Form 1 / 1+ / 2 3rd Party Resin Settings Master List

I’m tempted to order the slower resin before I see your results. Even if it’s only good for small prints and test parts the price is great.

Total cost for me was $120 for 4KG. That’s an insane price.

The other Bucktown works, but it takes a little finessing to get it perfect. The only problem was that had too much cure depth. I’m really really hoping this slower curing version will take prevent the minimal adjustments I had to do to the original resin.

Here are some recent pictures of the other Bucktown prints (I have been playing with different concentrations of pigment, dye, UV blocker, and other glow in the dark powders etc:

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so what’s your suggestion to solve the problem?

could you please tell me which pigment should I buy?!

Just to be clear, I’m not sure this will work or not, but if you would like to try and risk ruining some resin, then here are two sets of pigments that are meant for 3D printing resins:

  1. MakerJuice https://makerjuice.com/collections/pigments
  2. FunToDo https://www.imakr.com/us/en/resin/673-fun-to-do-pigment-set-4-x-20ml.html

Let us know what you decide to do!

Also, did you try Clear V3 profile? I saw in the other thread you tried V2. In fact, before I started adding pigment I would probably just try all the other different standard resin profiles first, like Black and White, just to see if the slight change in exposure settings would correct your issue.

@yoderkl Pretty nice that shade of red in the print, the effect it makes with light.
You you be such a star and share the concentrations of UV blocker and pigment? I am looking at the slow cure, so settings would be different, but it’s still interesting to have a guideline.

@fantasy2 you were saying about a EU buy group… do we want to make it happen? I want to ask Bucktown for a quote to ship over here in UK. I have been looking at the resin from some other Chinese clones and after shipping and tax it comes out more expensive than buying the original FL resin, until you buy 8 bottles or more… nonsense

Last resort, which I haven’t read of on the forum, are Spot-A materials. They don’t come much cheaper though, in particular for a single bottle ( EUR 130 - £110) But anyone tried these at all!?

@Polariz3D I don’t have any solid concentration recommendations at the moment, but some guidleines that I have had success with are:

  1. I used 30-40 drops of FunToDo Black pigment with 500 mL of Clear Bucktown, and was getting good results.
  2. I am still testing the UV Blocker, but I would start with 1.5g with 500 mL of Clear Bucktown, and then add pigment/dye/glow in the dark powder/silver pearl powder/etc. from there.

My Protocol:

  1. Start with a small test print with Clear V3 profile that has at least one diagonal support, and possibly an unsupported overhang.
  2. If the diagonal support looks too thick, that means the resin is overcuring, and the cure depth needs to be reduced and you need to add more pigment or UV blocker.
  3. If the part fails by breaking off from the supports, or the raft does not adhere, then usually that indicates an undercure and the depth of cure needs to be increased, so you need to add more Bucktown Clear.
  4. At a certain point you will be getting nice acceptable prints, but there is some further tweaking to do.
  5. If you notice the supports are very difficult to remove, then the resin is still overcuring and you need to add more pigment.
  6. If you think you have added just a hair too much pigment, and it just barely failed on Clear V3 (ie. the part prints successfully to about 75% and then eventually dislodges from the build plate) then you can try a different resin profile like Grey or Black or Castable.

I am just finishing an 11 hour print with my mix of Bucktown Clear with UV Blocker and red dye (don’t know the concentrations due to not recording the steps I took above)

@yoderkl
Great!!! Thank you!!

BuckPolymers also just got back to me. Shipping of a 4kg can to UK is $105, making a total of $204 per can, $51 per kg plus tax… just under £50 give or take.

If it works, even including dyes, pigments and UV blocker, then it’s a bargain!
Again… Anyone willing to split in half?

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Yeah, if this stuff works then I’d be happy to buy a can. But, I need to know if it works. Can’t afford spending more at the moment.

I hope @yoderkl can show more of this resin. First results look really, really nice! How are the dimensions? Can you share the form files? I’d be interested in printing this same thing in photocentric resin as well so we can compare.

I understand, makes total sense. Though if the Photocentric is made to work, then this would be even better for me… although this water rinsing resin never gave me the same finish of the IPA-rinse one (I have a Photocentric LC10 with their daylight resin)

Sounds maybe cheap that I’d like to see if it works first but I have more than 1000 euro of useless resin. :frowning:

Photocentric was so nice to send me two types of prototyping resin which I am testing now, hopefully with good results. yoderkl also sent me half of the UV-blocker which is very nice as well(thanks again!!), which enables me to test photo centric resins with tough and durable settings(both settings have a lower peel speed which might be key to this resin).

Here is the above print fully cured and in use! As far as the STL goes, it’s not perfect and I had to do some significant grinding to get everything to fit properly, so if you want it, you can have it, but it is still a work in progress, and I will post it publicly once I am happy with it. The other thing to note is, I would NEVER attempt an 11 hr 180 mL print with any of the FL resin, if I wasn’t 100% sure about the part. Using the Bucktown Clear Mixes, I can kind of “pre-prototype” my big prints first, modify as needed, and then print with nice FL resin once all the kinks are worked out.

My bucktown orer shows as delivered so I’ll be playing with some resin this evening.

Thinking about trying the durable profile first for the slower peel.

Did you get the new cheap stuff (slow cure version)?

Yes, I’ll post results on here once I have some results.

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Your part seems to be suffering similar issues as the photo centric resin. Did you post cure it? With or without supports?

awesome!

Post cure without supports. Also, to save on resin, I hollowed out every single aspect, so that might be why you are seeing some warping. Also, I did not use any care at all when removing supports :slight_smile: