Did you use the same tank of the Formlab resin?
1 Like
Nice!
Yes, I flushed an old cartridge and used the same tank you would use for the normal Formlabs resin, worked fine!
1 Like
The fluid resin transfer is extremely low tech. Squeeging a rubber split cap to fill the resin tank is primitive at best.
FL must not have many fluid-transfer mechanical engineers on staff.
i’ve been using the photocentric resins and am getting some good results. The only issue is that my cartridges are now “worn out” even though its probably fine. Has anyone found a work-a-round for this yet? Other than using the open mode of course,
Discussing how to “work-a-around” the “worn out” issue in Formlab’s forum is just like discussing how to overthrow Nazi in Hitler’s conference room…
2 Likes
I have not reviewed the FL patents as to the resin cartridge. So I do not know what their patent covers.
That said, it seems that designing a reusable cartridge would consist of a bottom piece that snap- connects to a mini-solenoid controlled valve. The solenoid is activated by the same mechanism that squeezes the split-rubber bottom cap.
A solenoid valve is much more wear-resistive than a split rubber cap. You could then interchange the cartridges that would plug into the solenoid.
Lol, Godwins Law.
1 Like
Hi, Krobin,
I apologize for my bad English.
I have a pair of questions, because I did not understand everything:
- how you fill the cartriged ; from above or below? in clear or white ecc. Cartridges?
- which material you set up in PREFORM Print Setup ?
I thank you for the help Gianni
Anybody have any good results with photocentric3d firm gray on a form1+?
i have now tried gray1, gray2 and black1 and it looks like the figure has more or less melted.
Your failures are in FL resin?
No the formlabs resin prints perfectly.
but i tried Photocentric3d Firm grey, with grey1/2 and black1 settings with no luck.
the parts look like they have been exposed to too much heat when printing, like they are melting.
Ah. Sorry. Can you post up some pics? I was thinking of giving this resin a try.
The first picture is with Grey1 0,5 setting.
The third picture is with Grey2 1,0 setting
And the last picture is with Black1 0,5 setting
Thank you for the pictures. Those are pretty disappointing results.
Looking at your last picture, are the supports fused to the model on the sides? It looks like it is all over curing.
I am wondering if the resin would get better results with a custom ini file in OpenFL.
I think clear will have the shortest print time, can you try printing with a Clear resin profile. I am not sure if it really matters which version.
You can see it better on the third picture how the supports are more or less fucesed to the part.
Sure I can try one on clear, but clear1/2/3 ??
Just for clarification I am using a new tank and a new buildplatform,
Just staret a new one with clear2 1,0 settings.
Well, It printed but again it looks like i have not bathed it inn IPA, but it has had a good 10 min and waterrinse after.
I am thinking you may get the best results with a custom profile in OpenFL. Even with the clear you look like you are getting over-curing.
To test, before you try creating a custom profile, Use the file that is somewhere on the site to calibrate your machine. It has the form file and all the measurements. Print that out and see how the cubes measure up. We can then edit from there. I would not do the scaling from within preform since you are happy with the results when you use Formlabs resin.
Also create a small cube. Print it without supports.
Lets see how off or over cured the resin is. Then we can go from there.
So first print the testcube with all the holes,
then we se how that ends up.
if that fail we create a new print profile.
but what is so different with the form1+ setting compared to form2 settings?
the form2 prints with this resin perfectly