I used Smooth-On’s Task 8 which is their high temp urethane good for 400-600F. I could have tinted it to be cooler looking but for now it is just a test prototype
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More like 250F 
but still very good, thanks for sharing
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Hmm thought the specs were higher. Thanks for looking that up wonder if the sheet I had was wrong? I’ll have to dig out the papers I have on it.
What’s a SAT file?
This? ACIS - Wikipedia
Standard ACIS text. Most cad programs can read them. Not sure why I can’t export a step directly from FormZ.
Link to the step file, guess I did have it in my long list of export types, just didn’t see it.
Awsome, thanks Master
My final uses thumb wheels I buzzed out on my metal lathe. Screws I ended up using were tapered Philips heads 10-24x1 1/2". I also made a small die to indent the metal plate and plan on using 16 gauge aluminum. Trying to keep it as sturdy and light as possible.
Thumb wheels in the model could be printed and threaded but not sure how gummed up they may get with raw resin on them all the time.
Please share any improvements on it if you can.
Also when using this my plan is to raise the platform as high as possible, send printer into a print cycle then open the lid and adjust it.
Once a print is done I don’t know how much the collected resin on top of the plate may be an issue so I do suggest toss a plastic bag over the tank and machine prior to removing the build platform if it looks like it has a lot of excess so it doesn’t drip into the machine. It may not be much of an issue at all, don’t know yet. If so I though of putting a piece of plastic that looks like a squat pyramid on top to help direct excess resin to drain off through the print cycle.
You know you can tune your offest via user ini right?
By how much? Tank I snagged off of Aliexpress had the pdms more than 3mm too low and software only allows +/- of 1 mm. Also the tank I purchased has a back that would be dangerously close to the build platforms armature that if lowered enough could possibly collide.
Other reason I thought having the build platform user adjustable physical should be faster than walking it in via software. It should also account for pdms that may not be perfectly level to the tank making it much more forgiving if users decide to recoat their own tanks such as Zvat and not have to ship them back and forth.
So, did you end up using the FEP film vat, or the standard vat?
Does the FEP film vat come with the film already, or you must additionally purchase the film for it?
I love the idea of still working with the original print platform from the F1+ and not have to tweak that.
Thanks for all the info you’re sharing!
Using the FEP vat, and I don’t think i’ll change it, unless I find miself needing to print some difficult details.
With the OpenFL Preform we can manipulate the pel speed so even Anycubic resin or decent LCD resin can be printer with the FEP vat
Fep Vat comes with 1 Film FEP i Think, but if you go there just buy a couple more, the FEP Peopoly Sells is good imho
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Just open the back panel and pull the SD card
Open the SD card in a PC or MAC and edit the user.ini to the offset you need.
I posted this in this at the top, I even dropped a link to a detailed photo album on how to do it Master.
If you didn’t read it I must be doing something wrong, do you think a video would help clarify this better?
As for the back it has to be modded to allow the arm to go in, its a easy mod and i rather do it than mess with my plate as i did in the photo album
Here are 2 of the photos showing this, card also holds the logs for your machine
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Ahh that’s where they hide the file!
Keep in mind that some the aftermarket tanks have similar wall heights on the tank but the pdms layer is much thinner. This means that even after adjusting the file that there may not be enough clearance for the head to reach the pdms without colliding with the wall and cracking it. Alternatively you could notch the back of the tank to allow room.
For those vats you do this small mod in the photo below
This is a Peopoly PDMS it must have that mod or else the arm hits the side. The offsets for each vat relative to the base I posted on the top of the post too.
You can check my adventures with the Form on this album, feel free to subscribe if you want:
(https://photos.app.goo.gl/cRBBhAM5fRQmBn516)
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How much did you lower the build platform in the file?
Ok, not sure if the tank I purchased is the same as the MOAI tank as I has snagged it from Ali Express. Good chance it’s the same thing direct from the manufacturer.
Thanks!
Just mesure like i did in the photo album with a comparator and see.
Your offset will depend on the reference vat that your Form is aligned to. If say you have it aligned to the official form vats your value for a MOAI vat will be +1.1 mm
Positive Values Make the Plate go lower, Negative make it go higher
Tank I have the PDMS is about 3.3mm lower than the F1 tank so it might be different than a stock MOAI tank as this one was for the Chinese version of the Form1+ that has some small differences.
When I get time I will check it out.