Tuning for Quality in OpenFL Material Configuration Files

Having just begin using OpenFL I’m achieving some success creating a custom material configuration file. From a starting point of printing only the base and tiny nubs for supports, I’m now printing base, supports and the full model.
The model I’ve chosen to do this work is the ring-test.stl. This model prints quickly (a little more than an hour), and has the right amount of detail to support the tuning process.
I currently have 3 Issues to deal with:
1) Holes in the top of the ring getting filled with cured resin
2) Gaps between supports and the model
3) Resin not completely curing…it’s sticky, even after exposure to UV lamp

The question is which of these issues to resolve first. Number 2 can wait, since it doesn’t prevent printing the entire model (if the supports were completely missing, the model wouldn’t print, however, this is not the case).
Number 1 would be nice to resolve, however, I think number 3 is more important. I need to have completely cured models first before addressing other issues.
So, with this in mind, how do I get the resin to cure better?
This ultimately comes down to exposure. To increase curing, I need to increase exposure. There are 2 ways to increase curing; increase laser power or expose the resin for a longer period of time, which breaks down to slowing down the laser speed (in other words the galvos).
Since my current configuration sets the laser power to 62 mW, which is the max recommended for the Form1+, I need to focus on laser speed. To get a greater cure, I need to slow down the laser.
Focusing on the model (as opposed to the base or supports):
My previous print had [fill] modelxyfeedrate = 1450 and [perimeter] modelxyfeedrate = 700.
To increase cure on my next print I’ll set [fill] modelxyfeedrate = 1215 and [perimeter] modelxyfeedrate = 700, which is a 10% reduction, in both cases.

If someone has another opinion on how to do this, please let me know.
John

Ok so you managed to get something printed just needs better quality thats good news.,

I think you are using waxcast right? and that is a darker resin? I recently created a new ini for makerjuice dark green, Seeing as how it is a dark color then the yellow ini I created it has a longer exposure time ( 62mw & a 1000 laser speed is able to create a model this higher exposure ini is below; Regardless it seems your ini is not far off, just make adjustments by about minus 50- 100 on laser speed another thing you can try is adding additional layer passes to the otherlayerpasses setting. I have good results with 3 passes.

You can try leaving all your laser settings the same and try just adding 1 layer pass …test… add 1 more. and see if the model prints more securly it may just need 1 or 2 more to stay together. Laser speed & strength are the main things to tune in, then it maybe just slowing the laser speed a a few hundred or adding an extra layer pass.

If your ini can print a base to than you don’t need to adjust [perimeter] or basexyfeedrate and baselaserpowermw under the [fill] section those create your base. once those are tuned just adjust the the other fill tweaks, and tweak laser passes by 1. is usually what I do.

1 - a picture would help alot
in your openFL ini under the print settings change slice height from 0.1 to .09 this will focus the laser a little more. See if that produces a more desirable outcome , also may be a slight overcuring problem try one than the other. Also if the ring has holes that seem be getting cured, try orienting your model so those holes drain , basically orient the holes so they face the plate in preform then add supports…

2 - Gaps between supports and models is either an undercuring issue or a point size issue or possibly a combo of both. Try one adjustment than the other. Increase your point size and or density when you create a base. I have prints rip apart when they are under supported when I try to get by with as little supports as possible

3 - Are you washing your resin after you print. You need to soak / wash the print in 99% ISP (rubbing alcohol) for about ten minutes or so then wash that off in water & then cure it. Stickyness can also change depending on the resin used. I have noticed some resins cure more sticky than other. A longer soak after printing may be needed if the prints are to sticky

If you are using waxcast the resin is probably not formualted to be handled so chances are it may just be designed with that part left out of the resin formula, if the user is going to cast it , if it cures sticky it shouldnt matter.

Here is a higher exposure OpenFL maybe see if this one can get you somewhere;
—This is my ini * on my inis the tilt motor is disabled so you’ll need to copy & that paste that into it if you want to try this ini… like we talked about before.

;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;; FORMLABS MATERIAL CONFIGURATION ;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;
;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;
;;;;;;; WARNING: Modifying these settings can lead to damage ;;;;;;
;;;;;;;;;; to your Form 1+ and void its warranty.;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;
;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;SK;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;
;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;

;If you are going to edit material files you should download and install a text editor that is made to work with files of this type and use it for editing the material files:
;notepad++ for windows https://notepad-plus-plus.org/download or a mac equivalent like Atom https://atom.io/

;This material file is for use with Preform OpenPF:
;The original material file (Formlabs Clear V2) can be found here: https://github.com/Formlabs/OpenFL/blob/master/Form_1%2B_FLGPCL02_100.ini 
;The OpenPF version of Preform can be downloaded from the following links (links are from from the OpenPf Github page):
;Windows: https://s3.amazonaws.com/FormlabsReleases/Release/2.3.3/PreForm_setup_2.3.3_release_OpenFL_build_2.exe
;Mac: https://s3.amazonaws.com/FormlabsReleases/Release/2.3.3/PreForm_2.3.3_release_OpenFL_build_2.dmg
;Note: You can have Preform and Preform OpenPF on the same PC, after installing Preform OpenPF rename the OpenPF shortcut (icon) so that you can tell the difference between the Preform and Preform OpenPF programs. I suspect the same can be done on Macs.
;If you are going to work with this type of file you will want to download the notepadd++ text editor: https://notepad-plus-plus.org/ because programs like notepad do not handle this type of file well.


