I tried printing essentially hollow cylinders with flanges using Clear V4.1 on a Form 3L.
After curing I always see some warping in the interior and flanges. The warping on the outside has always been where the supports were attached.
I’ve tried adding I’ve tried curing with and without supports but haven’t seen much difference. These pieces are meant to stack together and keep a seal (with gasjkets) so the warping is really compromising.
Right now I use the default cure setting for the Clear V4.1 which includes preheating at 60C for 5 min. I’ve read that curing at room temperature can help prevent warping, is that true? Any other tips?
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We had some issues of parts warping with the High Temp resin during its full cure temp so we designed the part with temporary supports that we snip off after curing during post processing they were about thickness of a ink pen and then we sized it down ½ the amount where it connects for easier sanding. You could try something like that.
Did you ever try curing at a lower temp as well? I’m curious if that mitigates any heat-related deformation at the cost of longer cure times.
The thicker supports may help since I did see my supports start buckling while curing. Those were at default thickness settings in PreForm. Thanks for the advice!
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Hey @jfkas10 - I’m sorry you’re experiencing this warping, hope we can help - So, warping can be a sign that parts are not fully dry prior to post-curing. Any residual washing solvent/TPM/IPA can cause the part to warp and swell. Drying times can depend on their specific printing environment, but using compressed air to remove access IPA can really help. If your warping doesn’t go away with that, then I’d highly recommend you create a support ticket to work with our support team to learn more details and help you troubleshoot.
Don’t hesitate with more questions!,
Diana
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With The high temp I did everything that was recommended the intial cure in the Form Cure and the 3hr cure in our Cerakote Oven at 160c
There are two main reasons for warping:
-
Drying like @verdugod said (you’d be surprised how much you actually need to dry, blowing with compressed air is not enough)
-
Post curing at temperatures close to the HDT. Doing #1 eliminates warping at this step significantly but if you still get warping, you can cure without heat for 3x the duration. You don’t get to the full mech properties in the datasheet, but you get somewhere in between green and post cured.
I need to make a YouTube video about all of this soon 
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but with your material I would try the drying longer technic first then think about adding temporary support to the part in your actual design not using the preform supports for these additional supports and don’t clip these off until the part is fully cured.
Yep, lower temp can help, but you’ll need patience. Slower curing = less stress on prints. Maybe tweak exposure too?
@leonhart88 +1 to more Ember tutorials! 
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Maybe if Formlabs sponsors the videos somehow 
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