@Simon - to be clear, I was not actually suggesting rolling back software/firmware. In fact I was expressing doubt that software/firmware would cause the failed prints as described - but I also linked the unofficial wiki with the old preform versions, because it’s there, and, who knows for sure …
I am actually becoming much happier about the long term prospects with my Form1 - It’s true it uses cheap components which fail often; the galvo comes from the laser light show industry, and seems to fail a lot. The laser also seems a common point of failure - it’s very interesting to see a recent spate of 2 or 3. My first printer actually failed with a broken laser - my second failure was a galvo.
But - I’m guessing that this is all part and parcel of making a stereolithography printer available at around $3k. The thing I really like about the Form1 is it’s construction, it’s very easy to take apart and maintain.
The main problem I have is Formlabs refusal to engage with the community and explain what can go wrong with the Form1 and where to source spare parts. Their insistence on treating it as a “black box” that should go back to the manufacturer for even the most trivial of issues is simply impractical for foreign customers and worrying when the warranty is so short.
However - we have been forging ahead regardless. A replacement galvo was sourced and when my y-axis galvo failed 2 weeks ago I replaced it with the Phenix Technology PT-20K which was actually very easy. I’m more that 10 prints in and dimensionality is completely stable, see here; https://support.formlabs.com/entries/41140023-Swapping-out-a-bad-galvo-the-PhenixTech-PT-20K-is-a-drop-in-replacement-video-of-tuning
So the main challenge that remains is to document a laser replacement process - whether that means cracking out the laser diode from the Formlabs laser module and soldering in a new one, or ideally if someone could find an equivalent 4 wire module that would be a plug-in replacement.
I started the unofficial wiki to collate all this sort of information - and make the Form1 a realistic long term tool. http://http://form1printer.pbworks.com/
Kevin,
part of my reason for rolling back to the January load was because I hadn’t tried an earlier version of the firmware when I went back to 1.1. I didn’t expect it to work but felt it was worth a try. I didn’t intend to imply that you were encouraging people to follow that path. The laser failure will result in my receiving my fourth printer under warranty.
The machine does look easy to dismantle, which should help when the warranty expires. The very controlled flow of limited information out of the company is frustrating as is the lack of engagement with the users - send us your photos is just PR. Very few people use a machine exactly as the designers expect, the supports discussion is indicative of this. The automatic supports are totally unsuitable for my needs; I have used the B9 software but found it unstable and I now design the support structures in my drawing package.
It may be generational, but I find the information on using the printer on the web site to be shallow. I hope that the wiki will build to be a deeper and structured source of information.
Simon
Yes - the wiki is in it’s infancy, we need more contributors. Anyone thinks they have info that will help other owners - please sign up there.
Well I reverted everything back (Firmware 1.2c, Software 0.9.1) and now…
My prints are attaching to the build platform again.
Now I just have to deal with the damage that this “update” may have caused to my resin tank due to all of the resin which was “cooked” onto it in specific places over the past three days.
Earlier in this post I mentioned that the DAMN QUICK RELEASE TABS are causing problems. That is why some of the parts don’t stick to the base platform and sometimes there are failures. Ever since I started putting my own supports and not using those tabs, everything prints great. I just don’t understand why they have to push things on us just because they think it’s a good idea. In that case put a toggle and let us choose.
I’m having the same issue. What’s frustrating is the FL team doesn’t think it is a software issue – But for me, it is all too coincidental that the issues started happening en masse after v1.2. But nevertheless, I’m working with them via the support ticket system.
One thing – for those who are saying the prints are still failing after reverting back to the old software. As painful as it is, you need to drain your resin tank and dispose of the resin. I know, I know, it’s expensive! But if you have some semi-solid particles in the resin, it’ll cause the prints to fail, even with v1.1.
thanks Dungeon Stone for replying back… I am on the same path and will need to go back firmware too… I will do your same combination. (It is interesting that the latest software now adds a tuning feature to calibrate the platform lower or higher… how would we really know without more waste?)
The display panel on my printer flashes off and on between layers, the timer counts down then jumps back two or three seconds and lots of failed models. Has anyone any idea what’s causing this?
Thanks
Dave
I just had my 2nd successful print after the rollback.
I didn’t have good luck after my rollback. Same issues. I will have to try some other things and also try to print in the corners of my messed up tank since I dont want to open up my last new one until I figure this new mess up.
