Queen of Pain figure

Hello! I just wanted to share a project I am currently working on. It still has parts that need to be attached and then the whole thing needs to be added to the base. Are you working on anything neat at the moment? Do share :slight_smile:

20170918_120754

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Very nice. PLease finish it up, and share the finishing process.

That’s the plan :slight_smile: I still have not decided how to attach the wings and hand to the model itself, as it needs to be glued on. Liquid resin might be a solution, but the point where they meet is quite small, so I think heavy duty glue is more likely to hold properly.

Looks nice, though I think you probably have too many supports which makes it more difficult to clean up.

It fell off supports the first time, so I over supported to be on the safe side.

CA glue (hobby grade thin cyonacrylate) works great, and will hold well. I usually use CA glue to hold the parts together, then use liquid resin to fill in the gaps, after which I sand lightly to blend it in

I use Bondic with a 405mu laser pen.
This is the way your model was made so the adherence is better than CA.

Also when you are making parts that eventually fit together, FORMLABs advises to add pins and holes so that the parts lock together where you want them to.

If you have specific location use a triangular pin and triangular hole. Make sure the pin is smaller by about 3 to 4% than the hole size because an exact fit will not work.

This looks great! Did you model this entirely yourself, or just rework models from the Steam shop?

I’ve been looking to print some Dota models with my Form, but haven’t really found any that are high enough res to merit the use of the resin (over FDM).

That works so well, especially for more-opaque parts, where the light cannot penetrate to cure. I use the BSI thin. Unless one goes directly to assembly and bypasses the cleaning phase, the CA will bond better than resin, since the O2-inhibited resin-active layer is now removed. Does anyone know why FL didn’t acquire the water-washable resin from Spectrum Laser? Curious about its physical attributes.

Thanks for the tip! I’ll definitely try it out.

Hi alan! Most of the model has this already, only the wings and the actual hand holding the flame do not. No clue why. My Meshmixer skills are not great, that’s why I’m going for glue instead of modifications on the model.

@armstrongc93 I did not model this myself, I’m not particularly good at modeling. I found the model on MyMiniFactory, there are quite a few good ones there. They also had Axe, Sniper, Ursa, Doom, Sand King, Drow Ranger and a few others.

If there is room for it, I would drill o hole in both parts and put a piece of wire in there.
That way, if the part breaks of it might still be hanging in the wire and not fall of.
If you makes some dents in the wire with the cutter or a Dremel the wire will get a better bond.

Currently working on this Vampire thing.
Just got the hair out from the printer.
Have to remodel teeth before i continue.
They are a bit to thin to print properly.

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Your model looks cool @Hellborn
Thanks for your suggestion, i might try that with the hand, but the wings have a very small area where the models will meet. I’ll have to see how they sit on the model, if needed, I might just add a support from underneath for them. The model has to be ready by the 27th.

I’m not great at it either (at least mesh modeling) so don’t worry!

I forget about myminifactory all the time, thanks for the tip :slight_smile:

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If you want to add some supporting material i suggest you first glue the parts together then sculpt some extra material on it. If you can get your hand at some Epoxie Clay such as Aves Apoxie or maybe some Citadel Green Stuff. They give you enough working time (about an hour) to sculpt something that looks god. Apoxie Sculpt is my favorite but might be harder to get in a store near by. Worst case you can use Epoxie Plummer Putty but it will only give you about 5 minutes worktime.

Another thing you can try is to mix uv resin with talcum powder or flower or some other powder until you get something like clay. You can then build up in layers of a mm or two curing the layers with UV light when your satisfied. Use a brush with IPA to shape and smooth before curing.

I have created my own UV clay that way that I use for some traditional sculpting where I need long worktime and short cure time.

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Amazing model!

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Answering Alina’s request, this is the assembly of many many months of work! My partner and I were planning on just making car bodies to go on existing model chassis, but after I went a little crazy making a motor for a 1968 Lotus Indy car, we decided to go full bore and make complete model kits. I’m printing as a proof of concept, but my digital designs are headed to the mold maker and we’re hoping for delivery by the end of the year. The body has 7 parts and the chassis almost 120! Dropbox - 20170905_105039.mp4 - Simplify your life
Dropbox - 20170905_105102.mp4 - Simplify your life

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Wow, that is super detailed and looks amazing!

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