Honestly not completely sure
No idea how you would flash it or connect it to the computer but I’m sure y’all are smarter than me when it comes to that lol. I would just enjoy if it surprised us and just worked no one here st all has a v1 black cartridge come on!!
That would be a huge breakthrough for the users wanting to use 3rd party resins. Hopefully FL doesn’t mind too much lol. I really think they would sell more products if prices were a bit more reasonable and not like 3rd party cheap, but somewhat.
Actually, Formlabs could get ahead of the game and start offering the sale of empty cartridges for third party use chipped to our request and make a profit.
Just to make sure we are all on the same page:
Does this line/crack/seam/etc. occur if you press the continue immediately?
Or, is it only a problem after sitting for some time, and then coming back and pressing continue?
I seem to remember it not being a huge issue if I was standing there when it got to 100 mL, but I’m 100% sure. I mainly ask because there might be different ways to troubleshoot the problem if it is simply a timing issue. I mean, this sounds crazy, but this does exist:
If the dashboard throws a specific message when it needs that 100mL button press, then theoretically you could make a little hack to have it link to the button presser and your set.
You would still need to pour resin in if in open mode. Which is what it looks like has to be done since older cartridges are nowhere to be found. That being said, you would have to babysit the prints.
Honestly don’t think it’s a time ting because nothing is changing besides the pause and it continuing, what I mean by that is I think once the laser is off (because of the 100ml limit) something resets causing the layer at the point of the refill. I experienced the crack on the one print but on my other large print I experienced just the line
Is there a “short list” of compatible resins that actually work and are available in Europe ?
If it’s not encrypted it shouldn’t be too difficult(just building a simple controller to communicate to the PC). If I have some time I’ll try it this week.
A dollar says this is encrypted.
You’re gonna lose a dollar to me
I opened up a few cartridges, it’s a non-encrypted chip(just checked the datasheet). I expect that reflashing this thing will be a breeze. Now, I only need a black V1 cartridge and make an adapter to reflash tanks. First going to try to make a black cartridge behave like a tough cartridge.
The ability to reset the cartridges along with replacing bite valves would be a huge advantage for the third party resins.
The chip hardware may not be encrypted but the file on the chip likely is. It’s not going to be a big file so you might be able to compare a bunch of tags to decipher the settings.
I swear I’m not trying to be a Debbie Downer here, but what happens if FL stops having Black V1 as a print option? I’m guessing that’s gotta be just an update away?
Also, @fantasy2 that would be SO freaking sweet if you could start flashing cartridges… PLEASE keep us posted!!
I’m not worried about encryption. I’m most worried about FL blocking cartridges with certain serial numbers. But if your printer never goes online, there is no way to block it(other than in the firmware)
If they stop support, then we’ll have to be creative and find another solution. Or just never update the firmware inside the machine.
You’ll be the first to get a flashing device when it works.
Victory shall be ours!? This would be wonderful for my Applylabworks resin testing.
Alright, so after some testing tonight:
I can read the data from multiple cartridges. I can erase them and write new data in them.
However…(there it comes). You cannot copy the data from one cartridge to another cartridge. The F2 will stop recognizing the cartridge. So there must be some kind of hash or checksum in the data comparing the chip ID. I have not checked which bytes change after printing.
After writing the original data back in the chip, it is again fully functional. So mayyybe it is still possible to save the data of a fresh cartridge and then every time it’s empty, just restore the initial data. This can probably be checked by reading how much resin is in the cartridge according to the F2(you can get this data by sniffing the LAN network), printing something, flash data back and check again.
…and then it could be that the F2 stores the chip ID into his own memory once it’s empty. Manufacturers like stratasys do something similar.
(must be fun for the F2 engineers to read all of this… )
Hmmm… Are you saying that once the cartridge is empty, the system will no longer recognize it (or remember it as empty), even if you refill it with the same resin?
I’ve heard of many people that simply refill the cartridge and it keeps working (at least until the valve gives up).
BTW, I assume you mean “cartridge”, when you say “tank”
Sorry, it was late already, I keep calling these cartridges tanks…
You can keep refilling cartridges, but at some point the system will refuse to continue printing(read somewhere it’s around 2+ liters).
Stratasys for example records levels in their cartridges and as soon as the cartridge is empty, it records it’s chip IC inside the machine.
So for now it seems to be possible to get the data from a new cartridge, store it and once the cartridge is empty, reflash the chip and put new resin in.
The data seems to be two separate hex strings. If there is an error in the first string, the F2 will wipe it but keeps the second string so I guess that’s the checksum part?
Alright, tried some more.
I checked the code and milliliters before starting a print and after the print. You could see a difference in milliliters.
Then I reflashed the memory and now my tank shows the original milliliters used!
Before (1442.2 ml):
43002255 79EDBC06 E07AA077 6D32EAA0 A387BB79 FC590ECA B38CD90C 5686A35D E129A3C5 74E1EBD1 A41D0FFF FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF 01BA6DC6 66DA94CB 639ADEB5 9A010E0A FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF FFFFFFFF 00000000 00550000 00000000 00000055
As you can see, the first set of bytes stays the same and only the second 16 bytes change value. I guess the first contain resin type(FLGPWH02), possibly cartridge ID and original volume(1000ml)
Any genius wanna help to dig more?
I don’t see a difference in the second hex number? Are you referring to “79EDBC06”?