I also ended up with a tank of porridge after the upgrade of PreForm to 1.2 and the corresponding firmware upgrade.
However, discussion with Ford Fraker in a support ticket seems to point to the possibility that my problem is due to an environmental cause … the temperature in the room in which my Form 1 lives is below the resin’s operating range.
In an effort to save oil, we run the heating in our our 100+ year old farm house at a relatively cool level, and our thermostat setting in the heated part of the house is still 2-3 degrees C below the resin’s minimum temperature. Without giving the Form 1 it’s own heated mini-environment, there’s no way I’ll get successful prints.
With the Polar Vortex that’s been freezing North America in the past month, it leads me to wonder if any other Form 1 users with sudden printing problems are trying to use their Form 1 in too cold an environment.
Do you have the stats for each resin? What’s the range for the clear, white & gray?
I have the clear resin, and the information I was sent is that its Operating Temperature Range is: 18-28C / 64-82F.
Here’s the link I was given: http://formlabs.com/pages/tech-specs
Just a minor point. That operating range is for the Form 1 itself. No idea what the actual resin’s range is, but I suspect the temperature range in the Form 1 specs takes into account the resin operating temperature range.
Hi guys,
A potential explanation why rolling back to the previous version might not be working. I noticed when trying to adjust the “fine tuning” settings, it stated that the printed must be connected in order to adjust these settings. That makes me think these settings are not being transmitted with the file upload, but are put in the firmware. (Maybe I’m wrong)
But, if you upgraded to v1.2, it set your Z-height to 0 instead of the previous value, and now you go back to v1.1, you’ll still have a bad z-height.
Just my theory. Anyways, so I guess now I’m working through some more test prints using v1.2
Hi Guys,
I just started having this issue with 1.2.
I had 2 prints failed its so frustrating. Hopefully there will be a fix for this soon.
Im attempting a 3rd try with 1.1 and a completely new orientation. Wish me luck.
Miguel,
It is hard to see but it looks like there are little skin tags hanging off your print. If they are, I would stop and open up a support ticket. Maybe print out the butterflies, but definitely open up a support ticket before you potentially waste any more of resin…
Good luck. Let us know how you make out.
David
I printed a butterfly and worked out ok using 1.1 . So I decided to redo the failed print all over with new orientation and supports in 1.1 and failed again this time i caught it early so I was able to stop it before I wasted more resin.
the butterfly looks good… wish I could get back to that… I am taking a few steps back and will set up a new station downstairs so i don’t breath all the toxins at my main system which was producing headaches and a very short fuse to my patience : )
I have been printing with the latest version of pre-form and haven’t seen any unusual failures. The only problem I see is with the quick release tabs. They sometimes cause the prints to detach form the platform mid-print and the print either fails or it prints somehow but is distorted because half of it is detached. This happened ever since they introduced the quick release tabs. I really hope a toggle option is coming for these annoying things soon.
The biggest issue for me with using the grey resin is that the pigment settles very quickly and that can cause so many problems (including the ones I see in this thread). If I leave the resin in the tank for a week or so, I have to mix it well before my next print, and sometimes that doesn’t even help. The pigment settles and coats the PDMS in a very thin layer of “fog” that needs to be scraped well in order to print again. I usually pour the resin out of my tank into a cup and stir it that way after making sure the PDMS is clean of pigment residue. If any residue is left stuck to the PDMS, it is almost a guaranteed failed print.
Lately I’ve been resorting to doing “cleaning prints” after a long pause of not printing (usually after a week). What I do is scrape the tank well, pour out the resin, strain it and stir it well in a cup then pour it back into the tank. Add a little more fresh resin and do a PDMS massage with the spatula. Then I print a few small test parts that I arrange around the build platform. I print at 100 so it’s fast. ( I compare this to doing a clean test on inkjet printers after the heads get clogged). Sometimes the test print fails (but it doesn’t matter), so I stop it when I can see the failure and clean the tank by emptying the resin, straining and adding back to the tank.
After that all my prints come out perfect, until I leave the printer and the resin in the tank for a week or so again.
So…I think formlabs should really re-think their resins. The pigment is causing all sorts of problems, and I can bet that 90% of the failures that we see in this forum is because of that. A finer pigment may be the solution, or using a dye instead of pigments. Dyes don’t settle, but the colors and prints will be translucent.