When my print finished it looks like it has some bubbles or holes, how can I fix that?
Which resin are you using?
White V3
Does it look like that green color in real life or is that just lighting?
How old is the tray? If the tray is too worn then the print could have some problems separating from the bottom which could cause the edges of the layer to be damaged.
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May I suggest Clear V4 or Grey V4? They are both better optimized for the thickness you are printing at. I can’t tell if this is the resin micro-boiling, or something else. Follow the suggested 1 Tray per 1-2 liters resin (Clear will easily go 2 liters, Grey, not always, due to the micro-heating from slightly longer exposure(?)). Also try to rotate positions in the setup to average out the exposure for each area of the tray. I am not sure about how stable the white pigment is, but quit using white awhile ago because it gave more errors (maybe it is better now).
Re: the resin micro-boiling: That will always be a problem with faster print times, and thus the potential for distortion. I used to be upset about the slow print times with F1+ and F2, until considering the level of distortion possible with the heat of the curing process, and the difficulty in evenly dissipating it in faster SLA type print systems. I think SLASH tried to address this. FL continues to work to optimize resolution and accuracy, but speeding up the print complicates that immensely, so they are smart about it. That is another reason to go with the 50u print for ortho models, and use either of those 2 resins, if you are not hollowing.
It is probably OK to print faster (100u) if you are hollowing, but not sure.