The new Bucktown resin came with an extra vial of dye.(very small vial). Printing a couple of small parts with clear V2 settings now.
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Same for me. They included some magenta dye and left a note that said
âYou may add this to the ZVE200 and the ZVE500 to change the slopeâ
I have a small part printing on V3 Clear. I canât wait to compare @FredB!
âŠdiagonal supports are looking pretty thick⊠I hope its just dripping resin!
The bad news, my part was exposed too deep. Cure depth was about 7mm.
The good news, there was no fogging of the tray unlike some of the other resins Iâve tried.
Dumped all of the dye they sent in the can they sent along with what was in the resin tray, shook it up and hit print again. Hopefully it helps. Iâll know in about an hour and a half.
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How did you estimate the cure depth?
I measured how far past the part the material cured. Itâs actually closer to 5mm but itâs a bunch.
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How did it turn out? Are you running a Form1+ or Form2? I probably would have started with putting the dye in a smaller amount first, like 250 - 500 mL. 4 kilos of resin is a lot of resin and that tiny vial had a very small amount of dye in it, but I really hope itâs as plug and play as that!
(My first print is hanging upside down on the build plate at work, taunting me from my webcamâŠ)
Cure depth 7mm? 5mm? Iâm afraid I canât follow you⊠Are you saying that a part that, for example, is meant to be 10mm tall, came out 15mm? What do you exactly mean?
Thank you 
Here is a picture of the cure depth. I measured the distance the resin cured past the actual part.
The supports are actually really close to the correct diameter and the material doesnât act as over cured as many of the other resins Iâve tried.
Last night I also tried adding some pigment to the mix. It was much better for the cure depth but scattered the laser. The part was not very accurate with pigment.
The dye that they provided did make a difference and would be a great way to fine tune a batch of resin. But, I think a photo inhibitor is the way to go to fix this problem. Might look at it a little today if I get a chance.
WOW!!! You meant 5mm! Pigments need to be the right color, the best one being red and black. Dyes are a good solution, but I feel we are getting closer and closer to the solution!!!
From the bottom of my heart THANK YOU ALL who are investing money and time in testing resins and stuff for people like me to SAVE TIME and MONEY 
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Left: Bucktown EP200 Clear straight out the can (Clear V3)
Right: Bucktown EP200 Clear with 1.25g/500mL of UV Blocker
Makes a very big difference. The part failed because it undercured, so I should have used even less than 1.25g/500mL.
Right now I have half of my 1.25g concentration mixed with half of 100% Buck, theoretically halving the concentration, in the printer right now, same part, same orientation. Will post back.
I just ordered UV blocker as well.
I was looking at the autodesk recipe (uses BBOT) and it doesnât take much blocker at all. (0.16% by weight). So assuming 1mL = 1g - 500mL would need about 0.8 grams of BBOT. The blocker I see above is a bit different so it probably acts differently. (Edit: the blocker I ordered is a synonem for the same thing you guys ordered)
Even with the UV blocker itâs still pretty cheap.
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.[quote=âFredB, post:214, topic:11312â]
Even with the UV blocker itâs still pretty cheap.
[/quote]
I totally agree. Just some quick math, forget shipping and tax for just a sec:
$56 - for the UV Blocker in the amount that I got (you can get a smaller amount for like $25, lets just go with $100 and it will last you a lifetime.
$100 - for the Bucktown Resin 4L
$10 - Resin Dye Pack
$166 for 4L of decent resin that works, in any color you want.
$41.50 / L â> Nice.
With taxes and shipping maybe $60 / L tops.
E-mail from Bucktown:
Kevin,
The EP200-V420 is the lowest cost 3D printer resin on the market. We are
able to do this since we typically ship resin in 200Kg drums. We make a
few available for applications like yours in 4Kg cans.
You have picked a tough challenge for your experiments with 3rd party
resins on the Formlabs printer. A clear resin used with a light source
for curing in the visible spectrum.
If you add the dye sent youâll quickly see that the EP200 will work well
with the Formlabs. We havenât tested the EP200-V420 in clear with the
Formlabs. You might be the second person to ask us for a compatible
resin in clear since their printers came out.
We can make a clear that is specifically made for them if there was an
actual demand for it.
We can send you some neat clear resin to use as a reducer to reduce the
slope of the clears that you already have.
Best regards,
Carl Wang
Bucktown Polymers
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I think if the photo blocker works we could probably get Buckktown to add that formulation for our specific printers. With the price I would expect a fairly high demand.
I actually like their dye colors. The translucent prints open up some possibilities with lighting.
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Where did you order from? Stateside?
Yes, from Sigma Aldrich. It wasnât as cheap from there but itâs coming out of Milwalkee.
Shipping from UK was pretty expensive. My $50 material ended up costing me $100. Thanks Fred!
3rd Print: Bucktown EP200 Clear V3 on Form2
Left: 2nd Print Failure due to undercuring
Right: 3rd Print Failure (but getting very close) due to undercuring. I believe this is the case because a few of the supports detached from the part, but not all.
I halved the mixture again, essentially quartering my initial concentration. I should be printing with approximately 312 mg / 500 mL currently. Will post back the results. Hopefully I will be in ânormal curing territoryâ and can start adding dyes!
Also for anyone considering getting the Bucktown, I would highly recommend these:
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