I’m 50 hours in since pouring the sylgard and whilst the rubber has set the surface is very ‘tacky’. Is this right or I have done something wrong?
I think its supposed to be two days to set up but I let mine set for 4 to 5 days each time. It is much softer than Formlabs PDMS but I wouldnt say tacky.
Let it set for 4 days in total and getting pretty good results - the rubber isn’t quite level but it’s not causing too much of an issue - yet!
Hi guys,
About the sylgard, did you read the safety care ? It’s look like it’s “stable” at room temperature but extremely reactive to alcohols ( like ipa ) and a lot of other stuff like acids, ketones … that produce a very quick and exothermic reaction with a release of flammable hydrogen.
It’s constantly generates slow quantity of hydrogen. It’s important to stock it on a ventilated area and when you manipulate it to wear a respirator. (and don’t put it near oxidizers)
At first i was really excited to try it but that kind of stop me 
I’m not an expert, maybe i overreacting?
I mixed, poured and set in my kitchen and no one died so I think it’s ok in small quantities.
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Hi guys,
we followed the discussion for quite a while and thought about best processes, portions and applications to fit the recoat requirements. we were also as users facing uprising cost for maintenance (through new vats) and tried a couple of materials. Lately, we introduced ReCoat on Kickstarter to ease preparation of materials (for higher reproducability) and resistance of the silicone layer against peel forces (with an adjusted primer @VinceErb ). Sourcing Sylgard here in Germany and other regions of Europe is not as easy as in the US (from logistics and cost reasons).
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Is there a video tutorial on how to repair the tank? this would save me a ton of cash if i was able to fully understand how to repair the tank!
Thanks again!
Is Sylgard repairing the tank and recycling it only in open mode when printing? It seems that the tank used once with resin is not recognized on Form 2.
It is possible to replace the sylgard but you have to figure out the proper amount–I think someone may have done it before and has info on the amount you need to use.
It won’t require open mode, it’s the same material that is used on the tanks originally so as long as you can get the level correct it should be fine. If the printer is having trouble recognizing that the tray is installed then it may be that some wear has made it difficult for it to read the chip on the tray.
The Z-vat web page has complete instructions on how to replace the coating. Including weights and ratios.
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FYI
QSI QSil 216 works just as well as Sylgard and only $31.00
http://tinyurl.com/kkowuna
Here’s as good a place to ask as any - most of the clear RTV silicones I’ve researched cure to a very easily torn form, often touted as an advantageous “safe broken glass” special effect. Granted, I’m hampered by my geography - most or all of the silicones found on Amazon “does not ship to Romania” - so I’m seemingly limited to EU products. I tried a Polish RTV (PolSil Solar) intended, like Sylgard, for “solar cell encapsulation”, but it turned out to be another easy crumbler. The FL PDMS is a good deal more rugged - I needed scissors to break it up for disposal. Before I go into debt for some genuine Sylgard, do you feel certain it truly is what Formlabs uses, or is it another easy-crumble pseudo-replacement?
I use Rubber Glass (Smooth-on) and it’s working fine. In my country it costs 23 €
I think formlabs silicone is better, but this is a good replacement
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I just started printing and i noticed that the tray clouds very fast. too expensive hobby. Is it easy to repair the silicon and are there any cheap resellers in europe?