This is definitely going to void your warranty

[eaelec]

The resin tank contacts on the carrier plate of my Form 2 had been gradually failing. It got so bad that just closing the lid on the printer would cause it to lose contact with the tank. Then I would have to pull out and re-insert the tank numerous times until contact was restored. Then one day it failed and no amount of pushing and pulling could fix the problem. So …
Top of Carrier Plate

[eaelec]

Bottom of carrier plate

[eaelec]

Top of PCB

[eaelec]

Chip on the bottom of the tray

[fantasy2]

lol yes, your warranty is definitely void now.

Why didn’t you just buy a 2 euro replacement contact and solder the new one on? They are available at farnell and mouser.

[eaelec]

Connection on the side of the tray, just plug it in and it works!

[eaelec]

Yes I thought about that, but I was not sure I could remove and replace the surface mount spring loaded contacts without damaging the circuit board.

[eaelec]

And the first print after the repair, truck cabs at 25 microns:

[CraigBroady]

Clever…how did you get the tank carrier leveled to the build platform?

[eaelec]

It’s fairly simple if you own one of these feeler gauges that mechanics used to use for gapping spark plugs. Before removing the carrier plate:

A. Remove the resin tank.
B. Set the printer to open mode.
C. Start a print, the build plate will come all the way down.
D. Unplug the printer.

measure the gap between the build plate and the carrier.
After replacing the carrier plate, bring the build plate down again and adjust the gap so it is the same as before at all 4 corners.

[tmarquis]

Hi, So I removed the build plate to clean up a resin spill and had no idea that doing so would mean I would have to recalibrate everything. What should I do if I never had a starting measurement? Thanks!