Ok, thank you again. I still haven’t tried it because I was worried it would drip outside but if it works for you I’ll give it a try on the next print because this is really helpful.
No problem! I think we are all taking some time on this platform to help each other. And this is great for that. Specially when it’s going wrong… Ok… and for the good news too! We are feeling less alone.
You will see that the build plate hang up is not really stable, so be careful. Also, at the end, there will still be resin left on it. This is why I use a plastic spatula ( and holding the build plate ) to remove the most of it.
From my discussions with support, they really don’t know what the issue is so I think throwing out free tanks is all they can do right now.
They also seem to be tunnel visioned into the “invisible” tank issue/warping that some of you have experienced that they don’t seem to acknowledge the possibility of other problems.
For example the part I posted up earlier with extreme layer lines doesn’t look like the same tank warp issue that others have seen but looks like some other problem but they have not acknowledged that and don’t seem willing to do a test print on their end to verify.
I feel the same way. It’s basically “no idea but we’ll replace it”. Support only forwards the information to whoever deals with it and since a replacement is the only fix at the moment that’s what we get. In any case it’s good to have that until someone figures out what’s wrong and that, including building and distributing new supplies, can easily take up to a year so…
This is not very reassuring. A chance that some prints turn well.
There’s a new firmware update for the 3L.
Haven’t updated it but it doesn’t seem to bring anything new to fix our issues.
1.5.7 May 4, 2021
Compatible with PreForm 3.15.2 and later
Improved resin tank filling
Improved mixer behavior
Various bug fixes
Best print so far. I was able to get a pretty successfull print. I am happy as to how the supports seem to come off easier than the Form 2. The resolution is OK considering that it can only do .1. There is some sagging on the other side of the print but i think that’s my fault for not supporting enough in area and i didn’t quite model some stuff correctly. Will have to do more support editing. I reduced the support amount as well and went to 45 point size and it held fine. The cartridges seem to be reading correct. I printed this before the firmware update came out. I installed the update but doesn’t look like there is any resolution upgrade as of yet.
The seam line is there but is not as evident as i thought it would be. If i wasn’t looking for it i wouldn’t have noticed it. I think i am going to try using some of my tough 1500 to see if the print will come out cleaner. Surface quality isn’t to shabby.
Still a long ways to go but think i am getting there.
That looks very good! Congratulations. It’s good news.
This is Grey resin I guess?
Are you cleaning this with a soap or something?
Me, I will try Mean Green to see if it’s a possible cleaning solution for a safer big bath soaking.
Has anyone ever tried it besides “Uncle Jessy”? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tnGasVwkgMk
TPM is expensive and hard to find here. 18,9 Litres : 220$ canadian, or 180$ usd.
Supposed to last 3 times longer than IPA. Has anyone ever tried it ?
Nice! Looking good. Which resin is this?
Also @BILLUCAS - I haven’t used TPM specifically, bit I’ve tried DPM. I’ve heard they’re quote similar. DPM is really oily and I didn’t like that so I’ve actually switched back to IPA entirely.
It’s also easier to dispose of IPA because it can be recycled.
Thank you for telling us about DPM. Yeah, I’ve heard TPM was oily too. I wasn’t sure liking this.
I bought a 30L Ultrasonic cleaner… I want to try something safe inside it.
I used DPM in my ultrasonic for a while. I found that the ultrasonic would leave cavities on the surface of my print so I stopped doing that. DPM also works significantly worse when its cold and the heater in my cheap ultrasonic cleaner sucked so it wasn’t all that great.
I think if you have a good brand, expensive ultrasonic, it’ll probably work better, but I really didn’t like the oiliness. It also doesn’t evaporate very quickly, so I had to use a DPM then IPA bath which meant I had to keep two types of chemicals around, and didn’t like that either.
My Elma Supersonic P300H should arrive tomorrow (hopefully) and I’ll let you know how it went with TPM.
It’s printed in standard grey. I am not a fan of the standard grey. Think it is way to soft and it’s brittle as heck. I do like the Grey Pro but that dimensionally is not to good. Tough 1500 like i stated before works the best for me but of course is much more expensive.
I still am cleaning with IPA and using the big turkey basket.
Pretty successful array’ed Black print. I’m basically testing small arrayed parts along with large parts for each tank/resin.
Black seems to be pretty reliable thus far for me. Seamline is visible but not significant.
There are some weird spots on the back of each part, not sure what those are.
That looks great! Have no idea on the little spots. Can’t see it in my latest print but there is visual layer lines in some of the print. Nothing that can’t be sanded out but i am used to the prints off of my form 2.
Used the black a lot. I have not attempted a print with black on the 3L as of yet.
Yeah not sure on the spots either - but these parts turned out nicely and I’m more than happy with them!
So far my prints have been good, with the exception of the Draft parts that keep having extreme layer lines. Will try to figure out what’s happening there when I finish some of the other tests.
Some forms of alcohol can cause crazing on at least some forms of acrylic (AKA Plexiglas or Lucite). My limited experience indicates that crazing is worst with ethanol and extruded acrylic but don’t take that as gospel.
I too had this issue, a new tank was sent but not yet installed.
Seems to me that’s the go to thing…just install a new tank.
Well i have 5 new ones. First 3 were just as worthless.