Test of Blue-Cast: compatible and castable resin


#99

As I understood you postcured BlueCast Resin?
We always suggest to avoid postcuring, because both UV and heat inside oven will shrink delicate patterns like filigree.

Adhesion issues are not due to shrinking during print, but are due to the high content of polymers that help sublimation and burnout.

in order to avoid unpredictable shrinkage:

  • do quick baths into alchool and dry with air asap
  • avoid exposing models to heat/uv
  • prepare cylinder asap

Worst to do is to leave models submerged for minutes into alchool, it will solve polymers inside resin matrix and take place of them, when it evaporates you get a pattern contraction…

Feel free to contact me for support about those issues, also in private.


#100

No postcured BlueCast resin.
I wrote that BlueCast very well cast.
" prepare cylinder asap" However, you need rapid cast.
Thank you for the advice.
Regards


#101

Casted Today!

Start to finish 3 1/2 hours. Metall Thickness 0,27mm. Shrinkage 0. Direct from the printer to the flask! Only difference, i use WAXIT from DeguDent since my last castings, no more Teflon spray, and the details are INCREDIBLE! Much better than with teflon! Or i bought the wrong teflon spray, can also be. But i am pretty happy for now, that with WAXIT, the castings come out so perfectly!

Rest is same procedure like i described last time!

The metal is absolutely perfect. No porosity, it is ideal to smith and bend. Cast, polish, done! A dream!

Trump mode on: all i can say is i love that resin. I really do. It is the best resin i ever had. It really is. - Trump mode off!

maybe i sound like a fanboy, but i waited extremely long for sucth a workflow. A “cheap” investment(not dental), a good resin, a good printer.

Finally it works FAST and reasonybly priced. Don´t let some guys who are not THAT satisfied ruine that huge step forward in rapid prototyping!

Hope for you Marek youll find your workflow soon too, then youll love it!

have a nice evening - Chris!


#102

Hi! Hello everyone!
I am a beginner. I use the form2 3D printer. The material is Castable V2 (FLCABL02), the print layer thickness is the highest resolution 0.025mm. (model printing is perfect)

After printing with 90% alcohol cleaning, and the use of household UV light irradiation for 8 hours. The overall impression of the model surface is not very dry. Is this normal?

In the picture, I asked the foundry to cast the product, 925 silver casting, strictly according to the official website of the combustion curve heating. Gypsum mold powder is serious, casting surface looks very rough.
I want to know where the problem is.<img


#103

Illyy118 is this the BlueCast Resin? This looks a lot for me that your oven was not hot enough and you did not get out the whole resin. If it was bluecast contact their support, they will guide you through the investment and casting process. Seems like oyu have a lot of errors in your whole casting prozess. Beginning with UV Cure!
Bluecast shall NOT be uv cured and also doesnt need a special burnout curve. But you need knowledge of casting, flask temp, material temp and so on and especially you need to know your tools. How accurate your temps are, how clean your water and flasks are, how good your mixing is, what investment you use and especially how you mix it and prepare your models before you put the mixed investment into the flask itself!

And if this is not made with bluecast, well you should definetly try it!

Chris!


#104

I have read that you are using cast V2. I do not.
I use cast V1.
I suspect that V2 is a similar but less transparent. And so it requires a longer exposure to UV.
In my case, 1 - UV Cure until the blue color disappears.
The correct position and size of the cast.
This is the basis for the casting process.
Next recommendations concern the casting process.
After filling the mold with the sand, do not use the device to remove wax - see - (Has anyone used a steam dewaxer on the castable material? )
Sleeve with the product should be raised to be the possibility of exhaust ventilation.
Does the company foundry applies this principle to the resin cast?.
Next processes are dependent on the nature of the product and should be applied by casting.
Good luck
Sorry Google translator.


#105

Thank you very much for the reply,I use the picture is the resin
When the print is complete the surface is very sticky,and the color is dark bule,I do not know this is not what you said bluecast


#106

Thank you very much for the reply.
I use a home UV light ,I cure the model for at least 36 hours until the surface is no longer sticky.I can not imagine that it can be cured until the blue color disappears:slight_smile


#107

when printing copings or crowns for dental casting what size supports do you recommend?


#108

For make support we use a Rhino plugin. About the size we suggest a variable range: 0.3 / 0.6 mm (diametere)


#109

Hey everybody.
I have blue cast resin & I am testing it.
I have some questions and need your help.surely your experiences will help me to get the best results.
I have an empty castable cartridge.I washed inside it with IPA 99% for at least 30 minutes and let it dry. after 1 day I added blue cast in it and print it as a castable resin not with open mode setting.because I believe that the heater and the wiper should work during a print process.
do you think that it is a logical instruction to get the best result with 3rd party resin or not?

