I’m sure Fred got his today as well. They gave us VERY detailed instructions on how to get the chemistry correct. I will copy and paste it here for whoever is interested:
"The resins do not contain any photoinitiator nor any blocker to give you room to play with step by step additions. We recommend you to add FT1 or FT2 in steps of 0.1%.
Our calculations estimate you will need 0.25-0.5%% total. An excess will result in overgrowth and bleeding, so the use of Light Blocker LB1 will be needed in gradual step additions of around 0.5-1% dosage. An excess of LB1 above 3% may block cure and prints may not print, if this happens more FT1 eg 0.1% can be added to adjust kinetics while minimising light penetration with the blocker.
FT2 is as twice as reactive as FT1. Avoid direct room and day light with both (FT2 is more sensitive to visible light).
The use of the blocker is not necessary in pigmented systems.
Note:Our fastest resins are the UHT and UHF and so need higher dosage of LB1. HF has a medium reactiviy so LB1 will be needed at less dosage. F, S and E versions exhibit slow kinetics and low light penetration problems so, minor dosage of LB1 will be necessary to avoid bleeding.
We hope you enjoy playing with our 3Dresyns. Once you get your optimum dosage of FT1 or FT2 and LB1 for each product we can add it to our 3Dresyns for your next orders…
Once you receive your order please add the custom color paste to the coloring base gradually. Do not over color it to avoid excessive light filtering. The coloring base is translucent and a bit viscous, but flows well (do not worry, it was intentionally designed like this,…) and will keep the pigment stable without any sedimentation for long time . Add the Fine tuner FT1 is increasing steps of 0.1%. LB1 will not be necessary in the pigmented resin.
We will send you for free for testing a bottle of clear 3dresyn UHF without any pigment stabiliser. This resin will have much lower viscosity and will be very clear. Physical properties will be the same for both, the coloring base UHF and its clear versión."
Missed the truck by 1/2 hour so I’ll be getting mine today.
I got a variety pack of most of the standard materials (hard down to elastic) so I’ll capture the mix ratio’s for most of the resins in the first batch. They also sent me the LB1 blocker.
The basic color kit description is 2L of resin, basic colors and mixing bottles. All for about $200 plus shipping. Even if shipping was $50 that’s a fairly good deal if it’s 2L (I suspect it’s 1L lost in the translation).
I have a RC car bumper that I’ll be printing in all of the materials. It’s a small print with both thick and thin walls. I can also impact test it on the car to see how well the materials hold up.
Starting to get things tuned in with the 3Dresyns. So far so good with the second part being very close.
As expected, the clear needs the light blocker to work. Based on what I see colors will probably need some blocker but probably not as much.
I’m printing in open mode for now with grey V2 settings.
The HT resin is a lot like durable. It does seem to be more shatter resistant though. Probably won’t get to the other resins until this weekend. The color kit did come with 2L of resin.
I have 2L of the hard and flexible (a little softer than durable) and started with that.
Trial 1 was with 0.3% FT1 and no blocker or pigment. This was a little under exposed but close. There was plenty of extra laser penetration.
Trial 2 was to add 0.1% more FT1 and add LB1 at 1% (shake well!). This part had good detail and adhesion to the platform but was still getting a little too much laser penetration.
Trial 3 was nearly a success 0.4% FT1 and 1.6% LB1. This only had slight laser penetration issues and would probably be good for resin with some pigment added.
Trial 4 was with Ultra Hard & Tough. I started with the settings from Trial 3 and the part was very close. Exposure was good with only a little extra laser penetration.
This may change as we go but so far my recommended starting points for these resins is 0.4% FT1 with 2% LB1 if you don’t have any pigments. This will likely be a little short on the LB1 so test with a small part.
Here are pictures of the best parts. You can see the laser penetration issue on the bottom edge of the part (should be parallel with the top)
3Dresyns has been working fine. You just need to tune in with a few small prints and it works really well. There are also a bunch of specialty resins that I haven’t tried yet (a couple of ceramics and some other interesting mixes).
The hardest material is a bit soft for me but the material works fine. The hardest material is similar to Durable Formlabs. I’m in the process of buying a house so I haven’t been printing much lately.
The LB1 from 3Dresyns works well in the Bucktown material. I also used pigment in mine.
My wife just got done with her first 3D print - took about 6500 hrs, but totally worth it! Needless to say that’s where I have been, but back to work on Monday
Just wanted to post another update on 3D resyns. I was able to tune in the hard flexible resin and get good prints. The material is more like Formlabs Flexible except quite a bit less expensive.
I started with the mix ratio from the hard and tough and added a bit of pigment to the mix. Adding some pigment made things a bit more forgiving and I got pretty good results. even on the support side.
Thank you for your helpful post.
I am ready to start experimenting with NEXTDENT Clear resin. I noticed on your spreadsheet that you had success using open mode with SG settings.
Could you elaborate on specific settings that you used please. Eg (average temperature of resin etc…)
For NextDent Ortho Clear, I just use Open Mode and Dental SG profile in Preform (.05mm resolution is the only option I think) and that’s it! You can’t control the temp on the Form2 anyways, so need to worry about that.
Some tips:
Print as many guards as you can at a time, much more efficient.
Try to orient guards so there are no supports on the intaglio, and minimal supports on the direct occlusal surface. I find I have the least amount of post processing when the supports are kinda lined up on the inner or outer line angles of the occlusal surface (where the buccal or lingual flange meets the occlusal).
I have found that for the absolute best fit, you should post-cure the guard on the dental model with the supports still on. If the model is not available, just cure with supports on. The supports are MUCH easier to remove while in the “green state,” so I have been experimenting with removing supports while it’s still green, then putting the guard on the dental model and curing.
I haven’t really found a consistent way to polish the guard to translucent, so if you end up finding a good solution please let me know.
Upon delivery, soak the guard in “insta-hot” water for 15-20 sec before inserting.
Good luck and let me know if you have any other questions!
PS I would suggest looking into the legal aspects of using an FDA biocompatible resin with the Form2, that was not manufactured by Formlabs, before you deliver anything to patients.
wow you all excellent work. just got my form2 a few weeks ago and was also concerned with the cost of resin. it looks like for price the buck town looks pretty good thank you all for the hard work I sent them an email like yoderkl said. congrats on the new addition yoderkl! I may look into ordering some of that slow cure buck town soon.
my question your you all is why are we not filling the old cartridge from form labs when using the form 2? it was mentioned early in the thread (yes I read the entire 294 posts) but didn’t seem like anyone gave an official reason why it wouldn’t work
in the closed mode (as opposed to open mode), resin level sensor of form 2 is activated. this sensor is based on electric resistivity, according to formlabs. Well, bucktown resin has different resistivity than formlab resins, and the sensor fails. actually the form2 somehow detects the failure and displays an error message.
Omg wow that’s intense!! Sheesh I don’t blame them but seems like weight would have been so much easier definitely keeps their resin at the top of the list for use. Then how does the machine detect when you have got to 100ml and then pause when using the 3rd party resins ? Is it just default to pause in open mode when you have used 100ml of resin?
There is no detection. the machine stops after 100ml. This is pretty annoying if you print something bigger than 100ml: you need to come back to the printer and press the button even if the tank has enough resin.
Measuring by weight, I think that can be problematic in terms of z-calibration, as the common measuring tool is based on spring. is there a way to measure weight without changing height?
Dang good point didntvthink about that … you could place a bobber in the tank that floats and as the resin depletes it calculates height but obviously they would have to include that in the build which they wouldn’t
