I am getting excellent results with Grey Pro/LT tank, not a single issue to speak of… except the raft removal.
Getting Grey Pro rafts off the plate is by far the most difficult part of the process. Using the provided “crowbar”, or really any tool, results in local chunks of rafts being removed but the remaining whole is locked fast on the build plate. Tried cooling it off, and the flush cutter trick does the same thing. The only way I’ve found to reliably clean it off is clipping the printed parts off the rafts, and using the spatula to literally chisel the rafts off.
Increase Z-offset on the machine until rafts become easier to remove. That did the trick for Grey Pro for me and I haven’t had any issues with other resins not adhering (mostly used Rigid, Grey, Durable and Tough since the modification)
Along the likes of John’s questioning, to better understand this, it would be helpful to know how thick a 5 mm cube comes out when printed on the build platform. Also, at what layer thickness are you printing?
Ill try the cube. Just did another print this weekend, but with the z height adjusted up one step, no determinable difference. Ill increment it again for the next one.
I find that with several resins they tend to adhere more strongly with each successive print run.
I think its because tiny traces of cured resin remain in the mircoscratches on the build plate, and create an ever improving mechanical bond.
A user on here advised regularly sanding the surface of the build plate with a 100-150 wt. sandpaper and subsequent ISP wash… and so far that seems to keep the problem to a manageable level.
I don’t sand between every print, but whenever the prints start to show stubborness in removal.