;*****************************************************************************************************************************************************
;******  FAST START  *********************************************************************************************************************************
;*****************************************************************************************************************************************************
;
;******  use the settings in this file as the starting point for your exposure testing.  *************************************************************
;
;  WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW TO START:
;
;  in the [Overview] section the MaterialName is what appears as the material being used in OpenPF, the filename should probably match this description. When you make changes to this file save it under a new name (File > Save As)
;
;  in the [perimeter] section you can change the exposure used for drawing the perimeter (aka outline, shell) of the object being printed by changing "modelxyfeedrate" (the speed which the laser beam moves) or "modellaserpowermw"
;  (the intensity of the laser beam - this should never be set higher than 62). Initially only use modellaserpowermw to change the exposure until you have gained some experience creating material files. Increasing modellaserpowermw
;  increases exposure (thicker, harder resin cure), decreasing modellaserpowermw decreases exposure (thinner, softer cure), Note: LOWERING modelxyfeedrate will INCREASE the exposure, INCREASING modelxyfeedrate will LOWER the exposure.
;
;  in the [fill] section you can change the exposure used for drawing the fill (aka infill, note: the fill is always solid) of the object being printed by changing "modelxyfeedrate" (the speed which the laser beam moves) or "modellaserpowermw"
;  (the intensity of the laser beam - this should never be set higher than 62). Initially only use modellaserpowermw to change the exposure until you have gained some experience creating material files. Increasing modellaserpowermw
;  increases exposure (thicker, harder resin cure), decreasing modellaserpowermw decreases exposure (thinner, softer cure), Note: LOWERING modelxyfeedrate will INCREASE the exposure, INCREASING modelxyfeedrate will LOWER the exposure.
;
;  Note: I have found that the ratio between [perimeter] laserpowermw and [fill] modellaserpowermw is between 1:1.3 and 1:1.5 (I use 1:1.3) *****IF YOU ARE USING [PERIMETER] modelxyfeedrate = 800 AND [fill] modelxyfeedrate = 1550 *****
;  for example, if fill modellaserpowermw is 35 perimeter modellaserpowermw will be 45.5) (I round to 1 decimal place). If you see a difference between the perimeter outlines and fill you may want to change the ratio between perimeter and fill exposures.
;
;  In the [PrintSettings] section use SliceHeight to control the layer thickness, for example 0.1 = 100 microns, 0.05 = 50 microns, 0.025 = 25 microns
;
;  In the [laserRoutine] section firstlayerpasses is the number of laser passes for the build plate attachment layer, 10 to 20 passes should be more than enough, if the item you are printing does not stick to the build plate
;  the build plate is not correctly adjusted.
;
;  there are a lot of comments next to the settings below that explain what the settings do but the settings above are the basics.
;
;********************************************************************************************************************************************


;********************************************************************************************************************************************
;IMPORTANT NOTE: any setting that has the word "laserpowermw" in it should never be set higher than 62 
;********************************************************************************************************************************************

;Note:  all notes must start with a semicolon (;), notes can be anywhere in the text but cannot be between a setting and its perameter.


[Overview]
;this is the material name that appears as the description of this custom material in OpenPF. I usually also use this as the file name for the material.
; description example: MaterialName = MJSFYELLOW , filename example: MJSFYELLOW.ini
MaterialName = MakerJuice SF (ForestGreen)

[perimeter]
;These are the perimeter ("shell") settings: in photography terms *feedrate is equivalent to shutter speed (the higher the number the LOWER the exposure), *laserpowermw is equivalent to apeture (the higher the number the HIGHER the exposure).
;Note: I have found that the ratio between [perimeter] laserpowermw and [fill] modellaserpowermw is between 1:1.29 and 1:1.49
;for example, if fill modellaserpowermw is 35 perimeter modellaserpowermw will be 45), I round to whole numbers.
modelxyfeedrate = 700  ; Laser speed in mm/s for the perimeter of the model. (Faster than 800 mm/s may noticably reduce surface quality.)
modellaserpowermw = 62  ; Laser power in mW for the perimeter of the model (max: 62 mW)
supportxyfeedrate = 700  ; Laser speed in mm/s for the perimeter of the supports. (Faster than 800 mm/s may noticably reduce surface quality.)
supportlaserpowermw = 62  ; Laser power in mW for the perimeter of thesupports. (max: 62 mW)
basexyfeedrate = 700  ; Laser speed in mm/s for the perimeter of the base (aka raft). (Faster than 800 mm/s may noticably reduce surface quality.)
baselaserpowermw = 62
+  ; Laser power in mW used for the perimeter of the base (aka raft). (max: 62 mW)


[fill]
;these are the fill ("infill") settings, think of prints as having solid infill: in photography terms *feedrate is equivalent to shutter speed (the higher the number the LOWER the exposure), *laserpowermw is equivalent to apeture  (the higher the number the HIGHER the exposure).
;Note: On average models should be hollow ("shelled"), printing models solid both wastes resin and will cause all kinds of shrinkage and printing problems. Meshmixer is a good program to use for hollowing models: http://www.meshmixer.com/ . 1mm to 4mm walls work well depending on the model, include a drain hole in the model.
;Note: I have found that the ratio between [perimeter] laserpowermw and [fill] modellaserpowermw is between 1:1.29 and 1:1.49, for example, if fill modellaserpowermw is 35 perimeter modellaserpowermw will be 45), I round to whole numbers.
modelxyfeedrate = 1000  ; Laser speed in mm/s used for filling the model. (Faster than about 1600 mm/s may produce noticable artifacts.)
modellaserpowermw = 62  ; Laser power in mW for the model. (max: 62 mW)
supportxyfeedrate = 1000 ; Laser speed in mm/s used for filling supports. (Faster than about 1600 mm/s may produce noticable artifacts.)
supportlaserpowermw = 62  ; Laser power in mW for filling supports. (max: 62 mW)
basexyfeedrate = 610  ; Laser speed in mm/s used for filling the base (aka raft). (Faster than about 1600 mm/s may produce noticable artifacts.)
baselaserpowermw = 55  ; Laser power in mW used for filling the base (aka raft). (max: 62 mW)


[PrintSettings]
;layer thickness, number of offsets (shells) , laser beam overlap and model size adjustments
SliceHeight = 0.1 ; The layer thickness in mm. For example 0.1 is 100 microns (0.1 mm). Be aware that values not corresponding to whole z-motor microsteps (0.0025 mm) will be rounded.
ScanlineSpacing = 0.1  ; Spacing of fill lines in mm.
InnerBoundaryOffset = 0.12
OuterBoundaryOffset = 0.03  ; Offset from model perimeter to outermost outline in mm. Conceptually this is the curing radius of the outermost outline.
Xcorrectionfactor = 1.008  ; Scale factor for the x axis to account for shrinkage.
Ycorrectionfactor = 1.008  ; Scale factor for the y axis to account for shrinkage.
ScanlineBoundaryOffset = 0.03  ; Offset in mm from the innermost outline to the boundary of the fill. If this is zero, the fill touches the innermost outline; if this is positive it does not; if this is negative, the fill overlaps at least the inner outline.
OffsetsNum = 3  ; Number of outlines to draw. min: 0; max: unlimited


