Ok team this is what I’ve got so far regarding the ApplyLabWork resin. In short so far I am a fan of their modeling black resin, I cannot speak for those that need precision based models as I have not created any (yet) I will try the calibration cubes YoderkI has tried that being said these are the prints I have done so far!
Ok above is a random torture test I found on thingiverse that I printed. Printed in open mode at 100 microns. Black V1 resin
Below I have a 13 hour print, a project I have been working on. I believe if this print did not pause after the 100ml limit that open mode allows I wouldn’t have had the issue that you can see in the part (cracking/separation). That of course is a formlabs thing.
Your project looks really good (the bust), but as you pointed out the warping is a very big deal on the other print. In my experience, this can lead to cracking as well. I have a suspicion that warping might be caused by overcuring (either from the laser or the post-cure). Not necessarily an excess of depth of cure, because your supports look to be the proper dimensions.
Why did you pick Black V1? Is that what the documentation said? I’d be curious to see what happens with Black V3, Grey V3 or Clear V3 profile. Maybe you won’t get the warping?
Definitely do one of those test cubes for dimensional accuracy as well. Great work!! Please keep us posted on your testing!
That being said I still think this resin is worth the price for less precise prints. For example if I had something that needed to be less than 100ml and didn’t have thin walls I would print with this over formlabs. Just for the cost difference I also want to try out some of their other resins. I think the flexible is next experiment I will take
Fred B no worries man thats why this is a community we all gotta put in to come ahead. You have surely done your part just as yoderkI. My turn to do what I can.
YoderkI you are my guide here, Ok post cure most likely is the issue I am still trying to get that right. I have a uv box and cured this in it. The company Apply Lab Work gives specific details on what resin profile to use and the V1 is what they said use. V1 Black to be exact.
I will do the cubes after the large print to test the dimensional accuracy.
I did leave the print under the UV cure 8 minutes over what the paperwork said this might be where I went wrong
We will find out with this next print. If anyone has a small print they want me to try send it over. I will give it a go to see how things go.
If there is anyway to get your hands on an old Black V1 cartridge, you could try to ghost ride the print in regular mode. I.e. Pop in an empty Black V1 cartridge, fill up tank with ApplyLabs, and print regularly. You wouldn’t have to stop the print after 100 mL, but I’m not sure if the resin sensing would muck things up.
As far as the warping goes, can you show pre and post cure pics, if it’s not warped off the print bed then I wouldn’t be as worried.
Added 1% LB1 to my mixture (actually, I calculated wrong again… this whole time I have been using 150 mL, not 250 or 500 mL. So I put in twice as much LB1 as recommended)
Needless to say, I really didn’t do this correctly at all, but after only 2 prints it seems like I now have a resin with really good chemistry. The only thing I noticed was that it seemed to just be barely adhered to the build plate, so maybe with larger peeling forces the part could have dropped, but again, I really did not do any math correctly.
This is what my mix is producing now, next I will try a larger print:
Summary: I am a very big fan of this third party resin. To date, this has been the easiest to “tune” to the Form2. I would venture to say that is due to the blocker and initiator that they give you with your order. From here, I can just order my pre-tuned resin with my “mixture” specifications, and 3DResyns will create it for me. I really like the unlimited colors, and the customer service was extremely good to me (very good technical information as well). I am impressed with @FredB 's mechanical property results as well. Definitely will buy again. However, as @FredB also mentioned, the blocker probably works with Bucktown as well, so the ultimate goal would be to get the $100/4L Buck working with 3DResyns Blocker (which, I believe Fred said he did successfully). Very well done 3DResyns.
Below are my results of my final large print. Currently printing the final pieces which are less than 100ml I really think the issue comes into play when the machine pauses the cracks seem to occur at that point on all the prints. This last print has some small separation around the belt. You might spot it in the close ups.
besides that its amazing resin from what I can see price is good and I will test accuracy in the next few days. also this is pretty much a start and stop resin no mixing needed. Curious to try out their flexible any questions don’t hesitate to ask (parts snapped together well and for that there was some flex but not much)
He actually just got back to me in regards to viscosity and capacitance. I don’t believe wiping would be a splash hazard as it is thicker than FL resins and he is looking into the capacitance to see how likely it would properly fill the vat. That being said, without a V1 cartridge or a chip from one, I see open mode as the only option.
I agree hence my search for a black V1 cartridge aswell but it prints very well in open mode but the pause does create a line on large parts after the 100ml.
If the chip in the cartridge is not encrypted(like inkjet cartridges) then you could flash any cartridge chip with black V1 data. If I remember correctly from my search in the past it’s a 1 wire maxim chip. There was an encrypted version and a non-ecrypted version. Never tried to read the chip but if this setting works I could make a flash device.
The cube was warped
