got a different brand on the way will report findings
You just have to tune the bucktown in with light blocker and/or adding pigment.
Bucktown works well for small parts but I’ve had issues with larger samples. Large parts sometimes get internal cracks.
The material is nice and hard. Easy on the resin tank also.
Same with photocentric.
Great for small parts, totally useless for bigger parts. You can try to tune it, but it doesn’t make it much better.
If someone has a broken Form 2 out of warranty, I’m happy to buy it and develop an open firmware or hardware so you can adjust all parameters.
I’m receiving a liter of resin tomorrow from a new company will keep you posted on my success with the prints
Good info on the bucktown thanks it is still the cheapest out there
I will echo what @FredB said as well. It is extremely good on the PDMS. When I was vigorously testing Bucktown every day, for several weeks in a row, I barely even got a hint of clouding. In comparison, when I print with a specialty resin like NextDent Ortho, it clouds the PDMS immediately. Also, as @gholson2 mentioned, it is DIRT CHEAP, so you can afford to mess around, and try different prints that you normally wouldn’t try.
I’m getting reinvigorated seeing this activity in the thread, and also some private messages sent to me. I’m going to make it a priority to get back to testing. Welcome @gholson2 and please share your results and brand of resin used!
Never had any issues printing larger parts using the photocentric resin myself, if anything the other way round, I tend to find I need to add more/thicker supports so printing small items can actually be quite tricky, for me anyway.
I will keep you posted yoderkl but based on your mention of PMs I think you may have a clue what’s on the way
Glad to get you hyped up again !!
I have not, looks promising. The cheapest for 1 L is approx. $105 w/o shipping (mine would be intl). The more expensive is $175 for 1 L. My personal guess is that with shipping and tax, for me personally, it wouldn’t be any better of a deal than FL resins.
I do like the glow in the dark and clear impact though.
New to me, might be worth trying out though.
Well folks the day has come, will start testing after I print a few jobs and clean out my tray…
Alright folks I’m giving a new 3rd party company resin a try some of you all may have gotten PM by them so we will see printing a random torture test from thingiverse right now
Honestly thought there were more interested in this kind of stuff!! that being said so far so good print finished and it looks Amazing. Curing the part now will post results with a video tomorrow of the process and pictures ETC.
Long story short the resin looks very very promising. I am highly considering their other resins that are available.
I’m interested ! I see that it comes with documentation stating the equivalent Formlabs resin, which is quite useful.
You might want to place your images in a Google drive folder, and just give the link to that folder.
It would make the review of the photos more convenient.
Olivier awesome yes my 13 hour print finished and it looks good!! I will post some photos today and my thoughts around the resin. Thanks for the advice !
We’re always interested in 3rd party resins here.
I have looked at the ApplyLabWork resins and they’re interesting. Good price and actually tested on Formlabs printers.
But, I’m buying a house and have no extra cash on hand to test with.
A 13 hour print should be pretty substantial. Big prints are almost always the biggest challenge for 3rd party resins so we’re looking foreword to some pictures.
Reporting details on 3DResyns UHF color base, with added custom pigment from them (RAL #6018):
- Started with 150 ml of UHF color base, uncolored (coloring paste comes in separate vial)
- Added 0.45 ml (approx) of FT1
- Added 5 drops of coloring paste
- Mixed thoroughly and printed in Open Mode with Grey V3 profile
Notes: Raft adhered no problem, supports look normal.
Maybe the coin I am trying to print is too thin (I shrunk it down pretty far for a quick print)?
I would measure the thickness of the thin part of the coin that actually printed. It does look pretty thin.
I print coins completely vertical and along/parallel to the front. Less supports and seems to work well.
Per 3D Resyns included documentation:
Added 0.1% more FT1 (I actually made a mistake here, I had calculated 0.1% of the total resin (500 mL, instead of my test batch which was only 150 mL. So basically a put in 3.5x as much as they recommended, on accident)
Mixed thoroughly, printed and cured:
Result: Success with bleeding (excess depth of cure, because I accidentally added too much FT1 which made it over-react, I’m guessing)
I had to add LB1 to all of the resins to make them print properly. The laser in the Form2 is pretty strong and tends to cure deep regardless of adding pigment. Pigment does help.
LB1 is your friend with cure depth issues. Once you get it right you will be able to see layer lines on the back side similar to the front. Shake LB1 well and I would start at 1% with resin that has pigment. 1.5% for clear. You can always add more…