[laserRoutine]
;Laser passes over model during layer exposure, can be different for different types of layers. 
;build plate attachment layer exposure
firstlayerpasses = 10  ; The number of laser passes to do for layer 0 to attach to the build platform.
;normal layer exposure
otherlayerpasses = 3  ; The number of laser passes to do for most layers (typically 1).
;usually used for support layers, not needed for "standard" i.e non form1 specific resins. I use this as a second build plate attachment layer.
earlylayerpasses = 3  ; The number of laser passes to do for early layers as defined by earlytimesexpose. ***** NOTE: used as second attachment layer *****


[btwnLayerRoutine]
;Vat and build plate movement, speeds and timings between layer exposures
;Note: some layer and build plate attachment problems can be helped by lowering p1downvel and or p2downvel settings (slows the tilt)
earlytimesexpose = 2  ; The number of layers that will be exposed earlylayerpasses times (excluding layer 0). That is, if earlytimesexpose is 3 and earlylayerpasses is 2, layer 0 will get firstlayerpasses passes, layer 1 and 2 will get 2 passes, and subsequent layers will get otherlayerpasses passes.
postlasercurewait = 4  ; Duration in seconds to wait from when the laser turns off until the motors start to move.
earlytimespeel = 0  ; The number of layers for which the p1 moves will be done. These are typically slower moves.
p1downvel = 0  ; Initial tilt speed in mm/s (at the tilt motor).
p1downmove = 0  ; Initial tilt distance in mm.
p1upvel = 0  ; Velocity of p1upmove in mm/s.
p1upmove = 0  ; Tilt up-move displacement in mm (should be negative).
p1upslowvel = 0  ; Velocity for p1upslowmove in mm/s.
p1upslowmove = 0  ; Additional up move in mm to overdrive into the hard stop. (Should be negative or zero.)
p2downvel = 0  ; Velocity of p2downmove in mm/s.
p2downmove = 0  ; After earlytimespeel, tilt distance in mm.
p2upvel = 0  ; Speed of p2upmove in mm/s.
p2upmove = 0  ; After earlytimespeel, un-tilt distance in mm. (should be negative.)
p2upslowvel = 0  ; Speed of p2upslowmove in mm/s.
p2upslowmove = 0  ; After earlytimespeel, overdrive distance into hard stop in mm. (Should be negative or zero.)
squishwaitmin_s = 0  ; Low end of the time in seconds we wait between finishing squishing and turning on the laser.
squishwaitmax_s = 0  ; High end of the time in seconds we wait between finishing squishing and turning on the laser.

Sorry, I should have told you I’m using Formlabs Black V4.
(ApplyLabWork Black and Beige arrived; I’ll use this soon, but, FL resin is suiting my current purpose nicely)
I was using Fun2Do F1+ when this whole print failure saga started. And, in the end, root cause will surface it’s ugly head, but for now I’m making good headway with OpenFL.

Did I say thanks for helping me come up to speed sharpknlfe?

OK, back to the fun stuff.
My print failed last night. It looks like I need to back up to the previous .ini file.
The changes I made were decreasing feed rate by 10% on both [Fill] and [perimeter].
Evidently this was way overkill, because all I got was a lump of coal in the bottom of the tank. Nothing stuck to the platform.
So, I reverted the previous changes and re-printed, and it failed again (another lump for the kids stockings next year).

At this point I need to solve the no-stick-to-build-plate issue.
For the next print I:

  • sanded build-plate with 600 grit (this shouldn’t be necessary, but it’s hard to debug anything until you get something, if you know what I mean).
  • Cleaned all the optics. I must have cleaned the galvos and the small mirror 4 times, always seeing a light haze. I tried the slow wipe technique, which definitely helped, but didn’t get rid of it entirely. Question was where was the residue coming from (after cleaning and cleaning the haze would diminish but then it would come back in full force)? I think it was the white grease that FL used on the block mounting pins; So, I cleaned the entire galvo/laser block. I read (you guessed it) on the internet, that a solution of 60% acetone, 40% Methanol was a very good cleaning agent for optics, so I tried it. It definitely helped. I got both the galvo mirrors and the small mirror cleaner than ever. I also used it on the main mirror and it helped there too. I know this to be a self-defeating process…eventually I’ll rub all the silver off the top-coated mirrors and they’ll turn into windows.
  • Lowered the build plate from 0.10 mm to 0.30 mm.

This all worked, at least partially. I got the print shown in the pics.


The side that printed is firmly stuck to the build plate, the part that didn’t print is flopping in the breeze, so to speak ( not attached to build plate). Not sure whether sanding with 600 grit helped or hurt me…maybe I need coarser grit.
Well. at least I’m moving forward.
I’ll re-sand the build plate, where it lifted, then print the 5 butterfly test print using Preform 2.15. I have known results, even if they aren’t perfect.

John

OK so its its basically a black resin, I never used fun to do but it shouldn’t be hard to get that to stick, I’m assuming that is supposed to be a ring, and its failing like that thru the print. It looks like your build plate and optics are fine, this is just a matter of creating a working ini. And you got a lot closer than I did after only a few days. It took me 3 weeks to a month to be able to understand this. You aren’t far off here.

Ok so its a black resin, this tells us its going to need a higher exposure than say a beige or a white most likely. But there is a thing as over curing. i think thats happening here.

Also, is that being printed with preform generated supports or right on the plate or did you download it and just to print it the way the file was?. That print looks like there no supports and its being printed right on the base?

A few things I learned yesterday doing tests ;
The first part [perimeter] is about the outside quality of the print. A slower speed here will deliver more detail
too fast on the model shell part and you will lose detail and get unwanted resin artifacts (like leftovers that accidently got cured) But to slow and overcuring occurs.

