The majority of my prints are for in house setups but sometimes I get a call to print something out for others.
I was wondering what a fair price per cm3 of the various resins?
I figured my cost of materials for the basic resins @ $0.25 per cm3
Thanks,
Ken
Don’t forget to charge for wear and tear on the machine.
Typical standard profit markups I have seen and used can be anywhere from 10%-30% you gotta make money right… sometimes for niche markets you can get away with much higher percentages. Always depends on demand and need.
Don’t forget that you either have to tell the customer that he also has to pay for the support material! So either you increase your rate acordingly or tell the customer that he has to pey for more volume than his model is using.
Majority of my parts are coin sized and smaller so I have been selling those $20-30 because it is added in with the rest of my tooling and set up for molding.
I am not getting into some larger items for sand casting and one offs for prototyping that are much larger. Taking a stab at $150-$2.50 per cm³? Don’t want to sell my self short or undermine the going rates but prices are all over the place.
I tried to charge by material after the actual supports are added and I know the ML needed and mark it up 30%. Then just a set cost per hour of work, always rounded up.
But the printer fails so much I just gave up trying to make a business out of it. Local businesses here that have a Form 1+ Charge around 600 dollars for a 10 cm print on the lower resolution. It’s hilarious.
Thanks.
What I ended up doing is taking the cm³ costs and multiplied by 3. This seems to cover material costs and if there is a failure + a small markup.
Basic resins come out to $0.75 per CM³ (1 ML) and the tough resin is $0.81 per CM³.
I bill my labor out separately but this gives me a good base for the varied sizes.
So far after service and changing to clear resin I have had 0 failures on my printer. Good clean mirrors and tank along with good orientation so has helped. I notice many people print their parts at low angles and I try to keep mine so the layers are the smallest and not 90° to the tank. Prints take longer but much faster than needing to fiddle fart with angles again and printing it over.
Typical orientation I use. I don’t like running the parts too flat to the build platform and try to keep the layers as thin as possible while using the fewest supports. Prints take a little bit longer but seem to work really well.
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