Form 2 Build platform lifetime

Hi all!, a simple question, do you know the Form 2 Build Platform estimated lifetime?

It is only to make statistics.

Best regards,

Enrique

I have a Form 1+, and I’m still using the original build platform. Technically, I don’t see why they should not outlast the printer itself, there’s nothing to it but a piece of Aluminum and plastic. The locking lever gets a bit loose over time, but all I need to do is tighten the screw a bit.

I don’t know about the Form 2, but I would assume it’s the same thing.

2 Likes

Similar for the Form 2.

Well, I’m still using the same, original, build platform in my Form 2 and I don’t seen any wear on it yet. I do have a spare just in case but don’t expect to have to use it for a year or more maybe. As long as you don’t scrape the surface there is really no wear to it. Use the tool and leverage the piece up to remove them. Don’t scrape under them at all. I usually hold the parts with long self-closing tweezers and just lift when free.

So may be im using the wrong method here… I used the metal spatula as I think I saw this in the videos to quickly remove it from the build platform, but then there’s that black closed tweezer thing that … whats that meant to be?

The Form 2 comes with a black leverage tool which has a loop handle to it. The slight bend at the end is what you slip under the base of a build and then push down slightly on the handle to pop the piece loose. You might need to work it under the loose part and do the leverage again if the build base is large.

Don’t under any circumstances scrape the build plate.

The tweezers I use I bought from Micro-Mark. T have four or five of them in different configurations. They are sprung closed and far longer than the ones that come from FormLabs.

One other thing. Don’t keep the build plate out of the machine any longer than you have to. Cleaning it is also important. I wipe mine down with a dry folded piece of paper towel. This I throw in my bin for UV exposure hardening. I then wipe the build plate down a second time with another piece of folded paper towel soaked with IPA. Make sure you wipe the sides of the build plate. This piece of towel I set aside to dry and it’s what I use for the first wipe of the next dirty build plate.
Immediately put the build plate back in the machine and close it down. I do about 3 to 4 builds a day as I use my machine for production. I have a 99% success rate. I only use the Grey V3 resin and resin trays last close to four liters of resin.

Hope this helps.

I guess we all have slightly differing opinions on things, but as long as we are getting great results, to each their own…amirite?

I am about 170 prints in and have purposely not been careful when it comes to scraping the build plate. Mine is moderately scratched. Others on this forum have suggested scaring the build plate with sandpaper on purpose to increase adhesion.

In any case, I have a 98% success rate with nearly all of my failures within the first 10 prints.

Edit: oh and I forgot to mention it is my original build plate as well.

1 Like

I have a slightly different method. I use the metal spatula that came with my Form 1+, and I look for an area of the base that is elongated, that sticks out a bit. The reason for it, is that it’s likely to be more flexible.

I then use the spatula to lift the corner up enough to get the spatula under it, and the use side to side movements to further wedge the spatula under the base. When it comes off, it does gently, and it will stick to the spatula blade.

Since you’re running the spatula flat against the build platform, there’s no scratches to either the platform or the model.

Just a few days ago I stumbled across a vlog by someone “who works at Formlabs” who recommended using the cutters to remove prints. He slides them under various corners of the print base and closes them, popping the print off in one or two tries. I’ll try to find the link again, but I must say I tried this on the two prints I’ve made since seeing the video and surprisingly, it does indeed work.

This!

I’ve used this too with great success.

Why not?
Unless you’re printing directly onto it, and care about the finish, and as long as it’s kept clean, rough surface can only help with the adherence.

2 Likes

I have not had one print pull off the build plate. I print large and very small items. Fact is I sent ApplyLab some STL files that I’ve printed and they find them extremely small for their resin. Of course, when I print those type of pieces I put them on a sprue 6 or 12 up.

That’s interesting. I’d like to see those STL’s too. I recently (last week) printed some miniature skulls for my Warhammer 40K stuff. I was going to buy their Skulls box for $30, but thought better of it and printed my own. The skulls are about 4-4.5mm, some have jawbones, some don’t. I did a layout with 81 skulls, and printed them with ALW beige, and they came out perfect.

How small is the stuff you’re speaking of?

As these are products I design and sell I’d rather not provide the STL files.
One item, a steam whistle with actuation lever is 3/16" tall and all detail is there.
I’ll try and get a photo of some of them later today and post it.

Here’s a quick photo of some of those small parts. If you look close at the double davit you’ll see the bolts. Front row is two ships running lights, a fire hydrant and the ships whistle. All are in 1:87 (HO) scale and just a few of the details we include in our Ships Chandlers kit.

1 Like

While doing experimental work with filler materials, we milled tiny dove tail slots into the build platform so that the print would stick better to the platform. It worked perfectly!

For general printing: I clean the platform with acetone just prior to printing, exspecially for resins that tend to have less adhesion to the platform (e.g. Castable V2).

This topic was automatically closed 14 days after the last reply. New replies are no longer allowed.