How does Formlabs cured resin handle heat?

Can the Formlabs resin stand up to mold vulcanizing temperatures of 320 degrees F for 2 1/2 hours? Will it soften or deform? Anyone try this?

There are silicone rubbers available that are vulcanized at lower temps (around 200F) that should work but they are about 3x the price of organic rubber mold blanks and I’ll like to use organic rubber if I can.



I printed a ‘tray’ once with trenches to put solder paste in. I was trying to make a circuit. It was very low melting point solder. I put it in a toaster oven. It should have melted the solder around 360 degrees F. Before the solder paste even started working the Form1 print was exuding oil, smoking, warping, and cracking. Heat is not it’s friend.

That said, I have had great luck making silicone molds from room temperature cure silicone. I have a quart of 1 gallon MoldMax 30 if you want it. It goes for $97 plus shipping here. You can have mine for $20 plus shipping if you want 1 quart instead.

Thanks for the info Josh. … and the offer of the silicone. I have gallons of RTV silicone in my shop at all times, I’m in the miniatures business and I use it for resin casting on a daily basis. The reason for my inquiry was for centrifugal casting (spin casting) of metal (pewter) miniatures. Normally I start with a metal master but was hoping maybe the Formlabs resin might hold up to the temps of vulcanizing.

Interesting. So I have tried some aluminum casting from 3D prints. How does pewter compare? Does it flow into thin areas better?

I have never done any spin casting with aluminum … I do not think my rubber molds are compatible with aluminum (higher temps I’m sure) … I think for aluminum you need to do sand casting, but I could be wrong. I cast pewter in rubber molds (vulcanized organic rubber) all the time, it’s now 99% of all gaming miniatures are made, I’ve never heard of anyone trying aluminum to make miniatures.

If you want see an example of what I do:

The mold for this was created from a metal master … what I’m trying to do is shortcut the process by going straight from a Formlabs resin print into rubber and vulcanizing … but it seems that may not be an option if the formlabs resin cannot handle the vulcanizing temperatures.

Yep, I remember your stuff from when I printed that truck for you back in the day. Great stuff. It’s really impressive.
And yea, Aluminum is double the melting temp of pewter.
I don’t see a way around the extra step. I suppose your backup plan is to use castable to make the first one using jewelry casting techniques, then make a mold from that?

I have had many jewelry molds made from the castable resin and still have the original prints.

Use Shapeways precious metals system in brass. The cast investment can be finished more safely to the level you require and can be used over and over again in the vulcanization process.
None of the shapeways resins will resist the compression and heat beyond the first impression.
If you have to use your Formlab master then replicate it once using 2 part silicone and cast it in polyureathane which is more durable.

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