Making something as simple as a friction-fit handle is not a good idea on a Form1+ because when it comes time to friction-fit it, the resin is brittle. And even if you don’t break it, the resin will stretch over the course of a few days and loosen up. And the current flexible does not solve this either. Where would protoLabs.com be with materials like the resins in the Form1+? This would launch 3D Printing out of the toy arena.
Here’s the sales pitch - Everything in this world (except toys) was carefully designed based on the material it was to be built out of. So if you want to reproduce a part without re-designing it you need to use the correct material.
I see that link in the last post for ABS Resin has been clicked 13 times. Has anyone purchased a bottle? I would love to hear from someone that tried a bottle!
My bottle just arrived (somehow it allowed me to order just one bottle, but I just checked and that has been fixed on their site). I’m looking for the other thread, was this the resin that wanted a teflon coated tank?
Just to chime in on this thread, I contacted the distributor for the 3D Materials ABS (?) resin and they said it wasn’t compatible with the Form 1+. It needs a teflon-lined tank, apparently.
I don’t think anyone said the oMaker ABS resin needed any tank mods.
I ordered some MakerJuice SF and MadeSolid Vorex resins, both of which claim to be Form1 compatible (though results of comparos I could find suggested they aren’t going to be as “good” from a quality of print standpoint). I am printing structural parts for Radio Control aircraft. I need a resin that has substantially less brittle than the Form1 resins. The flexible resin is too soft, and also it’s terrible in tension and easily separates when pulled. I’d considered an experiment with a mix of Flexible and Clear, but decided to try these options, first. The SF arrived today. Vorex probably tomorrow. So I’ll definitely be printing something this weekend.
Ok, so first results are not terribly encouraging. I have only run two prints so far, the first using settings for the black resin, the second using grey 01. The resin seems to cure with less energy than the FL stuff. Set to black, the smallest branches of any support structure aligned with the flare on my machine were actually fused together. Support on surfaces that ran perpendicular rather than parallel to flare looked ok (If nothing else this is evidence of energy in the flare curing resin). The part was so brittle it did not survive support structure removal, but I could see that thin features that ran perpendicular to my flare were visibly thicker than equally dimensioned walls running parallel. At grey 01 setting, the supports were not fused, and I was able to remove them without breaking the object. The supports themselves did end up pulverized to practically dust during removal though, as opposed to the FL clear02 that I have been using with the same parts where the supports come off in tact. The part looked better, thin walls were appeared were more consistent. Unfortunately the part still seemed over cured; it is much more brittle than the FL or makerjuice, and cracked practically just by looking at it. I will run another test at clear01. So far I am walking away from these tests with the conclusion that the Formlabs guys are doing a pretty great job with their resin formulations.
I originally printed the landing gear thing in FL Clear 02. It felt plenty strong, but was decimated by the first hard landing of the copter it was attached to (a small “quad” copter that weighs about 3 Oz). I’ve done some drop tests with the new print and am optimistic. The MJSF resin is significantly more “springy” than the FL resins. If I take the base from the print (after separating the supports from the print) and bend it, I would guesstimate I’m putting better than 2x the bend in to the cured resin before experiencing a failure. It does still break with a glass-like fracture same as the FL resins do, but it’s much “deader” when it does - pieces don’t go flying across the room (or in to my eye). It doesn’t feel like ABS, but it definitely feels more ABS-like than the FL resins do…
I finally got around to running a print with the oMaker ABS resin at clear01 power setting, and unfortunately results are consistent with last results; the part is super brittle. It also seems to have warped more than the clear02 I’ve been using. What’s the best way to clean out a resin tank? I should have used an old tank for these tests but I didn’t have one so burned a new one… oh well.
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