Maker juice issues


#1

So i was looking for a cheaper Resin for my form1+. since 150 per litter is out of my budget.
so i picked up a litter of the black and 1/2 litter of the red from maker juice. this stuff sucks. its very inconstant and not only that i haven’t had a successful print with it. the prints come out but they are deformed or just shit.
im not sure if i am doing something wrong here. im just frustrated at this now. i really want to get this working but it seems i am not ment to get this form 1+ working
http://imgur.com/Bok8lBl the deformed side is the support side

http://imgur.com/EZn4ZCx - did not even finish just like it stopped printing part of it

http://imgur.com/OvoaDSY - thought i had figured it out but it bends to the base…(away from supports)

http://imgur.com/kwIbAIM my two attempts. one to the right(top) is hallow the deformed side is again the support side

Printer info
FormLaps From1+
settings:
layer thickness: .1
material: black, V2 FLGPBK02) using the Formlabs settings figuring that should work the best.
support settings:
density: 1
Point-size: .6mm
Slope multiplier
base thickness: 2mm
height above base: 5mm


#2

Have you attempted to create a custom .ini file for better results?

I would start with a rather small object that is easy to measure and adjust accordingly.

I think others have tried Maker Juice in the past with mixed results. I have never used it. I think Maker Juice is on the forum (or the creator) You may want to message him.

Hopefully he will stop by and may have some suggestions for better results.


#3

i have no idea what an INI file is honestly.


#4

Sorry, take a look at: https://github.com/Formlabs/OpenFL

The Form 1/1+ can use custom resin profiles that are stored in an .ini file that is uploaded into OpenFL. We can create what is needed to better utilize 3rd party resins. This is tied to Form X that was just announced.

So if it is determined that the laser power is over curing the resin, we can just lower it. What resin profile have you used to get the results in the pictures? What profile has Maker Juice suggested to use?


#5

here is a quote from their product page
“This is our blend of SF made for the Form 1/+/2 printers. All prints using any of the colors we sell for the Form 1/+/2 should be done using the PreForm “Black 2” setting. For Form 2 printers, you must put the printer in “Open Mode.””

i am using
layer thickness: .1
material: black, V2 FLGPBK02) using the Formlabs settings figuring that should work the best.
support settings:
density: 1
Point-size: .6mm
Slope multiplier
base thickness: 2mm
height above base: 5mm


#6

I have had good luck mixing 1/2 MJ and 1/2 clear (formlabs resin) The results are a print that is more solid/ridged than the just using the MJ resin. Also, the parts are printing with better detail and with much less failures. This mix also post processes better with the parts not sticky like using MG resin alone. The red is not as red, maybe a little on the pink side. this is a little more economical than using just Formlabs resins.
Mike A.
Scout Design & MFG


#7

yeah but its still shelling out 150 for the FL resin. if i could test it with a smaller bottle then i would just not worth it for me right now, it is purely a hobby for me. so shelling out 150 for a litter that may just fail, i wont do


#8

Hello all. I just bought a 1+ and had the same issues with the exact same red material. Perhaps still having is a better statement. But anyways, I read here on the forum about boosting up the Support density so I tried it with success. I went from 1.0 to 1.5 for the support density and then played with the support point locations on the part. Also read that tipping the part to near vertical helps too.
I let the Preform software orientate the model but then went and rotated it to be more vertical. These three things made the part near perfect. I ran a layer thickness at 0.025mm because of the fine detail I required.
Hope this helps you.
W


#9

what material settings did you use?


#10

Material: Grey
V2 (FLGPGR02). i read here in the forum that if you have issues, try V2 resin.
No other changes.


#11

I wasn’t super impressed with MJ black here, found it settled too fast but did get some good results running it on the black setting instead of gray 1. It does beat up the tank quicker. In all honesty I think the FL resins will give you the longest tank life and print the most consistent.

I do wish they sold half liter bottles though. There are some projects I could a small amount and don’t want to store them for long period of times and also can’t always build in $250 inc tank on a onzie twozie project.


#12

Well my theory has proven a bust. Tried printing this morning and all I got was this…
I can print ok (not the best) at 0.1mm but this was at 0.025" since it was a fine detail object.
Not sure what to try next.
Is the resin old?
I’ve tried bumping the plate close by 0.2mm with no luck.
I tried changing to the V2 resin but that only worked once.
Frustrated a bit right now.


#13

Try a higher exposer like the Black setting or you may need to use the open mode and make your own exposure.
Big problem for myself with 3rd party resins is they are not optimized for the Formlabs printers and unless the manufacturer tweaks the resin to work with a specific setting then the user is left to fiddle and experiment. Though you may save money on the initial cost on resin you ultimately end up wasting resin and ruining tanks and wasting a lot of time.
For my self I consider 1 bottle of FL resin and 1 tanks as a single consumable and just the cost of doing business.
Some users are developing an exposer setting sheet for 3rd party resins but it is still in the works. This would be great for those that mix their own concoctions or use 3rd party resins.


#14

@Walter Come check out this thread:

I have added a tab in the master list for MakerJuice. Any data you have can be very helpful for everyone. Let’s figure this shit out man. Cheers!


#15

Ran out of all resin by this point. Ordered new MakerJuice WHITE resin. See if that improves the quality of the print. I suspect that the resin was old.
If that doesn’t work, I will have to bite the bullet and buy a new tray… Hate to buy one as I have three already… are they all wasted? Ugh. read somewhere here that someone can refurbish them?


#16

Got the new bottle of white resin in last night. Ran the exact same STL file on my Form 1+ with the setting set to WHITE and V1. Resolution set to 0.05mm. Came out perfect! Ran three more models and all are perfect in terms of not collapsing. Now need to work on the finer details of thickness wanted vs thickness printed. There is a difference. Not sure by how much but I will keep everyone posted.


#17

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