25µ a) straight, and b) slightly tilted, in both cases with default supports. These were printed at the same time, the 3rd print job I ever did, with no previous 3D printing experience whatsoever:
In the meantime, I am 99% sure none of those supports for the straight standing part were necessary - the part was designed to produce near-perfect results for sales reasons… whether its the external surface, the print on the top level, the winding stairs, the helix, the robustness of the model. All impress.
Also, as Alex says, the auto/default supports are not bad, but they don’t come close to hand-set points. Particularly like your long straight part: that ABSOLUTELY (in my experience) needs many small supports along the edges, plus a tilt of about 10-25 degrees… less tilt means less layers, means less variance from one end to the other, but a certain tilt is needed as has been said many times.
With the small supports along the edges (which take SOME time to set!) part removal is easy, as is post cleaning - it’s much easier to clean an edge than a surface, in my humble opinion. Here’s an example .FORM - it’s only a small part, but it’s one of the few personal parts I made myself, where I don’t have confidentiality problems:
2015_07_17-battery_clip.form (1.2 MB)
This part is super easy to detach: you need a scalpel to go round the edge, go inside on the second round to separate the supports further inside, then a gentle, careful bending of the base plate and the part is in your hands. The outside is perfect, the inside doesn’t need to be perfect, and the clip bends beautifully.
Dimensional accuracy is tricky… I’ve tried calibration, and this helps, but I still get differences between lower and upper levels of a few tenths of a mm for parts of a few cm (probably something like 0,1mm per 1 cm height) in the x and y directions - you can see this effect in the table of measurements of the calibration part in this calibration thread; I’m also still finding that parts will have some degree of non-planarity, which may be banana- or wave-style… this seems to depend on a whole bunch of things, like the model itself (how thick the walls are, and what shape it is), how it’s oriented, how it’s supported, how it’s separated from the supports, how long it’s washed for, how it’s cured, plus probably some other factors I’m not thinking of.
Still, all said: I LOVE the Form1+… as already said here, for the price, so long as you weren’t expecting perfection with no effort, I think it’s REALLY great value and a brilliant tool.