Here is a recent forest green I did w/ everything adjusted for nearly perfect detail. It is a very dark green color from makerjuice and it shouldnt need much of a tweek to get it to work for that black (assuming it doesnot work)

If the resin is too tough to the touch then it is over curing, It looks like its over curing since the modelfeedrate is so slow and your laser is probably at 62 & the resin probably isnt as thick as FL resin. So you can leave the power at 62 and increase the laser speed here. if you want to try to adjust your ini,

I saw what you wrote above with a laser modelfeedrate of 700, I think that is your problem, 700 is to slow causing over curing. Try raising just that

Try raising that to about 1000 and see the results. There is a thing as too slow. and this may be it. If it is a thinner resin it doesnt need a really slow speed. Overcuring causes extremely tough parts, sort of what you are looking at. It will print deformed and tough to the touch…and tends to rip apart.

raise modelxyfeedrate I am using 950 here. anything lower then say 800 on the modelfill causes overcuring and failed prints… You can use a slower speed on the perimiter to dial in your outside qualites once you get the model built itself. This part is easy.

Below is my dark green ini, if the resin is thin like makerjuice this shouldnt be too far off.
Note this ini had 3 layer passes for all layers. I am not sure if you tried adjusting this also. I got to 3 by being able to print a model but it cured like jello, raised this, cured slightly tougher, one more was perfect. when making an ini its important to just relax, I did the same thing you did, took my form apart like 4 times, cleaned it, until realizing the machine was fine , just needed to create an ini. And just remember your changes and don’t jump to far on each change in either direction. sometimes the answer is in between and it leads to frustration and doing things like taking apart the form or cleaning it… You got something printing and sticking its almost there dont take it apart or clean it anymore its not needed focus that time and energy on getting the resin correct.

Time consuming yes, but it feels good when you get that good print its all worth it. And it becomes easier to do another resin, and on top of that this is almost the same thing as programming a laser engraver. So everything learned here can apply to a home laser engraver which I was looking at the other day and thinking, that’s the same thing openfl…

;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;; FORMLABS MATERIAL CONFIGURATION ;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;
;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;
;;;;;;; WARNING: Modifying these settings can lead to damage ;;;;;;
;;;;;;;;;; to your Form 1+ and void its warranty.;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;
;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;SK;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;
;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;

;If you are going to edit material files you should download and install a text editor that is made to work with files of this type and use it for editing the material files:
;notepad++ for windows https://notepad-plus-plus.org/download or a mac equivalent like Atom https://atom.io/

;This material file is for use with Preform OpenPF:
;The original material file (Formlabs Clear V2) can be found here: https://github.com/Formlabs/OpenFL/blob/master/Form_1%2B_FLGPCL02_100.ini 
;The OpenPF version of Preform can be downloaded from the following links (links are from from the OpenPf Github page):
;Windows: https://s3.amazonaws.com/FormlabsReleases/Release/2.3.3/PreForm_setup_2.3.3_release_OpenFL_build_2.exe
;Mac: https://s3.amazonaws.com/FormlabsReleases/Release/2.3.3/PreForm_2.3.3_release_OpenFL_build_2.dmg
;Note: You can have Preform and Preform OpenPF on the same PC, after installing Preform OpenPF rename the OpenPF shortcut (icon) so that you can tell the difference between the Preform and Preform OpenPF programs. I suspect the same can be done on Macs.
;If you are going to work with this type of file you will want to download the notepadd++ text editor: https://notepad-plus-plus.org/ because programs like notepad do not handle this type of file well.


;*****************************************************************************************************************************************************
;******  FAST START  *********************************************************************************************************************************
;*****************************************************************************************************************************************************
;
;******  use the settings in this file as the starting point for your exposure testing.  *************************************************************
;
;  WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW TO START:
;
;  in the [Overview] section the MaterialName is what appears as the material being used in OpenPF, the filename should probably match this description. When you make changes to this file save it under a new name (File > Save As)
;
;  in the [perimeter] section you can change the exposure used for drawing the perimeter (aka outline, shell) of the object being printed by changing "modelxyfeedrate" (the speed which the laser beam moves) or "modellaserpowermw"
;  (the intensity of the laser beam - this should never be set higher than 62). Initially only use modellaserpowermw to change the exposure until you have gained some experience creating material files. Increasing modellaserpowermw
;  increases exposure (thicker, harder resin cure), decreasing modellaserpowermw decreases exposure (thinner, softer cure), Note: LOWERING modelxyfeedrate will INCREASE the exposure, INCREASING modelxyfeedrate will LOWER the exposure.
;
;  in the [fill] section you can change the exposure used for drawing the fill (aka infill, note: the fill is always solid) of the object being printed by changing "modelxyfeedrate" (the speed which the laser beam moves) or "modellaserpowermw"
;  (the intensity of the laser beam - this should never be set higher than 62). Initially only use modellaserpowermw to change the exposure until you have gained some experience creating material files. Increasing modellaserpowermw
;  increases exposure (thicker, harder resin cure), decreasing modellaserpowermw decreases exposure (thinner, softer cure), Note: LOWERING modelxyfeedrate will INCREASE the exposure, INCREASING modelxyfeedrate will LOWER the exposure.
;
;  Note: I have found that the ratio between [perimeter] laserpowermw and [fill] modellaserpowermw is between 1:1.3 and 1:1.5 (I use 1:1.3) *****IF YOU ARE USING [PERIMETER] modelxyfeedrate = 800 AND [fill] modelxyfeedrate = 1550 *****
;  for example, if fill modellaserpowermw is 35 perimeter modellaserpowermw will be 45.5) (I round to 1 decimal place). If you see a difference between the perimeter outlines and fill you may want to change the ratio between perimeter and fill exposures.
;
;  In the [PrintSettings] section use SliceHeight to control the layer thickness, for example 0.1 = 100 microns, 0.05 = 50 microns, 0.025 = 25 microns
;
;  In the [laserRoutine] section firstlayerpasses is the number of laser passes for the build plate attachment layer, 10 to 20 passes should be more than enough, if the item you are printing does not stick to the build plate
;  the build plate is not correctly adjusted.
;
;  there are a lot of comments next to the settings below that explain what the settings do but the settings above are the basics.
;
;********************************************************************************************************************************************


;********************************************************************************************************************************************
;IMPORTANT NOTE: any setting that has the word "laserpowermw" in it should never be set higher than 62 
;********************************************************************************************************************************************

;Note:  all notes must start with a semicolon (;), notes can be anywhere in the text but cannot be between a setting and its perameter.


