Have you tried printing the part with the clear reain? I recently changed to clear after using gray and black. and I am getting consistant prints with no failures. Most of my prints are at 25 micron but last couple haace been at 50.
The added pigments are only for visual purposes and do nothing to the detail of the prints. You should be easily able to paint the parts any color.
I find this discussion of varying degrees of kung fu pretty interesting just because I have done plenty of clear resin prints at 0.025 just for personal entertainment if I didn’t care how long the print took. I’ve actually never had a failure at 0.025 and have never made any special effort. Come to think of it, every 0.025 I’ve printed I oriented to minimize support marks on the side I cared most about, auto generated the supports, and started it. Looking at your failures, I’m wondering if you’ve tried to set the size of the points on the model too small.
0.25 requires more peeling of finer layers. You are most likely to get a failed print over 1.0 if there is a weak area. It does look as though it has given way where the part gets thin. If re-orienting doesnt work I think your best bet is 0.50 and some fine sanding 
This topic was automatically closed 14 days after the last reply. New replies are no longer allowed.