Freund container is the best source for bottles in the US that I’ve found.
I use metal cans.
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Ok, really excited now!!! if the clear slow cure overcures so badly without blocker, maybe MAYBE with the same can I can print in the DLP too!!! Would this be the case, I’d be overjoyed… totally overjoyed!
Ordering another 2 cans (fast and slow) costs double the shipping… unsurprisingly… 
still it would cost less than 4 kg of FTD resin.
ANYONE IN UK AT ALL!!! AM I THE ONLY ONE LOOKING FOR RESIN IN THIS COUNTRY?!
I have a few of those bottles too to share, in 250 and 500ml. Bought in bulk from China came out much cheaper than single from UK. Anyway the best you get here are the AZLON amber bottles, wide neck, polypropylene
What DLP printer do you have?
Kudo Titan 1, hopefully soon upgraded to Titan 2 and possibly with a Kudo3d Bean by the side (soon on Kickstarter… or so they say). Ideally these should work with the same resins,even though the second is a UV LCD, to be exact
I also have a Photocentric LC10, but it uses their Daylight resin, so I don’t count it as DLP and it uses a normal LCD display, like the one in any monitor.
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Damn! You guys are making so much progress! Exciting times!!! 
Lol! I think there is a huge demand but no one dared to ask. I’d be happy to buy a full drum(and distribute it) if this material works.
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I told Carl to make a FormLabs Forum account so he could post in this thread, but I’m not sure if he will. Since he probably won’t, everyone that reads this post should e-mail them at:
And just say, “Hey I saw a thread on the Formlabs forums and people are getting really decent results with your resin. If you ever release a resin specifically designed for the FormLabs machines, I would buy some”
It would show interest and demand without committing to buy any up front.
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For what it’s worth, I halved the mixture AGAIN, so I am down to 156mg/500mL. Will post back on results.
That’s very little UV blocker! It kind of makes sense somehow. If 1 liter needs just 1.6g and supposing there is already some in the resin, 160mg in 500ml is in the region of 20% of what is needed.
Very lousy and inexact maths considering it’s another resin not for laser etc…, but it gives a ballpark figure.
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I should make it clear that the resin really isn’t “over cured”. It is just cured too deep (way past the 100 micron layer height).
With the other resins that did over cure I had huge issues with the PDMS clouding within a print or two. The Bucktown I have shows no signs of clouding after 3 prints in the exact same spot (same file 3 times). This is what makes the Bucktown so encouraging.
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Very good clarification. I have noticed the same resilience of the PDMS with Buck. I have that solid square mount I’ve printed the exact same way, in the exact same spot (trying to help with comparisons) at least 4x and I can barely make out the support spots.
It seems to me that the material might be on the brittle side, but then again my last 3 prints had too low of a curing depth (which makes me wonder, if I dropped to a lower z resolution would that work with this same concentration?)
No it will not.
What would be interesting to try is to see if other higher energy settings work. Like tough resin. Or durable for it’s low peel speed.
Why are you interested using the resin profiles that have the slower peeling speed? Do you see something in the pictures that lead you to believe something is going screwy with the peel? I feel like it would take twice as long to print with the same result?
Why not? If the energy of the laser in not quite enough to successfully penetrate 0.1mm, might it theoretically have enough depth of cure to achieve success at 0.05mm or 0.025mm?
If you consider that the original FL resin works the same at every resolution, it means that the scanning speed/laser power are adjusted to compensate for the higher/lower layer resolution, so without a change in formula the result theoretically is always the same. Right @fantasy2 ?
Higher energy settings might instead compensate for the excess of UV blocker. Slower peeling on the other hand would maybe just make the model less likely to fail because of the suction force on the PDMS, which causes falling from the buildplate or separating from supports. If I could I would implement a bit of both and ideally with my F1+ and Preform OpenFL I can, but then I wouldn’t know the settings for all the parameters, so it would be kid of starting the test from scratch.
FORMLABS!!! RELEASE THE PROFILES FOR THE F1+ NOW THAT’S OUT OF PRODUCTION PLEASEEEEEE!!! At lease a couple of profiles, or a value range… or a hint or something 
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EP200 Buck with 1/16th the original concentration (1.25 g/500mL), approx 150-160 mg/500 mL. Clear V3 profile.
To be honest, I think it can be cut one more time, maybe even more. No signs of thick supports or deepened cure depths. In fact, the supports are VERY easy to remove, almost too easy, which lead me to believe I could cut it one or two more times.
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From the pictures is looks like you still have deformation at the beginning and some warpage as well. Slower peel might help in that case.
Oops sorry, was in a hurry when posting it and read that you wanted to just lower the Z-axis. I expect it won’t be as effective as you’d hope as laser intensity is probably adjusted as well to cure thinner layers.
Exactly. However, I was suggested by another company that the addition of a lot of pigment will inhibit cross linking depth. Especially when post curing, resulting in parts that still have a “green” core. So, this would make me guess that when this is happening, 50 micron layered prints might keep their shape better than 100 micron layers.
This is the general issue I’m observing with the resins I’ve tested. It is easy to get them to cure to the right dimensions when the cross section and therefore peel force is small. But as soon as you print larger parts, supports start to become semi-flexible and flex during each layer resulting in printing errors.
Did any of you tried tall supports already? How do they feel when they come out of the machine? Like FL or more flexible?
Another solution to this might be to increase photoinitiator. I have a report that suggests that there is a maximum amount of photoinitiator you can add before it starts to reduce the cure depth.
It starts to look really good, but how straight are all the walls and corners? Some don’t look very straight but that might be caused by the camera.
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That looks super encouraging. I think once we get the proper ratio we can convince Bucktown to add the inhibitor before we get the resin. Maybe even as clear only with dye available for us to color the material ourselves.
I placed one of the parts I printed in a post cure last night. It doesn’t fluoresce so there probably isn’t much if any photo inhibitor in the mix. You probably are still a little rich at 1.25g/500mL (the autodesk recipe would be about .8g/500mL) Halving it again might be a little too far.
Sigma Aldrich wasn’t nice enough to approve my order so I’ll need to find an alternate source.
Full Build Plate - Buck EP 200 1/32 the original concentration of BBOT (approx 75-80 mg/500 mL) with a few drops of green dye, and a couple pinches of glow in the dark powder:
I will finish post processing and report back on material properties and support removal! Lets go!!!
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wow, just wow… That’s looking really good.
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