Well, you can print directly on the build platform but keep in mind that the first layers are compressed in order to improve base adhesion, and therefore the final thickness of the part will be smaller than your design. Also, if you can add a chamfer to remove the part that helps not to damage it. Or use an X-ato carefully!
Edit: one more thing, avoid to print flat surfaces parallel to the build plate, since it results in failed prints or poor surface finish!
@ClaudioPin
We have tried it several ways and that orientation - pararell to build platform makes great flat surfaces :). It drastically influence any 3d relieph parts, but for flat - it works great.
But there is also disadvantage of that orientation. The forces inside print that kinda “shrink” - after uv lightning. This print -that author posted - may bend into the center. I suppose that temperature does that. When we print simillar things vertically - this effect doesn’t happen.
Welcome to our world
You have to simply add some flat small surface to the object before sending it to printer. This flat area will be the place that you will “work on” to get the print out of the building platform - if any thing crack - it will be at this small “work area” that you have added. Just simply polish it after uv lighting.
We do that in 90% of prints - just adding some tiny walls for supports - and after curing we polish those walls - and we dont have any cracks or holes caused by supports.
If you need to not damage the part, you should not print directly on de build platform. Try angling the part by 10 degrees of more on both X and Y axii with the hook on the top, look for the maximum angle that allow you to only place supports on the bottom (and not on the side) so that it’s easy to sand down after removing the supports.
If you are able to upload the .form or stl file I can show you a quick example
If you design the part for 3D printing (aka “design for manufacturing”) you can plan to print on the build platform, this means planning a geometry to remove the part and also planning for the fact that the dimensions of the first few millimeters are being compressed.
However most of the time your part isn’t designed specifically for 3D printing which is where the supports come in handy.
Here’s how I would print it : saphire_star_medal.form (763.4 KB)
All the supports are on one face, so it’s easy to clean and sand, but no face is parallel to the build platform (like in your second image).
Now you could add a bit of material on one tip of the star that you would use to get under the part to separate is from the platform, but you would also have to increase the total height of the part to get a precise print… and then precisely sand the tip to remove the excess material. I think it’s more work than just sanding the bottom.
@SevenSeas
Most of our prints have our additional parts that we kinda “sticked” to original stl file.
1 - When we print directly into build platform - flat, without supports we add small area that we will put the knife/spatula into. It can crack - so thats why we add it.
2- When we print verticaly we add some kind of small frame that supports will stick into it. When we remove supports we always hawe terrific holes - 0,1 mm 0,2mm in depth. There is no way to polish them. That’s why we add frame - and that frame holds the supports. After removing supports from mthe frame we simply polish it.
I use a different scraper then the one that came with the Form 2 setup as that one was to blunt to remove anything even with a base.
It is a knife edge paint scraper that is sharp thin and strong enough to slide under most prints. Just have to be careful not to slip as it can cut you as it is very sharp, but is slides under the prints with ease even the tougher ones done directly on the print slab.
Also hard to find one sharp anymore as most paint scrapers made today are blunter then they need to be to work (at least the ones here in overly safety conscious California).
thank you very much for the tipp, yes thats the orientation i also would do, but i want to safe many and the option was to print without that plattform…
i see so many print directly form building plate and thats what i also wish
Use a can of spray air, as for cleaning keyboards. Hold can upside down and spray around edges, should just pop off. However building directly to platform can produce poor results and the z axis dimensions will be off, due to first few layers being non-standard.
Hello! Make sure your part is perfectly straight on the build platform. If it’s not, this can happen and it will fall off. You can check by slicing through the model in PreForm. The first layer should be entirely on the build platform. If it’s only partial, if can be ripped off during the peeling motion.
Yes, it would be best to remove all the cured resin from the tank and then filter the resin to ensure that no small cured particles remain.