Resin Qestions

Hi everybody,

Is ok to store resin in the build platform when not in use?

My first print was not successful unfortunately. I experienced model parts stuck to the bottom of the resin tank. I removed the part (before seeing the trouble shooting section in support.) I basically followed the steps they suggested except at the end cleaned the resin tank with IPA. Does this damage the silicon layer on the tank?

Thanks in advance,


Hi again everyone,

After looking through the forum and the help section found my answers. Hopefully I didn’t mess up my resin tank.

Anyhow thanks!!


Glad you found the answers to your questions! In case anyone else sees this thread, yes it is alright to store resin in the resin tank when not in use. The resin will remain good for several months due to the protective orange UV cover (make sure to keep it down).

We do not recommend using IPA on the silicone layer as the liquid can seep underneath the silicone and cause bubbles. If you do accidentally use IPA, make sure to allow all the liquid to evaporate before using the tank again.


Great thanks for your response. I have a few follow up questions.

Attached are a couple images of some of our first prints! We’ve had some relative success and are really excited about the potential but as you can see there are some issues with the consistency of the finer detail of the prints. I am using a model with a fair amount  of spacial intricacy as a way to better gauge layer thickness, minimum size limits ect.  Am I experiencing the parts that are too thin?

The pieces look good in some areas but in others are too thin and break apart. The last print I used the new preform software / auto orient and had best results. Is there a way to estimate minimum thickness we can print with the best results?

Lastly, we will be using the Form 1 in an architecture firm  and most of our models will be scaled down relative to drawing size and details. I have figured out a way to do it (using a little algebra…) but am wondering if I am missing something in the stl translation? Is there a simple way to align the units so they scale appropriately from Revit to Preform software?


Brian Hearn

William Duff Architects


I see the answer of my question too,  I can’t bare the smell of my IPA liquid hand soap and I definitely don’t want my form1 has the same smell, One of my prints had been applied the IPA liquid hand soap and it is sting now, I rather use alcohol now, I use IPA hand soap since I couldn’t get pure IPA locally and the hand soap is 70% IPA so I think it has the same function and it did, unless there is a small that kills. I wonder if pure IPA sting too? Can any one tell?

I want to remind you something important which I found on my prints, yes the auto orient is great, it product less defect BUT I found the accuracy problem when using auto orientation,  There was wrap happened near the support side and the whole model bend in an angle, Did you check the model you used auto orientation and see if the wall is complete straight up or it is bend? I want to know if it happens only to my printer.


The model wall was straight near the supports although closer to the support structure is where the thickness was variable and messed up.

My models seem to remain somewhat sticky even after the IPA rinse. What else can I do to fully prepare them for sanding and final finishing? Any tips?



@Brian Hearn

I personally have been using pipe cleaners to clean up my parts right as it comes off the printer and then after the alcohol bath.  They work great for getting the residue out of the fine lines that tend to give it that sticky feeling.

I get normal pipe cleaners that are about a foot or so in length and cut them in thirds.  Then just dip one end in the IPA and go to cleaning the part.  Seems to work great and it prevents the need to put your hands all over the part to get it clean.  It’s also gentle on the part so you won’t mess up the fine details.

I’ve been experimenting with an ultrasonic cleaner loaded with 70% IPA.

I do the initial rinse off and clean in the IPA bath, then I transfer the bits to a cheap ultrasonic cleaner 2/3 filled with 70% IPA (I’ll try it soon with 90% IPA, but for my initial testing, 70% is just a bit safer).

For safety reasons, I wouldn’t consider using the cleaner indoors when loaded with IPA as the combination of extra IPA fumes produced by the ultrasonic action and the risk of explosion from a non flame/spark proof rated cleaner. I take the cleaner out onto a fireproof board on the driveway, and run it on a long extension lead. If it does catch alight, then all I’ve lost is the cheap ultrasonic cleaner, whatever printed items were in the tank at the time, and about 500ml of IPA.

Two 5-6 minute passes in the ultrasonic cleaner seems to be good for doing the final clean. I then use a 15 watt black light florescent lamp to do a post cleaning final cure of the prints.


When dealing with models at a specific scale, you should first check that Preform determined the correct units of your model. You can change the units of a model in the settings drop down (click the gear icon). Then you can scale the model to the appropriate size by inputting a scale factor. With the model selected, click the second tool in the upper right (or type “S”) and type the scale factor to 3 decimal places.

For strong structural walls, 2mm is a good wall thickness. 1mm thick walls are more flexible and 0.5 thick walls are pretty delicate and should be handled with care especially during the support removal and washing steps. These guidelines and more are listed in the Designing for the Form 1 Guide:

As far as sticky prints go, make sure your washing alcohol is as strong as possible (90+% IPA is best) and is relatively fresh. Soak parts in IPA for at least 10 minutes and agitate. After removing the part from the wash bucket, it still needs time for the alcohol to evaporate. When the part is fully dry in an hour or more, it should not feel tacky. If it does feel tacky, spraying it down over the wash bucket with fresh alcohol (from the spray bottle) can help.

I’ve been reading in these forums about using UV light after the wash/rinse phase to both remove any surface stickyness and to better control the part curing phase. There were 2 products suggested, a UV LED grow light and a UV LED stage light. I googled for the same and found plans for a DIY array. My electronics skills are a bit light, so I am going to buy a few UV LED grow lights and create a light tight box to “Light bake” the parts post rinse. I’ve got 2 kids to taxi around outside of working, so don’t hold your breath to read my report on the light bake box.

I used a 15watt black light because I already had one in the house. You’ll find these tubes in places that specialize in party supplies. This time of year they are quite common in places that sell stuff for Halloween. You can also find them in pet stores as they are used to make pet “accidents” glow to assist in spot cleaning. These tubes are relatively safe as their UV output is relatively low.

Grow lamps should work well. There’s also a higher specification version of the grow lamp used for UV cure photo polymer printing plate production. Similarly, the tubes used in tanning beds should also work well.

Another florescent lamp to consider is the tube used in UV EPROM erasers. I built a couple of those for work that used a special15watt florescent tube without any phosphor coating on the inside of the glass. These are relatively dangerous to the eyes, and produce a lot of hard UV that can cause conjunctivitis if you look at the tube for too long when it’s on.

Also look at tubes used as bug attractors in high voltage bug zappers, and the tubes used in some of the cheap “counterfeit money detectors”.