Parts without supports are too sticky to the build platform..!

I am facing problems with my prints on form 1+, they are real tough to remove from the build platform without the supports on. I hurt myself twice trying to remove the part from the build platform.

But when I turn on the supports I don’t get a smooth nice finish which I want my part to have. Here are sample of my prints with supports on.

I also rinse my parts in IPA before trying to remove the supports.
Can anyone suggest a solution to my problem? Am I doing things in the right way?


Your support placement has a lot to do with your resulting surface finish. If you want something to be completely smooth, the only option is to either not put any supports in that area, or some sort of post processing.

The parts need to stick firmly to the platform in order to survive the peel process. A sharper/thinner blade/putty knife may make your life easier.

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Thanks but do you mean to say if I go with supports on i’ll have surfaces uneven and rough everytime as one shown in picture?

Can you suggest me some post processing techniques.

You should be able to pop the part off with a razor scraper. I did a number on my thumb but if you rest the built platforms side on a table and work a razor scraper on the edge of the part pushing away you should be able to get the part off. Slow pressure seems to work good here.

No, that looks extremely poor. It appears as though you did not tip the part at all and just attached supports on the bottom. Parts print best at an angle.

@KenCitron Thanks.

@Paul_Schommer i’ll try printing at angles. Do you alter your support settings or just go with auto generation of supports? Can you recommend optimum support settings which works the best for you.

Thanks a lot

Auto generated supports are a decent starting point. Once you understand the support system better you will probably begin placing all the supports manually. Theres not much in the way of catch all type settings for this. The only thing i always change is the point size – I always use 0.40mm. I would rather use more resin creating more supports than have to deal with removing the little contact points.

Also… for the angle. You will want that flat side to be at least 20 degrees from horizontal, but not quite vertical… its a bit of an art really.

Large parts are always best printed with supports. Flat printing that I do is for small coins, emblems etc. flat printing requires manual compensation in thickness of the height of the model that may vary printer to printer. Most seem to run around .022" due to the initial compression layers ( reason why it is so tough to remove the part from the build platform).

Thanks guys. I’ll try and let you’ll know the results soon.

I did get good results when printed at an angle. I kept my part at 45degree angle. But still its not the smooth surface which I want.

Any solutions to this guys apart from printing with supports on?


Figure out how to use supports. 99% of your work will require them. Certain parts print well exactly vertical, and this may be a pretty good candidate. I would print this part with the round bearing piece toward the platform, vertical (e.g. the fork aimed straight up off the build platform) and with the bore aligned front to back. If you wanted to rotatet he part slightly in the golbal Z (e.g. rotate about the axis vertically off the platform) it may aid in getting peels started.
You’ll end up with supports on the lower outside of the bearing, possibly a couple coming in and supporting the inside top of the bearing, and a few along the side edges of the fork. These will be easy to clean up. If you think you are going to print parts on this type of SLA machine and have zero post processing, you are sadly mistaken.

I had the very same issues when I first started using my Form 1+. After many prints, I’m going to echo all of the above. You need to use supports, angles and with time, you’ll find your happy spot.

Now. What do we do about that acne skin we get when using supports? It was mentioned earlier that some “post processing” is necessary. We have to realize that all parts don’t come out of the printer finished and ready to use.

Luckily, I have a small CNC mill. The hardened resins machine beautifully. So I add about 1mm to my flat surface model, print, and surface on the mill.

If I didn’t have the mill, I might add .25mm and then use a sanding block. Start with say, 80 grit and work until you have smooth surface using 240 grit.

Part too small for sanding block you say? Use the sand paper (grit side up) flat on a table. Rub the part back and forth on the sand paper until you have the results you desire.


Hi guys…It was a great pleasure interacting with you’ll. I want to show my prints now on how it has improved and how I angle my prints before printing so that anyone facing similar issues will get it sorted.

I am now getting good results from this printer thanks to these guys…Cheers…!!!


My suggestion, only use a flat-head screwdriver to pivot it out on the base risen corner. It is easy and safer.

Did you manually put on the supports? Thanks.

@Cheuk_Ming_Wong I tried using the sharpest tool to remove my part when printed without supports; I used to find it difficult to remove parts due to initially compressed layers, there was a risk of cutting through the part while trying to scrap through the corners using a sharp edge and also I found the dimensions alter at the compressed layers which made my part to have a tapered bore.

To fight these challenges the best way suggested to me by this group was to print with supports on.

I angled my part and manually put the supports at the edges so as to minimize the supports on the flat area as I wanted it to be smooth. Hope this help you @Cheuk_Ming_Wong. Good luck

Quite successful print in the photo that I see the support is minimal. I use the default 1.0 density support which leaves me a lot of sanding works. You are good at adding support manually.

You will also understand the pattern of supports after few practice. Keep trying and you will get better.

Thanks Nitvar23. In PreForm support tool function, there is “RED zone” to indicate weak area that needs more support. Do you also this to help your manual support adding? I always afraid of fail print which is a waste of time and money, that why I don’t quite rely on this red-zone indicator.

I always cover up the red region as much as possible… After adding supports I remove some to see whether it will affect my print, if removing a specific support doesn’t show a red zone then I don’t put that support into my print. In that way I minimize my supports.