[Overview]
;this is the material name that appears as the description of this custom material in OpenPF. I usually also use this as the file name for the material.
; description example: MaterialName = MJSFYELLOW , filename example: MJSFYELLOW.ini
MaterialName = MakerJuice SF (ForestGreen)

[perimeter]
;These are the perimeter ("shell") settings: in photography terms *feedrate is equivalent to shutter speed (the higher the number the LOWER the exposure), *laserpowermw is equivalent to apeture (the higher the number the HIGHER the exposure).
;Note: I have found that the ratio between [perimeter] laserpowermw and [fill] modellaserpowermw is between 1:1.29 and 1:1.49
;for example, if fill modellaserpowermw is 35 perimeter modellaserpowermw will be 45), I round to whole numbers.
modelxyfeedrate = 465  ; Laser speed in mm/s for the perimeter of the model. (Faster than 800 mm/s may noticably reduce surface quality.)
modellaserpowermw = 62  ; Laser power in mW for the perimeter of the model (max: 62 mW)
supportxyfeedrate = 700  ; Laser speed in mm/s for the perimeter of the supports. (Faster than 800 mm/s may noticably reduce surface quality.)
supportlaserpowermw = 62  ; Laser power in mW for the perimeter of thesupports. (max: 62 mW)
basexyfeedrate = 700  ; Laser speed in mm/s for the perimeter of the base (aka raft). (Faster than 800 mm/s may noticably reduce surface quality.)
baselaserpowermw = 62
+  ; Laser power in mW used for the perimeter of the base (aka raft). (max: 62 mW)


[fill]
;these are the fill ("infill") settings, think of prints as having solid infill: in photography terms *feedrate is equivalent to shutter speed (the higher the number the LOWER the exposure), *laserpowermw is equivalent to apeture  (the higher the number the HIGHER the exposure).
;Note: On average models should be hollow ("shelled"), printing models solid both wastes resin and will cause all kinds of shrinkage and printing problems. Meshmixer is a good program to use for hollowing models: http://www.meshmixer.com/ . 1mm to 4mm walls work well depending on the model, include a drain hole in the model.
;Note: I have found that the ratio between [perimeter] laserpowermw and [fill] modellaserpowermw is between 1:1.29 and 1:1.49, for example, if fill modellaserpowermw is 35 perimeter modellaserpowermw will be 45), I round to whole numbers.
modelxyfeedrate = 950  ; Laser speed in mm/s used for filling the model. (Faster than about 1600 mm/s may produce noticable artifacts.)
modellaserpowermw = 62  ; Laser power in mW for the model. (max: 62 mW)
supportxyfeedrate = 950 ; Laser speed in mm/s used for filling supports. (Faster than about 1600 mm/s may produce noticable artifacts.)
supportlaserpowermw = 62  ; Laser power in mW for filling supports. (max: 62 mW)
basexyfeedrate = 700  ; Laser speed in mm/s used for filling the base (aka raft). (Faster than about 1600 mm/s may produce noticable artifacts.)
baselaserpowermw = 62  ; Laser power in mW used for filling the base (aka raft). (max: 62 mW)


[PrintSettings]
;layer thickness, number of offsets (shells) , laser beam overlap and model size adjustments
SliceHeight = 0.1 ; The layer thickness in mm. For example 0.1 is 100 microns (0.1 mm). Be aware that values not corresponding to whole z-motor microsteps (0.0025 mm) will be rounded.
ScanlineSpacing = 0.1  ; Spacing of fill lines in mm.
InnerBoundaryOffset = 0.12
OuterBoundaryOffset = 0.03  ; Offset from model perimeter to outermost outline in mm. Conceptually this is the curing radius of the outermost outline.
Xcorrectionfactor = 1.008  ; Scale factor for the x axis to account for shrinkage.
Ycorrectionfactor = 1.008  ; Scale factor for the y axis to account for shrinkage.
ScanlineBoundaryOffset = 0.03  ; Offset in mm from the innermost outline to the boundary of the fill. If this is zero, the fill touches the innermost outline; if this is positive it does not; if this is negative, the fill overlaps at least the inner outline.
OffsetsNum = 3  ; Number of outlines to draw. min: 0; max: unlimited


[laserRoutine]
;Laser passes over model during layer exposure, can be different for different types of layers. 
;build plate attachment layer exposure
firstlayerpasses = 10  ; The number of laser passes to do for layer 0 to attach to the build platform.
;normal layer exposure
otherlayerpasses = 3  ; The number of laser passes to do for most layers (typically 1).
;usually used for support layers, not needed for "standard" i.e non form1 specific resins. I use this as a second build plate attachment layer.
earlylayerpasses = 3  ; The number of laser passes to do for early layers as defined by earlytimesexpose. ***** NOTE: used as second attachment layer *****


[btwnLayerRoutine]
;Vat and build plate movement, speeds and timings between layer exposures
;Note: some layer and build plate attachment problems can be helped by lowering p1downvel and or p2downvel settings (slows the tilt)
earlytimesexpose = 2  ; The number of layers that will be exposed earlylayerpasses times (excluding layer 0). That is, if earlytimesexpose is 3 and earlylayerpasses is 2, layer 0 will get firstlayerpasses passes, layer 1 and 2 will get 2 passes, and subsequent layers will get otherlayerpasses passes.
postlasercurewait = 4  ; Duration in seconds to wait from when the laser turns off until the motors start to move.
earlytimespeel = 0  ; The number of layers for which the p1 moves will be done. These are typically slower moves.
p1downvel = 0  ; Initial tilt speed in mm/s (at the tilt motor).
p1downmove = 0  ; Initial tilt distance in mm.
p1upvel = 0  ; Velocity of p1upmove in mm/s.
p1upmove = 0  ; Tilt up-move displacement in mm (should be negative).
p1upslowvel = 0  ; Velocity for p1upslowmove in mm/s.
p1upslowmove = 0  ; Additional up move in mm to overdrive into the hard stop. (Should be negative or zero.)
p2downvel = 0  ; Velocity of p2downmove in mm/s.
p2downmove = 0  ; After earlytimespeel, tilt distance in mm.
p2upvel = 0  ; Speed of p2upmove in mm/s.
p2upmove = 0  ; After earlytimespeel, un-tilt distance in mm. (should be negative.)
p2upslowvel = 0  ; Speed of p2upslowmove in mm/s.
p2upslowmove = 0  ; After earlytimespeel, overdrive distance into hard stop in mm. (Should be negative or zero.)
squishwaitmin_s = 0  ; Low end of the time in seconds we wait between finishing squishing and turning on the laser.
squishwaitmax_s = 0  ; High end of the time in seconds we wait between finishing squishing and turning on the laser.

