unfortunately i didnt take any photos prior to cutting and sanding but there are still a few bits showing on the white prints from these photos. I will do another print and see if I get the same problem and upload better photos of the post print stages
May I ask how you create the STL files in the first place? Donât dentists normally take silicone molds and then work from that?
we take either alginate or silicon based impressions of patient - plaster cast the moulds then using our dental scanner scan the plaster cast models and manipulate the image in CAD to suit the purpose. So making retainers or clear aligners we have done a treatment then cut after to get the model ready for printing. if its for demonstration purposes we add virtual bases and then print like shown. I have just been playing around with the printer on various sizes of models and colours of resins. there are scanners out there that can capture images directly in the patients mouth or impressions themselves without ever getting to plaster models but I dont have those to use. So its a bit labour intensive all the stages to get to the finished print.
Shouldnât you make the model platform so that it is say 2mm thick with a 45 degree negative draft. Doing so allow you to hook the model with that pry-off tool thing.
Another thing, I never remove the build plat from the machine. One a job has printed I grab hold of the support with pliers or tweezers and wedge the pry off thing into the edge where the build platform and the model platform meet. Once the model is off I use the flat scraper thing to coat the build platform with a layer of resin for the next print. I find that removing the build platform is a total nuisance and a total mess.
Here is an image of wht I am referring to when I speak of the 2mm model platform with the 45 degree negative draft.
if you lay the flat side of the supplied spru cutters on the build platform and snip at the edge of the support base the part should just pop off. Who ever designed that support base at Formlabs is a genius.
Trucka are in which scale?
I just removed two large non-supported and over 4mm thick solid base part from the plate. I put the plate with the prints on it in freezer for one hour when tiny space shows on the edge of bottom. amazing. Thank you.
Happy printing!
Thatâs nice to know. Are there any other tricks to removing tough resin of the plate out there?
Did anybody tried to refrigerate IPA and wash the part directly on the build plate? Probably not as cold as compresses air, but might be enough to help taking off the part�?? I might try it on my next print.
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I tried this and it did not work for me at all. Maybe itâs because Iâm using the tough resin. But was a major pain to get off.
I tried it for first time today using your method (can of air), I love it. I will print no support for small parts from now on. Or any parts until it fail. Support take twice as long and use twice the amount of resin. You are saving me money, thank you. For small parts, i know i do not need support, but previously removing them break them. Huge thumb up for you.
Parts printed directly on the platform will not be dimensionally accurate in Z⊠so if thatâs a concern for you, particularly if they are small. Avoid it.
The printer compresses the first few layers to encourage adhesion⊠support or not, so that compression results in inaccuracies.
Nice to know, I will always try without support first, if it does not work out, Bring out the support. I am not against support, At present, some parts will not work without support. Just need cutter ,sandpaper and mineral oil.
Alas, it work for some prints, but fail on flat thin print, it warp after a few hours. So sad, i wish i do not have to file these print anymore, but the work to remove support continue, even with your simple trick. Did the cold warp the print?
I just use a can of compressed air turned upside down, spray onto base where it joins build plate. Same air used for cleaning keyboards.