Standard Grey vs Dental Model for 28mm scale miniatures

I pre-ordered a Form 3 for hobby uses, I plan on printing miniatures for tabletop roleplaying games. The miniatures I plan to print are 28mm scale which is fairly standard.

I was planning on using Standard Grey resin, but when I spoke with the rep while ordering my Form 3 she mentioned Dental Model resin which I hadn’t even considered. She mentioned how it had the best detail and would paint up very well (I would be using standard acrylic paints with primer).

Does anyone have any experience with the two materials for small detailed models? Any preferences, or even other materials I should consider?

I switched to the Dental Resin About a year and 1/2 ago… the only way to go… Amazing detail and very little banding compared to the Grey. This was for a client around 1/9 scale bust.

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I use white grey and rigid for 1/48 scale train(Lionel) models such as small buildings, microwave antenna towers, propane tanks,highway structures, train signals for LEDs,wood connections that form larger trusses,crossing gate electrical cabinets, scaffolds, windows,round occulets with slanted gratings, stairs, hand-railings, steeple cabs, street lights, hydrants,
For larger flat trusses I use a Glowforge

CONTINUED catenary supports, highway large tube sign with lights, ladders, castellated truss bridges, brick coins for corners of brick buildings, small detailed light fixtures with wire conduits, several kinds of elevated track side railing supports, auto carrier internal end ramps( connects auto carrier cars together at ramp levels); Auto carrier unloader that raises and lowers to the auto carriers cars ramp levels, column base supports round and rectangular. Most of these are printing groups of 20 or more depending on the size limitations.

And I just printed a Planetary Union Orville.

@billiejean have you noticed anything about strength compared to the grey resin? I’m just going to be using them for tabletop gaming miniatures, but if I can avoid it being too brittle that would always be the best.

Curing rigid requires 80°F for 30min under 405mn.
You need the FormCure to do that.

Once fully cured I would have to say it is a little more brittle then the grey on small details. But I only print for Master Patterns then pour RTV Molds and cast in polyurethane Resin. This is the stuff I make