I just got Form 2 printer, had no time to waste so I started to print small key chain. At the beginning there was error with some sensor problem, on forum and support I found out that I need to clear sensor, or I put try too strong inside… Solution, put out resin tank, clear sensor and get back and start again, but problem was that my wiper was on right and it was not possible to put out resin tank. I found solution on second post helped me “you’ve inserted the tank into the tank bed too sgressively” So i was putting tank too strong inside and too close to sensor obviously. Now it is printing everything is fine but have million questions about what to do next. After print scrape this model from build platform, put it 10 minutes in 99,9% IPA then in second tank with IPA too? I don’t have UV lamp at the moment is it good to clean it with water and left it to get harder? Also how do I clear build platform?
Second question is how to clear resin tank? and what to do with resin in tank? left it for next print ? I have white resin by the way.
Health? I can smell this resin, is it healthy to breath it? printer is 15 cm from my working monitor. I was thinking to make glass hermetic box with ventilation to outside?
IPA is it dangerous? What is best solution for you after print? what are yours experiences ?
Thanks in advance 
Hey @Komy, I see you just posted it, so I’ll give it a shot.
I’ve run into the issue with the wiper being in the way…I do not know if this is the “official” answer, but you can gently move it to a different position. You’re not alone…I ran into this early on.
After printing, use the pry tool to pry the print from the platform and drop it into the IPA tank. Make sure that the basket is in the left tank before you do that and that there’s enough IPA to cover. Move the basket up and down to “wash” the part. With a keychain you can probably leave it in 10 minutes, then move the basket to the IPA on the right and wash the part again. Leave it in the IPA for another 10 minutes. This time will vary…if you’re printing very delicate parts, they say to leave it for a little less time (I make mostly jewelry, and I might leave delicate earrings in for 5-6 minutes).
If you have had a print failure at all, you might want to filter the resin into another container. Use “cone” type paper paint filters that are used for filtering paint before running it through a sprayer. I’m thinking you might be outside the US…we use quart containers here, so yours might be a liter container.
Use the putty knife (black handle with silver blade) to carefully and lightly scrape the resin toward the pour spout…the spout on the back where the resin fills. Make sure there are no “flakes” of resin in the tank, then put the resin back in the tank. I ALWAYS store resin in the tank in the box, or in the container. Do not leave tanks on your printer for any extended period of time.
The smell can be an issue for some people. You will smell it more while printing. Removing the tray when you’re not printing and keeping it in the box will help with that. I’m not sure if it’s toxic, but probably not good for you either way. I’ve noticed my printer doesn’t really have much of an odor as it did when I first got it.
The IPA is probably not good as well, but I just keep it in the wash station with the lids closed. Wear the rubber gloves if you’re concerned about contact with skin.
I would recommend the UV light, although I’ve never used the white resin. You could leave it outside in the sun, but rotate the print and make sure that all sides are exposed to the sun.
Here’s a Formlabs article on straining the resin.
What kinds of things will you be doing with your printer? Congratulations on your new printer, and welcome!
I guess it is success first print 
It has crack on the middle but it continue to print and it weld good, so i don’ care too much about crack because this is first test print. Quality was perfect, didn’t expect to be so good, and small details with letters you can see.
What do I do with resin on Build platform? How do I clean that and do I clean it
How do I store printer, on Sunday it can be really hot in office because nobody work? We put trash bag on it to keep dust away from
Printing architectual models
Komy just a quick note on some of what we do with our prints and printers. We are a vinyl extrusion company so most of our prints are prototypes of some sort of extruded shape.
We use a lot of white resin and keep unused resin in the tank, in the printer. We have many resin tanks and the ones that are not in the printers are kept in the original boxes with the black lids on the tanks. We stack the boxes on top of each other for storage.
One note on white, black and gray resin; if the tank has sat sometime without being used for a print, the pigment will settle out some and form a film on the top of the PDMS layer. I gently use the supplied scraper to “groom” the PDMS layer until no pigment is stuck on it but has all mixed back into the resin. We have had one tank leak but I believe that was caused by my aggressive grooming of the tank. I basically pulled the PDMS layer away from the walls of the tank and though it moved back in place, resin got under the PDMS and eventually leaked out of the bottom of the tank.
To clean the build platform, once I have removed the print, I simply wipe the excess resin off of the entire platform using paper towels soaked with alcohol. We use a scraper with a beveled edge to pry the print off of the build platform. It is like the supplied scraper but the blade is thicker and has a bevel on the flat edge (somewhat like the edge of a knife). This works well and is a simple task.