I see you added the peel back in…are you using this or was this for my benefit?

I see that I had too much detail in my previous post…I misled you into believing I was now using Fun2Do F1+.
I am not. I’m using FL Black V4.

Also, I think I may have located another one of my blunders. I had SlicelineSpacing set to 0.09.
I don’t think this is compatible with the SliceHeight I’m using, which is 0.05.
I recall you suggesting I move from SlicelineSpacing = 0.10 to 0.09…and this would be a good suggestion if my slice height were 0.10 (however it is not; it’s 0.05).
(I think I’m learning…but every change is fraught with risk; I’m an electronics engineer at heart, so making changes to code is just too easy…I violate the rule ‘1 change at a time’)

Well, I’m hoping the 5 Butterfly test print will be a repeat of prior results, which will give confidence again and I can continue tweaking my material config file once more. Every time I make a config change I feel like I’m stepping onto that bridge over that chasm in Raiders of the Lost Ark (ah, I date myself).

Would you mind posting a pic of that green print?

John

I do have some black v4, I know it didnt print with the v4 profile so I put it away. When I run out of this green, in the vat i can get it out and try it. I know its a thicker resin than what I have been working on, I think I have a half liter left. So thats up next.

Below is a failed benchy. Those are artifacts. I think this is a laserspeed to fast issue if i remember i sped the perimiter speed up last night trying to save time. This is what happens when you try to save time and jump to much in a direction…

I am able to print a simple object like a ring perfect, however moving up in size These are the artifacts I get, They are not even there on a smaller simple object. This I think is a perimeter issue because the model itself is good underneath. Once I get that that dialed in on larger objects id say this ini is finished.

and no the motor is still disabled on all my ini’s there is just a 4 second delay from layer to layer. at 2 seconds it wasn’t curing right. It cuts testing time alot, and if only printing a small ring it saves time, when you get an ini that cures to your standard you can just add in the motor. The ring printed on mine fine with no tilt. Can speed things up.

In preform openFL, the ini overides. you have to manually add in your layer height where that .9 was. So if you want it at .05 you have to change that to .05 if you sliced it there and thats the results your looking for otherwise it will always be .1
the slider bar adjustment does not work when you load an ini. It reads the ini and takes the layer height from it. regardless if you manually adjusted the bar then loaded the ini., I dont edit slicing heights much.

But you can change it. you can adjust and even go up and have a .2 layer height for even faster testing ( I read this from a formlabs blog) so that height can be adjusted everywhere in between.

OK, I have progress to report:
The 5 Butterfly Test print with Preform 2.15 succeeded…at least in the sense that the base plus nubby supports looks exactly the same as my previous print of it (I have another version of it having a 3 duplicate overlay, which not surprisingly is over-cured; no need to print that one again…pretty sure I’ll get the same results).


This means the condition of the printer, optics, etc. is the same as when I started developing material configuration files, other than a bit of dust collected on the optics. The cleaning should have helped out some, because there was lots of dust and a fair amount of haze on the galvo and small mirrors, which I cleaned up even better with a solution of 40% IPA, 60% Acetone.
I also printed the ring again with only 1 change to the ini. This was to fix the error in SlicelineSpacing (that is change from 0.09 to 0.05). (you mention setting the spacing to whatever you want, and I like that I can do this, but I think I’ll hold off until I can swim a little better)
Wow…it printed again, a little better this time. It’s still puffy on the outside and the holes in the top of the ring are still filled, but it proves the blunder with SlicelineSpacing = 0.09 took this print directly to failure without passing go and without collecting $200;–)

Don’t turn me in to the Feds, OK, it clearly says ‘Not Legal Tender’.

I can now move on to removing artifacts and getting better quality.
To do this I will slow down the model print speed…only this time I’ll do it just a little on each successive print.

Hey sharpknlfe,
Did you ever remedy your issue of a sliding tank?
I saw this issue; my prints would suddenly shift mid-print. This would sometimes happen from 1 layer to the next, or it might shift over multiple successive layers, or shift, then print a few layers, then shift again.

Love the Secretary of Treasury - John E. Cash!!!

Chris

Yeah,
Ever wonder what his song ‘Ring of Fire’ is about?
Every ate too many Jalapenos?

Talk about fire in the hole!!!

Chris

sliding tank was due to a weak tilt motor. So thats why I disabled it. I even replaced it, same issues.

Nice progress, id say leave the [fill] settings alone and it looks like just the [parameter] part needs a little tweaking, thats the part that controls the quality of the outside of the object. Looks like the support part is overcuring from the picture. Maybe try turning that laser power down a notch or two and see. I am working on this same issue but only on bigger objects but I am close, I just ran out of my green so on to black v4

I have about a half L left, so if you want to share your ini for black v4 and i can test it and see the results on my machine

sharpknlfe,

I don’t know about your weak tilt motor, but I have seen what FL refers to as a failed peel. The tank tries to go down, but fails to, because the print refuses to separate from either the tank or the platform (shows your print is strong anyway). The tank goes back up without the model peeling. This occurred over and over for about 5 layers before it finally peeled.
I don’t know the fix for this…perhaps just let it happen.
But I do have a solid fix for tank shift. Send me a message…

theres a rod in the tilt motor and an attachment on the tray where they connect, they would always come apart or the rod would break. I loctited, replaced it twice. So the peel would be weak because it wouldnt attrach right or if it did, it wouldnt last long. it’s a known defect on some form 1s.

And the few times I ran into that same problem it’s because I was overcuring the resin with a platform height that was too low.

Here’s my current ini for FL black V4 with 0.05 layer thickness…like the one you posted…in progress…

By the way, how did you post your ini file?