Thanks :wink:


#110

I need to strongly recommend against re-filling cartridges with 3rd party resins largely to protect your printer against errors or resin spills. Cartridge dispense is mechanical so different material densities will throw the calculation off. Tank level sense is measured via a capacitive sensor and different material properties will throw off the calculated tank level. At worst, this can lead to resin overflowing the tank. It is best to print in Open Mode to ensure that prints complete safely.


#111

what can we do if we wanna heat the resin and mix the resin in open mode while the wiper doesn’t work?


#112

Hi everyone! I am a new forum member and would like to share my experience using the Bluecast resin with you.
I started using my new Form 2 printer 3 weeks ago and so far everything has worked really nicely with a few learning experiences :slight_smile:
First, I was really impressed with Formlabs. I placed my order on Tuesday and received my printer on Friday, just 3 days later! I am in Canada, so consider all the procedures to receive products across the border!
By the time I received my FORM 2 printer, I had already read many comments and positive feedback on this forum about the bluecast resin and this was extremely helpful in my decision to try it out.
I contacted the guys from 3DGarage on facebook and ordered 1 liter of the Bluecast original. I received the resin just 5 days later via Fedex, from Italy.
3D Garage was extremely professional and helped me with great advice and guidance!! I didn’t have any print failures or any problems at all except for when I started playing with support configuration which caused me a few failures, and those mistakes were my own fault. I am willing to try new things and learn from them, so I don’t really consider them failures, but the path to an optimized outcome!!

The process is really simple and the prints come out beautiful, smooth and castings are perfect. One big advantage is that the Bluecast resin doesn’t require curing at all.

I followed the advice from a few forum members and Kat Kramer’s suggestion for a bottle warmer to warm up the resin before pouring it in the tank. I purchased it on Amazon:
Philips Avent Fast Baby Bottle Warmer, SCF355/00 - https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00LJ64JR4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1_

The process I have used:

  • I create supports in rhinogold with the plugin recommended by 3DGarage called Belsupport or with the Preform support feature. I have been playing around with support configuration to try and find the most appropriate structure, which doesn’t leave too many marks and is both economical and efficient. The Belsupport plugin is easy to use but there aren’t many videos or instructions available, but again Stefano from 3DGarage rescued me and sent me some hints after he saw one of my prints with the Preform generated supports!

  • I use the settings for Open mode, Form 2, Gray V3, in 0.05 and 0.025

  • Warm up resin to the highest setting on bottle warmer ( I have printed with both, warm and cold resin and haven’t seen much difference. But when I clean the tank to remove residues, I return the resin to its original bottle - after pouring it into a plastic up (protected from light) with a strainer – and warm it up again before pouring it back into the tank).

  • After printing, I remove parts and shake in Alcohol 70% (I could only find 70% or 99% near my place). I shake it for 30 seconds in the first bucket and move to the second bucket and repeat for another 30 seconds. I leave the piece to dry naturally and then repeat the quick alcohol bath and let it dry again.

  • I remove the support structure. This is what creates issues as I was pulling the support and it would create dents in the prints. So now, I clip them with the pliers and carefully sand the support marks and file with a very fine file. I usually shake the part in alcohol once again to remove the sanding dust.

  • I leave the print to dry naturally, only 30 minutes or less.

  • Send to casting house with NO instructions.

  • Receive beautiful castings of my jewelry parts.

I have attached a few pictures of the castings and prints.
I take this opportunity to thank everyone on this forum for all the precious information you provide. I was ready to print even before I received my printer because of all the hints, feedback and guidance from you guys!! Thank you so much!!! Also thank you to Bluecast and the 3DGarage for an excellent product and a fantastic customer service!!! I couldn’t be happier :slight_smile:


#113

Thank you very much because you shared many helpful experiences :wink:
I have a problem in Z-axis. don’t you have any problem in z-axis after you messeure size of printed model in z axis & xy axis?(thickness)


#114

I haven’t had this problem… I do get some uneven thickness if the area isn’t supported properly though. :slight_smile:


#115

we have 0.2 mm diffrence in z-axis thickness in some areas. do you think it is because of supported incorrect?


#116

I had a ring that printed with a similar problem, most of the shank was 2 mm thick but at the bottom it had about 0.3mm missing. I changed the support structure and it printed correctly. I think some areas may sag or not print correctly if supports are not adequate. I am not sure it is your problem, but I would try to change the support or orientation and print again.
:slight_smile:


#117

Just cast a ring in sterling from bluecast… Having some investment breakdown… I have had some good castings except when i have highly detailed heavy rings. These cast fine from wax so it is not a sprueing issue… any thoughts?

thanks
art


#118

@llyy118, can you describe or show a picture of what a “home UV light” is? Do you mean like a UV unit used for curing nail polish, or other?

If your surface of Castable V2 is sticky, then it is not cured properly, and you will get rough surfaces on your castings.

This forum is talking about another product…Bluecast…which is not the same as the Formlabs Castable V2 resin.