Yeah, even the liquid seems to have little pigment specks in it (although it’s possible some of that got picked up from my previous use of the tank for the powdered mix). I expect something like UV Monomer Nano Pigment Dispersions would result in much cleaner tints (thanks @Kevin_Grisko).
My results did improve in both the powder and liquid mixtures by filtering. I used 226 micron paint filters, but I think a finer mesh would have been better still. My last test was with roughly 0.5% liquid dye concentration in Clear V2, printing under Clear V2 settings. If you trick the printer into thinking it’s stock resin, you can leverage the wiper and heater, which are really great for this kind of application (the dye prefers heated temperatures for better mixing, and the wiper helps keep the mixture homogeneous throughout the print) provided you monitor no splashing is occurring (at such low concentrations the dyes really don’t change the viscosity of the resin appreciably).
EDIT: Note the wall thicknesses in the first picture are a bit misleading. I printed the powdered sample on a Form 1+, and the other two on the Form 2, both directly on base. I didn’t compensate enough for compression loss, so the actual thicknesses are 1.6mm to 0.3mm for the powder, 2.5mm to 0.33mm for the 0.5% liquid, and 2.55mm to 0.42mm for the 5.3% liquid. The curl in the latter is because I post-cured the part in a UV oven and didn’t bother to flip it. The ones printed with the Clear V2 settings didn’t come out as tacky and I didn’t post-cure them.
So the bottom “brick” in the powder is roughly the same thickness as the third-from-bottom brick in the 0.5% tangerine sample (which helps explain why that sample looks so much more transparent). Also I printed the powdered sample at 200um and the other two at 100um layer height.
The visible “margins” around the edges are because I chamfered them for easier release from the build platform. You can see what I mean in the second photo, where I accidentally photographed that curled piece backward (oops).
I know I got a little off-topic here as the thread title refers to Durable, not Clear, but maybe this info will be helpful to anyone who stumbles across this thread in the future.