Here’s the contents…enter it into a text file in Notepad++ and save it, then rename it to ‘Form_1+_FLGBK01_050.ini’

;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;; FORMLABS MATERIAL CONFIGURATION ;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;
;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;
;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;
;;;;;;;;;;;; ,;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;: ;;;;;;;;;;;;
;;;;;;;;, : ;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;
;;;;;;; ;;;;;;;, ;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;; ;;;;;;;
;;;;;;; ;;;; ,;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;: ;;;;;;; ;;;;;;;;. ;;;; , ;;;;;;;;;;;;; ;;;;;;;; ;;;;;;;;;; ;;;;;;;;; ;;; :;;;;;;;;: :;;;;;;;;; ;;;;;;;;;;;; ;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;. ,;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;; ,;;;;;;;;;;; ;;;;;;;;;;;;; ;;;;;;;;;;;, , ,;;;;;;;;;;; ;;;;;;;;;;;;;
;;;;;;;;;;;;;;, :;;;;;;: ;,;;;;;;; ;;;;;;;;;;;;;; ;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;; ;;: ; ;;; :;;; .;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;
;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;; ;; ; :;;;; ;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;
;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;; :;; ; ;;;;;. :;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;
;;;;;;;;;;;;;; ;;; ;;: ;;;;;;; ;;;;;;;;;;;;;;
;;;;;;;;;;;;;;, ;;;: ,;;; :;;;;;;;; ;;;;;;;;;;;;;; ;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;; ;;;;;;;;;, ;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;
;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;` ;;, ;;;;;;;;;;; ;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;
;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;; ;;;;;;;;;;;;; ;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;
;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;
;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;
;;;;;;; WARNING: Modifying these settings can lead to damage ;;;;;;
;;;;;;;;;; to your Form 1+ and void its warranty. ;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;
;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;;
; Comments:
; 04122018:
; Attempting to solve fail-to-stick-build-platform issue
; Changed scanlinespacing from 0.09 to 0.05
; I think scan line spacing should be the same as slice height, if it’s not, then the XY marix is too sparse
; The layer thickness in the parent configuration file was 100 micron. I changed this to 50 micron, but I
; failed to update the xy spacing at the same time…This could be the entire reason for the print failure.

[perimeter]
modelxyfeedrate = 650 ; Laser speed in mm/s for the perimeter of the model. (Faster than 800 mm/s may noticably reduce surface quality.)
modellaserpowermw = 62 ; Laser power in mW for the perimeter of the model (max: 62 mW for Form 1+)
supportxyfeedrate = 700 ; Laser speed in mm/s for the perimeter of the supports. (Faster than 800 mm/s may noticably reduce surface quality.)
supportlaserpowermw = 62 ; Laser power in mW for the perimeter of the supports. (max: 62 mW for Form 1+)
basexyfeedrate = 700 ; Laser speed in mm/s for the perimeter of the base (aka raft). (Faster than 800 mm/s may noticably reduce surface quality.)
baselaserpowermw = 62 ; Laser power in mW used for the perimeter of the base (aka raft). (max: 62 mW for Form 1+)

[fill]
modelxyfeedrate = 1400 ; Laser speed in mm/s used for filling the model. (Faster than about 1600 mm/s may produce noticable artifacts.)
modellaserpowermw = 62 ; Laser power in mW for the model. (max: 62 mW for Form 1+)
supportxyfeedrate = 1350 ; Laser speed in mm/s used for filling supports. (Faster than about 1600 mm/s may produce noticable artifacts.)
supportlaserpowermw = 62 ; Laser power in mW for filling supports.
basexyfeedrate = 1350 ; Laser speed in mm/s used for filling the base (aka raft). (Faster than about 1600 mm/s may produce noticable artifacts.)
baselaserpowermw = 62 ; Laser power in mW used for filling the base (aka raft). (max: 62 mW for Form 1+)

[PrintSettings]
SliceHeight = 0.05 ; The layer thickness in mm. For example 0.1 is 100 microns. Be aware that values not corresponding to whole z-motor microsteps (0.0025 mm) will be rounded.
ScanlineSpacing = 0.05 ; Spacing of fill lines in mm.
InnerBoundaryOffset = 0.12
OuterBoundaryOffset = 0.03 ; Offset from model perimeter to outermost outline in mm. Conceptually this is the curing radius of the outermost outline.
Xcorrectionfactor = 1.008 ; Scale factor for the x axis to account for shrinkage.
Ycorrectionfactor = 1.008 ; Scale factor for the y axis to account for shrinkage.
ScanlineBoundaryOffset = 0.03 ; Offset in mm from the innermost outline to the boundary of the fill. If this is zero, the fill touches the innermost outline; if this is positive it does not; if this is negative, the fill overlaps at least the inner outline.
OffsetsNum = 3 ; Number of outlines to draw. min: 0; max: unlimited

[Overview]
MaterialName = Black

[laserRoutine]
firstlayerpasses = 10 ; The number of laser passes to do for layer 0 to attach to the build platform.
otherlayerpasses = 2 ; The number of laser passes to do for most layers (typically 1).
earlylayerpasses = 3 ; The number of laser passes to do for early layers as defined by earlytimesexpose.

[btwnLayerRoutine]
earlytimesexpose = 50 ; The number of layers that will be exposed earlylayerpasses times (excluding layer 0). That is, if earlytimesexpose is 3 and earlylayerpasses is 2, layer 0 will get firstlayerpasses passes, layer 1 and 2 will get 2 passes, and subsequent layers will get otherlayerpasses passes.
postlasercurewait = 1 ; Duration in seconds to wait from when the laser turns off until the motors start to move.
earlytimespeel = 22 ; The number of layers for which the p1 moves will be done. These are typically slower moves.
p1downvel = 1 ; Initial tilt speed in mm/s (at the tilt motor).
p1downmove = 10 ; Initial tilt distance in mm.
p1upvel = 4 ; Velocity of p1upmove in mm/s.
p1upmove = -10 ; Tilt up-move displacement in mm (should be negative).
p1upslowvel = 10 ; Velocity for p1upslowmove in mm/s.
p1upslowmove = -0.5 ; Additional up move in mm to overdrive into the hard stop. (Should be negative or zero.)
p2downvel = 1.5 ; Velocity of p2downmove in mm/s.
p2downmove = 7.5 ; After earlytimespeel, tilt distance in mm.
p2upvel = 10 ; Speed of p2upmove in mm/s.
p2upmove = -7.5 ; After earlytimespeel, un-tilt distance in mm. (should be negative.)
p2upslowvel = 10 ; Speed of p2upslowmove in mm/s.
p2upslowmove = -0.1 ; After earlytimespeel, overdrive distance into hard stop in mm. (Should be negative or zero.)
squishwaitmin_s = 0.25 ; Low end of the time in seconds we wait between finishing squishing and turning on the laser.
squishwaitmax_s = 2 ; High end of the time in seconds we wait between finishing squishing and turning on the laser.