Our cleaning method is different from what most do or is suggested. We use 1 gallon steel paint cans for our IPA cleaning baths (you can source these on Amazon). We store cleaning tools in the supplied plastic containers which we partially fill with clean alcohol. I soak the parts in can #1 while I am removeing other prints from the platform. Since many of our shapes have large flat surfaces, I gently scape off the “slimy” uncured resin with the beveled scraper and wipe the removed resin on a paper towel. After that I use a “red scuff pad” (3M product) that is soaked in IPA and scrub the outer surface of the print. The print then goes into can #2 (clean IPA) for a final soak. I usually scuff the parts again but rather lightly this time and then dry with a paper towel. In any hollows in the prints I remove the supports with a flat chisel and remove any remaining nubs with hand files. Any hollows those tools will not fit in I clean with test tube brushes.
Sorry, I guess this wasn’t a “quick note” but I hope the info and description of the methods used helps.
Besty of luck with your new printer !
So I printed little bigger key chain and it looks great!
After print my steps goes this way
1.wash with water, using bottle that came with Form2 so I use small nozzle with pressure. I use this as first step to remove this oilish thing from my model and resin so I don’t mess my IPA
2. Put in IPA (Isopropyl alcohol 99.9%) for 6- 10 minutes
3. Put in another tank also with IPA 5 minutes
4. Let it rest 12-24 hours on desk
So my question is do I need more steps like curing on sun or UV lamps, putting some protective coats etc? Also what type of color can I use to paint model and what are steps for it?
Thanks in advance 
Komy,
Your print looks good, my concern is that using this as a key chain, the loop (circle on the one end ) may be too weak once in use. I would thicken that up considerably as I think the current design would break in use.
Personally if I were printing a key chain, I would use Durable resin. We have used Durable for several prints and it makes for a very strong print. You could probably leave the loop in your design the same size you currently have it if you would print it in durable. The standard resins (black, gray, clear & white) can be a bit brittle.
Your cleaning method sounds fine if you are pleased with it (part is not “sticky” once out of the final IPA bath). We do use a light box to cure our prints sometimes, it depends on their ultimate use. We always cure durable. FormLabs has suggestions on how long to cure each resin type. Durable requires 1 hour per side. So put it in the light box for an hour, turn it on the other side and leave it in the light box for another hour.
We have found that the Tough resin can also be brittle and break at certain areas on some prints. It is harder to break than the standard resins though.
With regards to painting. We do paint some parts and we use Krylon brand spray paint (in the spray can). It will have on the label “for use on plastics” or some similar text…I am going from memory with that quote it may be stated differently on the can,
I do no special preparation prior to painting, I just go through my normal cleaning process and then apply the paint. I do as directed on the can by applying several thin coats vs one or two heavy coats. We have only painted the standard resins, I do not know how Durable or Tough does with paint.
Best of luck,
It’s best to use IPA first to clean after printing–it will help dissolve the excess resin, after that it’s good to rinse it in water and let it cure for a few minutes under water which will make the outside cure and remove stickiness. If you do water first then you might be curing some resin that you could have dissolved with IPA.
Oxygen prevents curing which is why submerging the print in water can help the outside cure since it blocks the air.
tnx guys for your replies :)Key chain is for mirror in car 
so it is strong enough to survive, but will it melt on sun??? i will put in IPA first that have logic I tested paint for glass, it is good, but you have to put it with a brush… so it left marks behind it when it dries. I am looking for good airbrush, do you have something to recommend. Also I am looking for creating molds on printer and later put plastic inside. Do you know something good to recommend for second step?
The resin won’t melt in the sun but it might become brittle and more easily break.
Your cleaning process sounds great and the only additional step might be to leave the part in the Sun for a while or to use a cure box. This will improve the mechanical properties of your parts but isn’t essential for most Standard Resin applications.
Our materials don’t melt but will start to deform when exposed to high temperatures. Standard Resin parts that haven’t been post-cured can withstand temperatures up to 50C and post-cured parts can withstand 73C.
This post-cured step, can I do that lets say 10 days after print, in any time, or immediately after print and IPA soak? I will buy next week this UV nail thing and made box 
I will put my process on forum
We recommend waiting an hour between the part coming out of IPA and going into the UV cure box. Waiting for longer won’t adversely affect the part and it will likely cure a bit on its own just from ambient sunlight.