Hi Folks, successful prints of small parts

Projects & Prints
1

Very happy with my Form1!

Shipping was quick to Vancouver BC Canada, self-brokered to speed customs and saved $75.00.

A few tips to help beginners( my apologies if redundant)…

  • make sure unit is level, if resin is above the max level remove excess.

  • exterior bottom of resin tank to be free of any fingerprints or other markings.

  • interior of resin tank bottom and sides have a coating of silicone, use a very light touch if removal of undesired objects required.

  • if bubbles form in the resin tank, remove/pop between prints.

  • lightly run the supplied scraper with the grain of the aluminum build platform removing excess resin between prints, additional resin bubbles will form if not smoothed.

  • if a print is aborted there is a good chance the “jelly effect” will be present. While lightly moving resin around with the scraper, small lines will appear confirming the presence of the jelly effect.

  • if a model has tight features(drill holes, angles and such in close proximity) there is a good chance bubbles will form when the slow peel action is applied. Often the bubbles cannot escape and a dry cure event where the bubble is stuck on your print will occur. When orienting the model before applying supports, imagine the model attached to the build platform in the printing stage…can bubbles escape properly during the slow peel. Models printed without a support structure are most vulnerable to a dry cure event.

  • if the isopropyl alcohol bath does not remove excess resin, a cloth or paper towel will alter the finish. I simply re submerge the part into the bath and get the alcohol moving around rapidly …careful not to break delicate features from the part.

tiny parts I have recently printed…

good journeys to all!

Brent

Technology Salad

1 Like
2

Thanks for the info. This should come in use.

D Man:)

3

You mention “popping bubbles” on your list. Can you confirm that bubbles can cause build issues? I’ve ignored them , bu I guess the could get trapped between the tank bottom and build platform or part.

4

My first prints were gears. I face-planted the gear with the most contact area to the build platform and printed without supports. The first couple were smaller gears so I was not concerned with excess resin used when not structurally required. These smaller gears printed successfully. With a larger helical gear I included holes(creating a wheel with spokes effect) to reduce resin used. I face-planted the gear to the build platform and printed without supports. At each one of the holes there were cavities in the cured resin, all at the exact same height and all had the same characteristics…the cavities mimicked a bubble flattened on top and curved on the bottom.

When printing without a “base and supports” the first 25 layers have the same structure as a “base with supports”. The cavities began at the 25 layer height. There were no other problems with the print. I checked the mirror and tank-base for debris, if there were debris present it would create a hole throughout the height of the print.

-good journeys

5

Hi, Brent! What was the error/accuracy of the printed details vs intended? May you measure it with digital caliper or like this please?

Regards,

Andrey

6

I’ve noticed the bubbles more now with the grey resin (probably just that they’re easier to see in the tank).  I wonder if some moving air under the cover (small fan) would be enough to pop those?

7

Hi Brent,

We’re in Vancouver as well and thinking of purchasing a Form 1 printer.

Would you mind helping us with a sample print?

We’ll pay for your time and material, please let me know, here’s my email: sergey-at-textilettrimmings-dot-com

Thanks in advance

8

Sorry, there’s a typo in address on the post above, the correct one is: sergey-at-textiletrimmings-dot-com

9

Hi Andrey,

The first few prints were of gears, I compared a few dimensions with the design files and quit after the second measurement…we’re talking a difference in the ten thousands scale(example “CAD dim .2500”  “printed dim .2504”). The eyeglass magnifier dims(above pics) were much the same +/-  .0008. The gears were printed at .1mm res and the eyeglass holders at .05mm. When I first learned of 3D printing coming to the desktop I was excited for the technology but decided to wait for the accuracy to improve. When the Form1 appeared I quickly pledged. I received my printer(Vancouver,BC) within the first week of August, removed my first print and was completely amazed at the quality and accuracy…the Form1 definitely exceeded my expectations!!

good journeys!

10

Hi Sergey,

Sure I’ll help…sending you a reply to your email  sergey-at-textiletrimmings-dot-com

good journeys!

11

oh,forgot to mention…

regarding the accuracy of the eyeglass magnifier assembly above, I had designed the hole were the drill rod attaches with zero tolerance…when assembling, the drill rod was difficult to push into the hole due to the zero tolerance…once it started to enter it became a little easier til it stopped short of the intended placement, I had to drill a small hole to release the compressed air.