About to try it, I noticed you have earlytimesexpose set to 50. I think thats pretty high. That is only suppose to be a second support of a few layers. Especially for just a small ring, maybe that’s why your butterfly bases looked so stiff. It shouldn’t take 50. I ran a test with on black v4 just now and It worked with it set to 2 you may do better with a little more but 50 is way over doing it.

that would explain why your butterflies failed at what appears to be where the earlytimeexpose would end, that base and all the layers under it are so compressed and overcured for so many layers and then the earlytimexpose period ends and the resin is to cured and to hard for new resin to cure to it.

The 5 butterfly test print was done with Preform 2.15. In that case all material configuration settings are
determined by Preform using the input Black V4.
I just did this print to check whether my printer condition baseline had changed. And it hasn’t; the print looks exactly the same as before I started working with OpenFL over a week ago. It looks identical, even after
roughing up the base, and cleaning all the optics.
Some potential reasons why it didn’t print perfectly are:

  • FL’s material configuration settings for, black V4 internal to Preform 2.15, are not optimal for my printer.
    ---- It’s not worth speculating why, only that there’s nothing I can do about it, other than moving to OpenFL.
  • The condition of my optics have degraded since Formlabs calibrated it at the factory.
    ---- This could be due to:
    -------- The mirrors getting degraded from the cleaning I’ve done
    -------- The laser is wearing out
    ------------ I ran the laser spot test again and see laser flair. I know FL hasn’t acknowledged the affects yet,
    ---------------- but this is still on my radar.
    -------- The lens on the laser is covered with haze
    ------------ This is a distinct possibility. I’ve seen this on DLP televisions. There’s a large lens that points
    ---------------- upward in these TV’s. You can see dust on the lens, but in addition to this, there’s a film that
    ---------------- can be cleaned with just water and a soft micro-fiber cloth. After the cleaning, the TV is so
    ---------------- bright and colorful, it almost strains your eyes to look at it. I did this to my Dad’s TV and he
    ---------------- said it looked like new!
    ------------ If this is the problem, it will require taking the laser apart. I might do this at some point,
    ---------------- however, only after I’ve tried fine tuning a few material configuration files.
    -------- The laser strength has diminished a bit from when the printer was new.
    ------------ This is where OpenFL will help; creating new material configuration files calibrated for the current
    ---------------- condition of my laser. This won’t compensate for an un-focused laser, but it will compensate
    ---------------- from a power standpoint.
    I’m leaning towards a film covered laser lens. This is because of my experience with DLP TV’s.

Oh, and I’m not discounting your assertion that earlytimesexpose is way too big, even though this setting comes straight out of the example .ini posted with OpenFL.

Im pretty sure it’s just the ini file and your hardware is fine.

The black was to thick and hard to clean up for me, I shelfed it for later testing. I dont think black is really for anything with high detail, i feel its more of a part resin like for a raspberry pi case or something. Its almost as thick as paint, the exposure time is way to slow for my liking. I managed to build a base and half of a ring, I feel I could get it working except the resins exposure time is just way to high for my patience

It’s interesting you say black is not for high detail. FL indicates it’s good for detail. However, I
came to the same conclusion very early on (that detail was not achievable). I was getting bat
wings around my supports and not achieving good detail in parts with small (less than 1 mm)
features. However, I didn’t give up on black, just FL black. I went with Fun2Do F1+ and got
detail I needed. Parts were soft with Fun2Do, but I was willing to give up hardness detail.

All this aside, my current task is still fine tuning my black V4 config.
I’m not going to bite yet, on your suggestion that earlytimesexpose is way too large.
I believe you, however, the 5 butterfly test print does not apply here.
I’m focused on the ring, something preventing detail/holes in the top.
I’m going to continue to reduce power and play with speed until I see some improvement.

I had the same problem with softness with Makerjuice red g+, i lowered the laser strength down a little and added an extra layer pass. This fixed the soft issue after a few tests and adjustments. without over curing.

Ya idk, I really think that 50 is to high ive used all types of resins even the black v4 I think the black v4 worked around 20 tho, Ill get to it one day

OK, I guess it’s worth a shot…next print after the one I have running right now
I’ll change earlytimesexpose to 20 and see.
What’s the worst that could happen, right?
I’ll do this without making any other changes, though.

I’ve been changing speed whenever I reduce power.
For example, last print I reduced [perimeter] power from 62 to 60 and
at the same time reduced [perimeter] speed from 1000 (which showed
definite surface affects) to 650.
I then did a test print.
Then increased speed from 650 to 800, then print.
Then increased speed from 800 to 1000, then print.
Since the last print showed definite surface issues, as well as signs of
over-curing, I reduced power from 60 to 58, but at the same time reduced
speed from 1000 to 650.

This print is in the works right now…let you know the results and then
do a print with earlytimesexpose = 20.

Each of my prints is taking 1 hr 22 minutes.
And I understand your method of speeding up the tuning process by
eliminating the peel, It just scares me when I can’t imagine the polymer
flowing under the model before printing the next layer. I can’t
understand how your able to print at all.

After I make the change to earlytimesexpose I’ll continue with
the process of lowering the power and tuning the speed til it
causes prints to fail, or I see a distinct fall-off in surface quality.
At that point, I’ll bump the power back up 1 and then fine tune
the speed one last time.
How does this sound for a good configuration tuning process?
Of coarse, a lot of other variables can come into play as well,
but, focusing on a few at a time is the only way to understand
their relationship to print quality and to each other.
Establishing an order to the process is going to take time, but
I think I’ll get it in the end…
Boy would I like to see the FL flow-chart for creating material
configuration files. I can’t imagine they would give this out to
anybody, but maybe someone has it.