Test of Blue-Cast: compatible and castable resin


I have read that you are using cast V2. I do not.
I use cast V1.
I suspect that V2 is a similar but less transparent. And so it requires a longer exposure to UV.
In my case, 1 - UV Cure until the blue color disappears.
The correct position and size of the cast.
This is the basis for the casting process.
Next recommendations concern the casting process.
After filling the mold with the sand, do not use the device to remove wax - see - (Has anyone used a steam dewaxer on the castable material? )
Sleeve with the product should be raised to be the possibility of exhaust ventilation.
Does the company foundry applies this principle to the resin cast?.
Next processes are dependent on the nature of the product and should be applied by casting.
Good luck
Sorry Google translator.


Thank you very much for the reply,I use the picture is the resin
When the print is complete the surface is very sticky,and the color is dark bule,I do not know this is not what you said bluecast


Thank you very much for the reply.
I use a home UV light ,I cure the model for at least 36 hours until the surface is no longer sticky.I can not imagine that it can be cured until the blue color disappears:slight_smile


when printing copings or crowns for dental casting what size supports do you recommend?


For make support we use a Rhino plugin. About the size we suggest a variable range: 0.3 / 0.6 mm (diametere)


Hey everybody.
I have blue cast resin & I am testing it.
I have some questions and need your help.surely your experiences will help me to get the best results.
I have an empty castable cartridge.I washed inside it with IPA 99% for at least 30 minutes and let it dry. after 1 day I added blue cast in it and print it as a castable resin not with open mode setting.because I believe that the heater and the wiper should work during a print process.
do you think that it is a logical instruction to get the best result with 3rd party resin or not?

Thanks :wink:


I need to strongly recommend against re-filling cartridges with 3rd party resins largely to protect your printer against errors or resin spills. Cartridge dispense is mechanical so different material densities will throw the calculation off. Tank level sense is measured via a capacitive sensor and different material properties will throw off the calculated tank level. At worst, this can lead to resin overflowing the tank. It is best to print in Open Mode to ensure that prints complete safely.


what can we do if we wanna heat the resin and mix the resin in open mode while the wiper doesn’t work?


Hi everyone! I am a new forum member and would like to share my experience using the Bluecast resin with you.
I started using my new Form 2 printer 3 weeks ago and so far everything has worked really nicely with a few learning experiences :slight_smile:
First, I was really impressed with Formlabs. I placed my order on Tuesday and received my printer on Friday, just 3 days later! I am in Canada, so consider all the procedures to receive products across the border!
By the time I received my FORM 2 printer, I had already read many comments and positive feedback on this forum about the bluecast resin and this was extremely helpful in my decision to try it out.
I contacted the guys from 3DGarage on facebook and ordered 1 liter of the Bluecast original. I received the resin just 5 days later via Fedex, from Italy.
3D Garage was extremely professional and helped me with great advice and guidance!! I didn’t have any print failures or any problems at all except for when I started playing with support configuration which caused me a few failures, and those mistakes were my own fault. I am willing to try new things and learn from them, so I don’t really consider them failures, but the path to an optimized outcome!!

The process is really simple and the prints come out beautiful, smooth and castings are perfect. One big advantage is that the Bluecast resin doesn’t require curing at all.

I followed the advice from a few forum members and Kat Kramer’s suggestion for a bottle warmer to warm up the resin before pouring it in the tank. I purchased it on Amazon:
Philips Avent Fast Baby Bottle Warmer, SCF355/00 - https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00LJ64JR4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1_

The process I have used:

  • I create supports in rhinogold with the plugin recommended by 3DGarage called Belsupport or with the Preform support feature. I have been playing around with support configuration to try and find the most appropriate structure, which doesn’t leave too many marks and is both economical and efficient. The Belsupport plugin is easy to use but there aren’t many videos or instructions available, but again Stefano from 3DGarage rescued me and sent me some hints after he saw one of my prints with the Preform generated supports!

  • I use the settings for Open mode, Form 2, Gray V3, in 0.05 and 0.025

  • Warm up resin to the highest setting on bottle warmer ( I have printed with both, warm and cold resin and haven’t seen much difference. But when I clean the tank to remove residues, I return the resin to its original bottle - after pouring it into a plastic up (protected from light) with a strainer – and warm it up again before pouring it back into the tank).

  • After printing, I remove parts and shake in Alcohol 70% (I could only find 70% or 99% near my place). I shake it for 30 seconds in the first bucket and move to the second bucket and repeat for another 30 seconds. I leave the piece to dry naturally and then repeat the quick alcohol bath and let it dry again.

  • I remove the support structure. This is what creates issues as I was pulling the support and it would create dents in the prints. So now, I clip them with the pliers and carefully sand the support marks and file with a very fine file. I usually shake the part in alcohol once again to remove the sanding dust.

