Fun To Do F1+ Resins

Fun To Do Resins has released resins formulated for the Form 1, 1 +, 2.

Now available in the US from www, or and internationally as well.

Are these well tested with the Form 2? The gallery on the web page doesn’t say much about the prints.
Has anybody independently tested them?

How can i buy in the UK?

I have tested F1 + with the form. 2

White did not work. The layers do not hold true, depend on the model and glued to the resin tank. I have destroyed the resin tank.

Gray worked. In open mode, 0.1mm. As seen in the picture. It is the first pressure. I can not say how reliable F1 + on the form. 2

I have further tested Fun to Do F1 + Resin. Gray works, but as can be seen in the picture, the quality is not good.

One can use F1 + gray print on the form 2, but there is no real alternative.

Looks like it cures too quickly

The FTD resins I’ve used in the past (with DLP) have been exceedingly fast curing - from memory, I think it was about 0.4s for a 25u slice, as opposed to about 4s for the Spot-A DLP resins.

Hi Stefan,
The F1+ blends are primarily designed to work on the Form1 and the Form1+ results are stunning on those machines.
The resolution is designed to work on is the 0.05 setting V01 color grey (in this case)
Cleaning should be done with a soft brush in alcohol for about max 2mins.
Have you stirred/mixed the resin? the color looks quite light for the grey…

This is a cooler body 10cm diameter and 10cm height

Same printed in F1+ Clear

Shackle printed for a strength test (see mov. on our facebook page.

Mould for injection mold machine printed in F1+ on a form1 60mmx60mmx20mm Capable of withstanding 225C

Hi Joe90
In the UK you can buy straight from our distributor (and Form1+ specialist) Peedie Models.

Hi Stefan

We are all quick to jump to possibly incorrect conclusions including myself, but what takes time is understanding the limitations of the printers we use, the models we are trying to make, and most important of all how to read a failed print.

For example the formlabs printers are not designed as heavy weight industrial printers, so when designing a large solid model you will be possibly placing the printer and part under great stress during the printing process and possibly trying to make the printer or resin work beyond its ordinal design specifications. If you have a large surface area to peal off the PDMS the level of suction between the part and bed increases exponentially. I had a part that failed and could slide it around the PDMS but getting it to release took some doing.

The next thing to think about with solid model parts is that as the resin post cures you will increase the risk of cracking due to the way the UV rays penetrate the resin, as I had with four ships funnels of 100mm X 25mm in size that cracked. This was resolved by redesigning the model and making them hollow using a 2mm wall, thus having a two fold effect of reducing the stress on the printer/part and the post UV curing challenge.

Another point to think about is print stability, most people think that a part needs to be rock hard and is finished once removed from the printer, this is a misconception. A part should be stable for handling and once cleaned the part is fully cured during the post curing process be it a UV chamber or left in strong sunlight, and depending on the resin colour and model size will determine the time required to complete this process.

Deck gun using Prototype F1+ black resin at 50 microns

During the testing process of the F1+ blends I learnt so much more about reading a failed print and making adjustments to correct the issues caused (even just tilting a part by 1 degree), and was testing the F1+ resins over a 5 month period in my form1+. The final blend was used to create a 1 metre long model ship to commemorate those lost at sea in WW1, the full story is at

HMS Hampshire - 1 metre long at a scale of 2mm to the foot

Looking at your frog print there are some things to consider:

  1. Solid vs hollow, was the model solid? Looking at the way it has cracked I would suspect this was the case and hence the stress fractures on the leg.
  2. Orientation, the way you made the print may not have been the best option, maybe printing the body first then legs afterwards could help reduce the stress on the more delicate items.
  3. Support material, using more supports at the same level and above the front legs on the body may have reduced the fracture, also orientation of the model as mentioned above may have helped?
  4. Layer height, F1+ has been designed for fine detail, so 50 or 25 microns may have been a better option? This family of resin is a completely different blend to the DLP blends as it has a reduced reactivity to make it work successfully in the form1 & form1+ printers as it was heavily tested on these units. With DLP printers you can change the exposure times to suit the resin in use, in the formlabs printers this has to be done through the chemical formulation and hence this blend has been designed from the ground up for these units.
  5. Layer banding, if this is common in all your prints this could be due to a misalignment of the galvo mirrors which is what happened to my form1+, if this is the case I would submit a support ticket.
  6. Damage to PDMS, this could be caused by the first layer being too thin. Any resin will potentially heat up slightly from the chemical reaction during the printing process resulting in an increased vacuum between the part and PDMS thus resulting in part sticking to the PDMS and possible failures, this also applies to the layers of large solid models (larger the surface area, higher the vacuum).

When I design a new model kit I use the form1+ for all the small detailing parts and any casting or injection points required or medium sized hollow parts, and a commercial DLP printer for the large solid items such as the walls of a building as it has a build area twice the size of a form2 and more flexibility with the exposure control, lift speed and distance. Both printers have had a lot time spent on trial and error to find the limitations of each machine and the resins on the market.

With these points in mind, hopefully this will help you analyse a failed print and increase your success rate with this excellent family of resins.

Do you have pictures of these models with the support still on them?

Which resin is the light blue?

Hi David,

Unfortunately I don’t have pictures of the blue prints with supports still on them.
The Blue resin is a heat resistant (225C), chemical resistant and strong blend, still in the Beta stage.
Also see this completely un-scientifically you tube movie about the strength and read all about it on our facebook page
If you just want to make a similar colour resin you can use the F1+ Clear with one or two drops of FTD blue.

I have several times F1 + gray tested in the setting Open mode 0.05 and can now say that the results are really good. With this setting, this resin is a good alternative.

Small negative characteristics are, need to dry it longer and the supports are slightly more difficult to remove.

Looks good. What version of printer did you test it on?

This topic was automatically closed 14 days after the last reply. New replies are no longer allowed.