What do you do about smell of Formlabs 2?


#21

I just printed my first parts with flexible resin and indeed it’s not tolerable in an office environment. I think that FL should highlight this a bit more even if it’s spelled out in the Flexible SDS document. Grey resin is perfectly fine however.

It appears that like everyone else I’ll have to find a solution for air extraction or moving the printer somewhere else. It would be good for FL to also consider offering a fume extraction port on the printer so that one can use standard extractors such as the ones used for soldering (I have a Weller TL ZeroSmog for that purpose) to neutralize the odor or at the very least expel the contaminated air outside.

As this topic is quite old I was wondering if anybody found a different solution in the meantime…


#22

I use the enclosure when I am running a part during the day. It has worked very well to contain the smell.

I modified the design a bit and have an air inlet hole near the bottom of the acrylic. On the top I have an outlet hole. I mounted an air purifier over the outlet. I run the air purifier while the print is going on. No smell.


#23

I solved flex printing smell issue by building enclosure from Ikea’s kitchen cabinet and air extractor (normally used over stove). I installed active carbon filter to the extractor. I still keep the room quite well ventilated, but smells are no longer an issue. I use this kind of filter: http://www.rhinofilter.com/pro.html


#24

Hey areffelt, would you happen to have the specs for that acrylic box handy, along with what those clamps and other parts are that you used, and if so could you please send them to me? I’d love to build this for myself, the fumes are insane in the space I’m working in. Thanks!


#25

Sure! We had someone fabricate the box for us, but here are the specs if you want.
The box dimensions are: 15” wide, 24” deep and 36” tall, the door is 3/8" and the walls are 1/4" thick. You might be able to save 4-6 inches on the height with the printer lid open.
You can use either small screws or epoxy to attach the walls to each other.
We put some right-angle brackets (like shelving brackets) in the corners to make the whole box more rigid.
The door locks are similar to these: https://www.mcmaster.com/#1406a42/=1anyhkn
I used a hole saw at the top to cut out the hole for our fume extractor tube.
It might be good to seal all edges except at the bottom where the front door touches the box to allow a crossflow through the printer.