I have a model and would like for someone to print it for me. I’d like to see the fitment and quality of the print before I purchase this 3d printer. I can paypal for the material, time and shipping. I have the model in an stl file and need to see if the print is within my measurements.
Please let me know if you can help me.
Paul
Post the STL to this thread. No one’s going to volunteer without being able to look at the model… 
It’s for my project. I have the pcb. Just need the housing testing for fitment. I understand the the thread on the housings will probably not screw together quite well but that’s fine. I’m looking for correct circular and shape measurement.
If anyone is up for it, please let me know. Gray or black material preferable. Or whatever is harder/tougher.
Any help guys?
I think I can help you. Though I must warn you, I only have grey resin (not black) and a Form 1 (not Form 1+). I live in Colorado Springs if that helps you calculate shipping costs. It looks like it will take about 44 ml of resin to build (that comes out to about $6.60 in material cost. For time cost, just calculate in whatever you would pay yourself for half an hour of labor (I’m not picky or worried about being underpaid). Hopefully that will help you.
I am not sure I am the one you want help from though, since it sounds like you are looking to purchase a Form 1+, and I am unsure how the first generation of Form 1s comparatively match up. I think it is only a matter of the Form 1+ being faster at printing (due to more powerful lasers).
ShaneMans,
Can you message me? I tried to message you but I’m not sure where the function is located.
I’m fine with prints from a Form1 or Form1+. I’m after accuracy. The back part of the gauge is 51.8mm. I want to see if the print is on target or if it comes out oval.
Paul
I print a lot of mechanical parts in the 20-50mm size range. I can tell you that my Form1+ is very accurate, dare I say “balls on” accurate. Circles are round. Dimensions are accurate to a fraction of a mm.
Randy_Cohen,
That’s reassuring. Was it that accurate out of the box or did you have to adjust it. It the accuracy based on the resin type? What about material stiffness? Is it like abs or pla?
Paul
Accurate right out of the box. I’ve done clear and grey resin parts I know were equally accurate. I’ve done one part with flexible, but it wasn’t intended to be anything but a test print, I didn’t assess its accuracy. I’ve also done a number of prints with MakerJuice SF resin (grey) and those have come out beautifully, arguably better than the FL grey resin.
The FL resins are quite brittle. They’re fairly strong, but when they break they exhibit a glass like fracture. For a gauge pod, I expect the resin would be fine, but I haven’t had a lot of luck with load-bearing parts. I bought the MakerJuice because they claim to be more flexible than the FL resin, and that appears to be true. The same part printed in MJSF is more “survivable” than the FL resin.
None of the resins are at all like ABS (though I have some “Vorex” resin from yet another 3rd party supplier, that I haven’t tried yet). They’re more PLA-like in terms of brittleness. If you need impact resistance like you get with ABS, that’s not happening I’m afraid!
Ouch. I was hoping the material would be tough but I guess PLA-toughness would be acceptable. I’m now wondering how tough is the Vortex resin. When do you plan on doing some test?
Might get to it this weekend.
Okay. I’ll have to check out your post and comparison. Thanks
Here is the first test print of this housing. As you can see from the anomaly of the housing-case, it looks like my printer had a small support failure there. However, it still printed with remarkable accuracy for the rest of the part and the other two parts. Keep in mind, that to get an optimal print you will often have try a few times with a little tweaking here and there. Also, threaded models are their own bag of worms. Proper orientation and supporting is crucial to making them functional. It is also important to over/undersize the threads in the right amount when you are creating the 3D model in the first place.
This was printed in Version 1 Grey with 50 micron layers
Thanks ShaneMans. I’m not too worried about the threads right now. I’m going to make it coarse or may change it to bolt together.
Paul