Has anyone tried illuminating colored resin from within?


#1

Hey, everyone, this is my first time posting but I am looking to see if anyone can help with a very specific instance.

I am working on a light up Batphone in miniature. I have the model and have been using clear resin that is painted with red enamel model paint on the outside only. I have lights inside the model and, when lit, everything looks pretty good. However the lighting feature can be a bit uneven due to how well I paint (or not). So I was thinking of using the colored resin.

I was curious if anyone knows how light might pass through colored the resin if illuminated from within? Or is the colored resin TOO opaque and solid to let any light through altogether?

I have also considered dying the clear resin post-print, and from what I can tell results seem pretty good, however the print still maintains a clearish look and I need at least a VERY mild opaqueness for the phone to look a more solid color.

I have attached a couple pics of the current model that has been painted and what it looks like with the phone not lit up and then what it looks like lit up from within.


#2

Just DYE the clear resin with RED pigment and it will be mostly translucent and to the desired effect. You dont need to do it post-printing if you dont want to.


#3

Yes I figured I could do this as well. Any suggestions which type of dye to use? I have RIT dye at home that I have used for other projects.

I know I can do this in an experimental way with the clear resin… but I was wondering about the results of the Formlabs solution with the color kit.


#4

RIT DyeMore diluted in IPA is effective on green parts (before post-curing), have not tested on uncured resin but I believe some on the forum have.


#5

I just thought of something. If I can get a reliable, even “frost” to the surface of the print, I would imagine the dye uptake would take on a slightly more opaque appearance. I have experimented with treating the clear prints with acetone or paint thinner before which seems to result in a frosted appearance. I wonder if I could do this, THEN dye.

Any other methods for getting a frosted look?


#6

I use FTD dyes without diluting and it works just fine. Even mixing! I even print successfully some amber antispill guards… ORANGE. Later, I realized every acrilyc on the form2 is orange lol but still, printed fine.

So is it safe to dilute dye? Does it just enlightens the amount of color diluted on the resin?


#7

The recommended way to use Rit Dyemore is to dilute in in water, warm it and put your clothing in (it’s originally made to dye nylon clothing). Read on the forums that it worked with IPA, which is good because boiling SLA parts could lead to warping.


#8

Yeah I think I am going to try this today.

Can anyone answer how to get the finish to be more frosted prior to dying? I want to do BEFORE post-curing because reports have been that dying the printed clear works best before any post cure.


#9

I use a fine glass bead blast to finish all my parts after sanding. It is exactly what you are looking for. For “A” surfaces, sand down to a 400 grit, then media blast with a fine grit glass.

You will get 100% perfectly uniform satin finish.


#10

Unfortunately I don’t have the capabilities to do this.

I did come up with a reasonable solution so far. I tried dying the clear parts with Cast n’ Craft resin dyes. These are meant to be put into clear resin prior to curing. Instead I just filled a cup with the dye and dipped my printed parts in. It works AMAZINGLY well. The parts took the dye in VERY well, VERY uniformly, and VERY quickly… as little as 5-10 seconds was enough, though I imagine longer might result in an even richer color.

Unfortunately the dyed resin was still very translucent and see through, which is what I was trying to avoid.

To remedy this I then sprayed the entire model with a “Frosted glass” finish type spray. It turned the model much more opaque without changing the color itself and overall worked very well.