I am attempting to remake production parts, but the issue I am having is that the standard resins are too brittle and the tough it too flexible. I would like people’s input on other resins, like an ABS or 15% glass filled nylon.
Has anyone tried using Carbon 3D M1’s Cyanate Ester or Polyurethane resins in a Formlabs unit?
Can you provide the open setting for this resin?
Off the top of my head, no. But the manufacturer publishes settings for Form1 printers, and those same settings ought to translate to the Form2 in Open Mode… the manufacturer is “MadeSolid” and they have a website. But it doesn’t seem quite right to cross link to them from FormLabs’ forum, so you’ll have to look 'em up in Google for yourself. 
Gray V1 for all Vorex and MS resins.
Does FL have an issue with discussing competing resins on the Forum?
If so they need to make that clear in the rules, as it is their Forum.
I would hope that a free exchange of ideas is more important than commercial interests. As we have purchased their machines and other accessories and will continue to do so, it is not like they don’t benefit even if other resins are used.
No, they have not complained in the past. Obviously, they’re not going to raise a finger to support anyone who’s having problems with a 3rd party resin, but they haven’t objected to the discussion. Search for “Vorex” and you’ll see it’s been talked about before…
I just figured as a common courtesy to FL, I wouldn’t link to a competitor from their forum. I’m sure they would have not cared a bit if I had. Just a matter of personal preference on my part.
Randy
I can appreciate your courtesy to them.
At the same time I am going thru a lot of resin now so any cost saving is obviously important to me.
Well, I can attest to the results achieved with Vorex. You can see in the picture I posted how hard I’m pressing down to deflect the part. And it came right back to its original shape when I let go (Tough takes a while to creep back). Vorex still exhibits a glass-like fracture when it yields, and I’d say it’ll break at deflections where Tough will still be bending. But Vorex prints seem stiffer than Tough, which probably explains what I’ve observed.
Vorex is more like a stronger version of the standard FL resins, where Tough is more like a more-flexible version of those resins.
Vorex won’t survive the hammer blow that FL shows Touch surviving in their Tough promotional video.
I also tried the MakerJuice “strong” resin. If I recall it was less expensive. But I found it wanting. Not much better than the FL standard resins. Was glad I’d only sprung for a 500ml bottle.
I’ve bought plenty of Vorex though. It comes in Orange, Black, White and maybe some other colors by now vs. just Blue for Tough. I kind of like the Orange, actually. Though I’ve used White and Black too.
Which resin setting do you use on your form2 in open mode Randy_Cohen? Do you print black vorex with FL black or just go with the recommended Grey V1? Thanks!
I use the settings recommended by MS. But I have not printed with Vorex on my Form2, only on my Form1.
Hmmm…Thanks for the info Randy_Cohen. So the question remains which setting to use on the Form2…Guess I will go ahead and try black V2 given that it is Black Vorex… Any one else have input here?
I would use the Gray V1 to start.
MadeSolid knows what color their Vorex is, and they say use the same setting for all the colors. Second guessing them would seem to me to be an ill-advised decision.
Grey V1 is Grey V1 whether it’s on a Form1 or a Form2. It’s exposure time we’re talking about. If I were going to print Vorex on my F2, I would stick with the MS recommended setting of Grey V1 just like I used on my F1, and not mess around.
Worth adding, I’ve printed Transparent Orange, Black, White and Grey Vorex on my F1 and it all printed just fine with the Grey V1 setting!
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