  • I leave the print to dry naturally, only 30 minutes or less.

  • Send to casting house with NO instructions.

  • Receive beautiful castings of my jewelry parts.

I have attached a few pictures of the castings and prints.
I take this opportunity to thank everyone on this forum for all the precious information you provide. I was ready to print even before I received my printer because of all the hints, feedback and guidance from you guys!! Thank you so much!!! Also thank you to Bluecast and the 3DGarage for an excellent product and a fantastic customer service!!! I couldn’t be happier :slight_smile:


Thank you very much because you shared many helpful experiences :wink:
I have a problem in Z-axis. don’t you have any problem in z-axis after you messeure size of printed model in z axis & xy axis?(thickness)


I haven’t had this problem… I do get some uneven thickness if the area isn’t supported properly though. :slight_smile:


we have 0.2 mm diffrence in z-axis thickness in some areas. do you think it is because of supported incorrect?


I had a ring that printed with a similar problem, most of the shank was 2 mm thick but at the bottom it had about 0.3mm missing. I changed the support structure and it printed correctly. I think some areas may sag or not print correctly if supports are not adequate. I am not sure it is your problem, but I would try to change the support or orientation and print again.


Just cast a ring in sterling from bluecast… Having some investment breakdown… I have had some good castings except when i have highly detailed heavy rings. These cast fine from wax so it is not a sprueing issue… any thoughts?



@llyy118, can you describe or show a picture of what a “home UV light” is? Do you mean like a UV unit used for curing nail polish, or other?

If your surface of Castable V2 is sticky, then it is not cured properly, and you will get rough surfaces on your castings.

This forum is talking about another product…Bluecast…which is not the same as the Formlabs Castable V2 resin.


@zomorrodjewelry, I purchased a baby formula warmer on Amazon, which heats formula to 104°F (40°C), which is the temperature recommended by Bluecast. Here is a link to the product: https://www.amazon.com/Philips-AVENT-Bottle-Warmer-Fast/dp/B00LJ64JR4

I store the Bluecast in the bottle it came in, and don’t leave the resin in the tank. That way it’s easy to fit the Bluecast bottle in the formula warmer. I purchased some disposable funnels and the paper cone filters, and after each printing session I filter the resin and put it back in the bottle. It’s a little more of a hassle, but I’ve had a Formlabs tank crack with castable resin, so I NEVER leave resin in the tank for more than a day or two.

I did sand my platform because I had problems with models not sticking in the beginning. I’ve found that open mode (a little scary at first!) works just fine with the warmed resin. I think I also adjusted the Z axis setting as recommended in other posts. I’m using the Gray resin setting.

Other tips…I have had MUCH better results with more sprues that provide better ventilation. I used to be afraid of adding sprues, because to me, sprues meant MORE CLEANUP. I can tell you that it’s well worth it. In fact, @arthurr43, I’m wondering if your investment breakdown is actually incomplete burnout with ash that didn’t escape. I would ask what investment you’re using and what your sprues look like. I’m using Plasticast WITHOUT BANDUST and not going to 1450°F (787°C)…I go to 1350°F and hold longer.



I am using the plasticast without bandust also. How long do you hold the 1350? I am holding 1400 for 2.5 hours. Have had good results with other models but not giohly detailed ones. I use 1 heavy (approx 8mm) sprue on the bottomof shank with 2 3mm feeders going to the top area. Always has been successful with wax sprueing this way. . Waiting to hear back from bluecast for thieir thoughts.



Sounds like good spruing to me, although I’m definitely not an expert. Just noticing that more sprues seem to result in better casts these days, and seems to be related to good airflow. I’m also burning out initially with button down, then turning button side up sometime during the burnout.

Is it the only ring in the flask? Are you using perforated flasks or solid? What size? Vacuum casting or centrifugal? (My experience is more with vacuum…)

I think I held at 3 hours at 1350°F. I had talked with Ransom & Randolph while troubleshooting my Plasticast castings, and they told me that Plasticast breaks down at 1450°F (787°C), so they recommended lowering the temperature back to 1350°F (732°C). I had perfect casts after that with none of the problems you showed in the photos, but I did have those same problems previously.

I did not have perfect results with the super-fast burnout schedule, but haven’t experimented with it since. I’m using a standard Plasticast burnout schedule with the higher temperature burnout…not the Formlabs schedule, which doesn’t seem to take flask size into consideration.


Thank you very much for your reply, I would like to ask where I can buy this forum in the blue cast


Hi @llyy118 you can buy your bluecast on www.3dgarage.it or write an email to 3dgarage.bg@gmail.com andi place order