Hello !
Did anybody print with the 3rd party Anycubic resin on a form 2 ?
I would be very interested in your results.
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Anycbic resin is formulated for an LCD /MSLA printer, so with a laser it will over-cure dramatically, maybe to the point of the print failing.
Under the same light source, MSLA resin cures 6-8 times faster than formlabs resin, which means that in a Form printer it will be 600-800% overexposed.
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Hi Dudemeister, have you tried using anycbic resin using openFL? I havenāt had any luck with getting the raft to stick to the plate. (I have moved the home position of the plate from +1 to -1) What laser speed and power combo would you suggest? Knowing it is 6-8 times faster is a big help for my next experimental session!
I have used some āgodsaidā resin (Chinese) with the FL black01 resin type and it did stick and printed fully but was rough - not sharp features - hard to describe as I donāt know what over and under exposed looks like really. - I guess over exposed! Thanks for any help you can give. Cheers
I guess I should add some detailā¦ Form 1+ and material file setting for base perimeter and fill down to 20mw and 600mm/s was as far as I got, then I went backwards - not knowing the ā6-8 fasterā above!! - chasing settings until bewildered!!!
Could i just change the settings on my form2 to make anycubic resin useable?
Probably not. There is 3rd party resin specifically formulated for the Form 2, have you looked into this?
Since there is no way for you to control the laser output, itās not feasible to use resins designed for MSLA the model will be way overcured.
If youāre looking for cheaper alternatives to Formlabs, then look at ApplyLabWorks. They make resins specifically for use with the Formlabs Printers.
I agree to Dudemeister to advise taking a look for ApplyLabWorks resins.
For sure you also need the Universal cartridge to use it with the F3 but that combo is a WEAPON!
The latest Engeneer series is really perfect. Also it is possible to mix them with the model resins to color the prints to grey/black or TAN.
And these Enmgeneer materials are comapreable with Tough1500 or 2000 but in my opinion much better at least. AND the vat can still be used for 600h instead of only 300 with the FL resins.
AND I have no failures any more. Only using a longer curing profile: black.
GrayPro+Tough2000 failed a lot and it was a horrible money lost for me.
I was already thinking about switching to a LCD printer back again but with the ApplyLabWorks resins I am back on track now.
Cheers
Chris
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Hey, thanks guys. I am looking into both applylabworks and digitalforge. I have a ton of empty cartridges, so ill just fill them up and hope for the best. I was printing on a polyjet 3d printer and a few led sla 3d printers. Now i started a new job with a couple form2s and am trying to make their operation better.
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Let me know if you folks find any good alternative resins. I feel like Formlabsās quality control is not great; the cartridges are always sticky at the seams and the one that came with the printer was only half full. The color base had white chips of some kind of particulate (around 2-3mm) that showed up in the final print.
ApplyLabWork works great with the Form 2 and Form 3. They even have some engineering resins.
You are absolutely right about the over exposing - I found that out the hard way ! Bought the Form2 because I naively believed into OpenModeā¦ since I knew from the get go that in my part of the world it is next to impossible to get genuine Formlabs resin without major import hassles, or 2x the price as in the US.
Yes MSLA resins for chinese machines are over the counter available hereā¦ yet totally useless and print at best lumps of plastic that vaguely resemble the intended shape of the printed object.
I tried every profile combination, clear and black MSLA resin, nothing works.
Maybe a window tinting film between laser window and vat might bring some results.
Hi,
Thought I would add in here. The users above are correct, you donāt have software control over the laser power on the form 2. I have got anycubic grey resin working on my form 2 through a hardware modification though. Since lasers are constant current devices and their power supplies are constant current, the way to lower the power of the laser is to split the current into portions. I accomplished this by putting a resistor in parallel to the laser diode in one of my form 2 machines. By doing this I have been able to successfully print anycubic grey resin with the formlabs grey v4 parameters. The resistor value I found end up working for me was right around 81.7 ohms.
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