Most reliable Clear Splint Material?

Have tried LT Clear Resin, and haven’t had a lot of luck with it. Currently talking to supplier in case of a bad batch.

Is there a laboratory or person who has had luck with printing clear splints with the Form2?

I’ve printed 50+ guards now with the LT Clear and haven’t run into any problems not caused by user error. What issues are you having?

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Alot of my splints are fracturing to shatter. And are coming out yellow, even though the manufacturers guidelines have been followed.
I am using the form wash and cure.

Yikes. Mine come out of the cure box with a very slight yellow tint, but definitely haven’t had any fractures or shattering. Worst that’s happened is one patient wore a hole through the guard–I just opened the bite a bit and printed a new one. My uneducated guess would also be a problem with the batch of resin…I don’t know if something like over-curing could cause brittleness. I hope you can get it figured out with minimal frustration, we’re had nothing but a great experience. (Though the design software might be another matter…)

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Which software are you using to design the splints?


I am using 3Shape ApplianceDesigner in conjunction with scans being sent to our TRIOS inbox.

I have been Washing the Parts for 5 Minutes in the Form Wash, then curing them in the form cure for 20 minutes at 80degreesCelcius.

Our supplier was told by Formlabs tech support that we could be over curing them, so I changed to curing them for 15 minutes at the same temperature, but it has made no difference. So I now cure them at 20 minutes again, which is why i am here.

Some instructions say to run them through an Ultrasonic, other instructions do not, so i refrain from doing so.

I understand the angle at which they’re being printed has an effect on the overall structure of the splint, and i’m printing them with the fit surface away from the bed, so no supports are touching interproximal regions.

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Sure sounds like you’re doing everything right. The only difference I see is that I print the guards at a ~30° angle with the anterior higher (i.e. further from the build platform). I’m not sure what the reasoning is–it’s just what I was trained to do–but if print angle has something to do with overall strength, it might be worth trying that and see if it helps.