you don’t need casting resin, if you are not planing on investing and casting the prints in metal- even then, you should look into the burnout schedule required for casting resin- it takes a pretty controlled kiln and a very specific temperature ramping period.
you can print in grey resin, or in clear- to get the best detail… and then take a simple dixie cup mold on each different model you print to enable you to cast more figures with equal detail in, say, white odorless urethane resin, which is almost as durable as injection molded resins, but can be cast in your garage at room temperature.
for those who don’t know- a dixie cup mold is the most accurate way to cast small parts without visible flashing lines.
You mount the figure to the board and stick a PAPER dixie cup taller than the model , Upside down, over the model… seal the rim to the board with plastilene, and cut a hole in the bottom of the cup- now on top.
pour silicone rubber that has been vacuum degassed ( or pour in a pencil lead thin stream if you don’t have a vacuum ) making sure to stop the pour just a 1/4" shy of the bottom of the cup that is now on top.
once cured- tear off the paper cup and use an xacto blade to slice the mold into however may parts are needed to get the master figure out.
reassemble the mold parts and drop them into Another paper cup of the same size. The same size cup acts as the mold casing to hold the rubber parts in perfect alignment… more importantly- paper cups have a constant straight walled draft. this means that the silicone… which has shrunk just a tiny bit, can SLIDE further down into the cup, until the silicone pieces are pressed firmly together… resulting in No visible casting flashing in the resin parts you cast in this kind of mold.
they are quick and easy to make… and do a fantastic job for anything that will fit inside a paper cup.